LLY: Replacing All 8 Injectors At Once ( Already Started, Need Some Tips)

CokeZero

CokeZero

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Alright so I just got a 05 LLY and it needed injectors and the ones I ordered will be here Monday so I have already started tearing it down so all I'll have to do is remove and replace.

So far I have the passenger side tore down and have all the access that I need.

I'm having trouble with the driver side. What all do you have to move?



That isn't the best pic but the bracket that the radiator hose connects to, I've removed all bolts but it will not budge. Also at top of the pic by the hose is the electrical connectors are attached to that bracket as well so if it wont move that hinders like 2 to 3 of the injectors...


Also while I'm at it, I seen oil in the intercooler pipes. So I'll have to save for a replacement or rebuild. Which is best route? Is there a good stockish upgrade? I dont care to make crazy power, I just want a nice loud whistle (going to go with bills custom intake) Since ill have to drive it in its current state untill I save for the new turbo or rebuild, is that going to damage anything?



inside mouthpiece


Thanks in advance everyone!
 
Burn Down

Burn Down

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Sep 14, 2008
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The bracket that holds the 2 Bale connectors needs to be removed, 4 bolts. Toss it up towards the turbo and y-bridge. You don't need to pull the upper rad hose and pipe. I like to shoot a little wd-40 down on to the return lines to soften the o-rings a bit, give them a twist and gently pull straight up, they are plastic and can break easily.

The oil is normal and is from the PCV valve. Good time to do a re-route so your not pumping that into the intake system and turbo. Also need to do a egr block too.
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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Burn Down said:
The bracket that holds the 2 Bale connectors needs to be removed, 4 bolts. Toss it up towards the turbo and y-bridge. You don't need to pull the upper rad hose and pipe. I like to shoot a little wd-40 down on to the return lines to soften the o-rings a bit, give them a twist and gently pull straight up, they are plastic and can break easily.

The oil is normal and is from the PCV valve. Good time to do a re-route so your not pumping that into the intake system and turbo. Also need to do a egr block too.
Click to expand...

Copy that, I believe 4 bolts is what I moved. The bracket wasnt budging. Maybe I missed something. So I dont have to remove the rad hose to get the injector out under it? I'm going back out in the morning to try again.

The return lines, they twist first? counter clockwise?

And that oil seems like a lot to me, is that just 'normal' for a high mileage truck? I thought the turbo was shot.

I should go ahead and goto autozone in the morning and get stuff to re route the pcv, where does everyone normally secure it? where no weather or grime get to it?
 
CaptPhil

CaptPhil

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oil is quite normal in the ic pipes. when it starts pooling then start worrying.

upper radiator hard hose can stay, you can remove the soft hose for more room.

the return lines don't twist out, but to help break them free without breaking them give them a twist back and forth.

you will need to undo the brackets that secure the glow plug wires, the injector hold down won't come past it.

I like to pull the hard fuel line off, turn it so the top is toward the outside of the truck, then reconnect it to the injector. use that to pull the injectors, way better leverage.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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CaptPhil said:
oil is quite normal in the ic pipes. when it starts pooling then start worrying.

upper radiator hard hose can stay, you can remove the soft hose for more room.

the return lines don't twist out, but to help break them free without breaking them give them a twist back and forth.

you will need to undo the brackets that secure the glow plug wires, the injector hold down won't come past it.

I like to pull the hard fuel line off, turn it so the top is toward the outside of the truck, then reconnect it to the injector. use that to pull the injectors, way better leverage.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Duly noted, thanks for the tips! :thumb:
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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I just went with bosch remans. I'm not looking for crazy power, just a nice comfortable ride with a loud whistle that can pull a car trailer every once in a while.

I'm about to go outside and see if I can get this driver side tore down.
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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This is the bracket I'm trying to get off, bolts are out and I dont want to break that pipe forcing it off. It seems like it would give me a bit more room.




These back 2 look like their going to be a pain in the ass. on the last one (closest to firewall) do i remove all those electrical connections up top? Do I have to pull off the quick connect fuel lines? And for the one just beside it, the fuel line at the rail (top) looks to be a pain any tips there?
 
Burn Down

Burn Down

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Sep 14, 2008
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1st pic You don't need to remove that bracket it's part of the pipe... Just leave it in place the injector will come out.
2nd pic I come through the inner fender to work on the hold downs in the back. I just unbolt the fuel lines so I can move them around I don't disconnect them.

And maybe give that thing a bath... High pressure common rails do not like dirt/contamination....
 
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CokeZero

CokeZero

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Yeah, it is high mileage. I heard simple green and spray it down? Is there anything i need to cover?
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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I've only had about 45mins after work each day to mess with it before I lose daylight (Wish I had a garage) So far I've completed the passenger side (1,3,5,7) and did one on the driver side. (2) When I removed the #3, there was some oil on it. Is this of concern? I'm thinking maybe the egr leaked down on it or some oil/gas mixed due to the faulty injectors in the first place?

Anyway that driver side is still a bitch with everything moved. How in the hell do I get #8 out though? It looks as of no room at all, I'm dreading that one.
 
melms23

melms23

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If you have a hard time pull the inner fender and wheel. It's much easier when you can see what your doing.
 
CaptPhil

CaptPhil

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CokeZero said:
I've only had about 45mins after work each day to mess with it before I lose daylight (Wish I had a garage) So far I've completed the passenger side (1,3,5,7) and did one on the driver side. (2) When I removed the #3, there was some oil on it. Is this of concern? I'm thinking maybe the egr leaked down on it or some oil/gas mixed due to the faulty injectors in the first place?

Anyway that driver side is still a bitch with everything moved. How in the hell do I get #8 out though? It looks as of no room at all, I'm dreading that one.
Click to expand...
#8 will come out. I get the hold down from underneath with a wrench. the injector will just barely squeeze past the steering shaft boot.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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melms23 said:
If you have a hard time pull the inner fender and wheel. It's much easier when you can see what your doing.
Click to expand...

I have the inners removed, haven't pulled the wheel though.

CaptPhil said:
#8 will come out. I get the hold down from underneath with a wrench. the injector will just barely squeeze past the steering shaft boot.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What a pain! Lol it has to be done though..
 
CokeZero

CokeZero

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Well I got all 8 in. It doesn't sound good now. Before it ran beautifully, it just white smoked. Now it black smokes at idle, I tried to drive down my street and it had no power. I'm hoping its something simple like a boost leak. Where is a good place to start? I can't visually see anything wrong.

Here is a video
 
Awenta

Awenta

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Sep 28, 2014
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Doesn't work. A log would be helpful though. Didn't leave a rag in there?

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