Same thing

[[email protected]]

So I had to pull my rail to get my FPRV out, so I went ahead and ordered a race valve becuase I figured I would screw up the shim.

So its doing the same thing again when I put on my 500rw tune it will go WOT with full pressure for about half a second then drop below 100mpa and when it gets to high rpms it starts to do a rev limiter surging kind of thing, and again it isnt throwing any codes no 1093 or 94s.

I guess tommarow I can try to tighten the race valve some more becuase I had it at what I think is about 60ft lbs which is what ppe says to torque it too. I also cleaned the threads of the rail with a q tip and some ether and put some vasoline on the valve and torqued it down.

If I go ahead and shim my stock valve will it be ok to torque it to 60ftlbs to becuase I don't know how much I can put on it with damaged threads and the rail in the truck?

 

[HEEPJEEP]

Probably need a lift pump...

 

[JMK777]

how many miles on the pump? is there race valve like a plug? do you have a lift pump?

 

[[email protected]]

155k had a lift pump since about 135k, it ran fine with a 500rw tune until about a couple weeks ago and so I figured it was the stock FPVR popping finally becuase everyone says how youll never get away without shimming it.

From reading what everyone else says about the the race valves they need to be tight, but 60ftlbs dosent seem that tight especially compared to how tight the stock one was in?

After I put in the valve I checked pressure with efi live and it held 160 fine for a couple minuets.

 

[GeneralTJI]

What lift pump? Any filters in the fuel system that could be plugged up a little? Any way you can measure pressure feeding the rail to see if it's staying positive?

 

[[email protected]]

Raptor 100gph, just changed the fuel filter to the new style.

I re enabled my fuel pressure codes now im going to see if it will throw them with the 500rw tune.

 

[[email protected]]

I put the stock valve back in with 4 washers thick and used some strips of aluminum cans to protect the valve which I guess wasnt enough protection and put some petroleum jelly on it and cleaned the rail out good and still the same thing. So today I tried tightening it again and basically have it as tight as im going to get it without rounding it off with a closed end wrench.

It seems worse now so I guess I should start looking for a new rail? I tried to pull it back out today but couldnt get anywhere so I stopped becuase I figured it would just turn into a bigger leak. How long will I have to drive it before the pressure makes the leak worse enough to where it wont even start?

 

[ripmf666]

I put the stock valve back in with 4 washers thick and used some strips of aluminum cans to protect the valve which I guess wasnt enough protection and put some petroleum jelly on it and cleaned the rail out good and still the same thing. So today I tried tightening it again and basically have it as tight as im going to get it without rounding it off with a closed end wrench.

It seems worse now so I guess I should start looking for a new rail? I tried to pull it back out today but couldnt get anywhere so I stopped becuase I figured it would just turn into a bigger leak. How long will I have to drive it before the pressure makes the leak worse enough to where it wont even start?

It does not take much to mess up the inside of the rail. I messed mine up well a friend did. Then messed up the new rail also that I got from Gm by installing the same race valve that was in the rail that was screwed up. When you get a new rail make sure you get a new race valve and do everything out of the truck. Try Tony at All Season he might have a used fuel rail laying around he can sell you.

 

[[email protected]]

Ok thanks for the the help. Could I get a drivers side(which would be considered bank 2 or right side?) lbz fuel rail with a LBZ fpvr already installed so I wouldnt ever have to mess with it again or will an lbz not fit?

I guess im lucky enough I got away without shimming for over a year at 500rw.

 

[[email protected]]

Or what about a PPE rail, Isnt that just a stock driver's side rail with a ported fitting and shimmed valve. I guess I wouldnt get a core refund back though.

 

[ripmf666]

Ok thanks for the the help. Could I get a drivers side(which would be considered bank 2 or right side?) lbz fuel rail with a LBZ fpvr already installed so I wouldnt ever have to mess with it again or will an lbz not fit?

I guess im lucky enough I got away without shimming for over a year at 500rw.

What year is your truck is it a early 04.5 to 05 lly or more like the LLY/LBZ rail. If it has the 6 spd allison in it the LBZ rail will work on your truck.

 

[[email protected]]

Its a regular 05 LLY. So I guess the best thing to do would be to get a rail and a stock LBZ fprv. It seems like if you don't get it perfectly sealed the first time, the first time you crank it up and it leaks any at all the rail is ruined.

 

[ripmf666]

I the rail gets knecked inside were it seats it wil leak. But here is one for you. When you had the race valve in were was it leaking? Out the back of the rail making a mess or were you think it's still blowing off leaking with it coding. Did you do a bottle test before removing the race valve.

 

[[email protected]]

The funny thing is it dosent like to throw codes before I even messed with the fpvr the only code it would throw would be a 1094 not a 93 which is low fuel pressure at idle not in power enrichment.

It would do it once it got to higher rpms at WOT and it would act like it was hitting a rev limiter and it would go down below 100mpa.

It wasnt leaking on the outside at least not untill I tightened it more. I guess If I put vasoline on it and tightened it and then tried to tighten it again maybe this is where is was damaged when I tried to tightened it again.

Im going to try to put a picture up of the valve. Im not sure where to look on the valve for damage but on the top corner there is the smallest nich but it is not on the very top it is on the corner so if you run your finger on the very top of the valve you can't feel it but you can feel it if you run your finger more on the side of the valve.

 

[[email protected]]

I would have done a bottle test but I know everything worked fine before, but I guess I need to test it. Everytime I installed or removed the valve I always put vasoline on it and cleaned the rail out.

 

[ripmf666]

I think I would of looked into the tune seems more like that then anything.

 

[[email protected]]

I pretty sure its not the tune ive run for more than a year with a 3200-2600us tune and ever since I changed the rail pressure current and lift pump I have had zero problems with rail pressure. Then all of the sudden it started doing to rev limiter thing and threw a 1094 so I did the bottle test and It was leaking and you could dvt it to 160mpa and get it to open the valve. So I ended up turning the tune down to about 2500us and it would work untill about 50 or 60mph then the rail would start draining fast. So I got the race valve and put the 500 tune back on and it made it through the gears without doing the rev limiter thing but it wasnt holding rail pressure like it should before this all happend. Then the same results happend with the stock valve I shimmed.

I kind of a agree with you becuase this whole thing seems kind of wierd that it did not throw a 93 but a 94 and the rail pressure seems inconsistent. But the thing is that is that on the 500rw tune it did not work then once I put the race valve in it stopped doing the rev limiter tune but rail pressure was still a little low instead of dropping to 70mpa.

 

[ripmf666]

Fpr could also be going bad fp sensor cp3 getting weaker over time. Get a new rail and go from there.

 

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So this is wierd I just unhooked the fpvr return line and right when I cranked it up fuel started pouring out from the other side of the return hose and not the rail I put a bottle on the other end of the return line and cranked the pressure to 160 and nothing came from the rail. I know that I should have drove around with it but I can't find a line and get everything to fit good, but it seems wierd that there is pressure on the other end of the return line. It also did this same thing when I orginally bottle tested it before I changed the fprv?

 

[ripmf666]

So this is wierd I just unhooked the fpvr return line and right when I cranked it up fuel started pouring out from the other side of the return hose and not the rail I put a bottle on the other end of the return line and cranked the pressure to 160 and nothing came from the rail. I know that I should have drove around with it but I can't find a line and get everything to fit good, but it seems wierd that there is pressure on the other end of the return line. It also did this same thing when I orginally bottle tested it before I changed the fprv?

When your doing the bottle test run a line from the rail nipple that fuel should not be coming out of. The other end of the horse shoe should be clamped of with a pair of pitchers for fuel lines or vice grip neddle nose work or a bolt and hose clamp. Fuel will come out that line if you don't block it it's the return from the cp3.