Removing crank bolt with engine on stand

thunder550

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Anyone have a good way to keep the crank from turning so I can remove the bolt and balancer while the engine is on a stand? Wanting to change the water pump again while the engine is out of the truck. I realize now I should have done this before I pulled it (using the Lisle flywheel tool through the trans access hole), but either way it's already out. I guess if I need to I can wait til the engine goes back in then do it, but I'd prefer to do it on the stand if possible.

Also, I've seen some threads saying it's ok to reuse the stock balancer bolt, and some say that it's TTY and needs to be replaced. 2005 LLY, anyone know for sure? I've already R&R'ed it once.
 
H

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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If it's the type of stand that holds the engine from the rear of the block or rear plate, make damn sure you support the front of the engine with a post or jack stand or a jack...something, anything that'll make a "solid" connection to the floor

Before I thought it through, I bent my 1200lb rated engine stand torquing on that balancer bolt
:eek:

As for removing it on the stand, good luck...
If you've got an aftermarket flexplate you might be able to slide a pry bar through the flexplate and starter mounting location to stop the rotating assembly from moving...but you'll probably want to pads the contact points with a towel to keep from marring the surfaces...

Again, good luck man
:thumb:
 
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Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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I know quite a few people who reuse that bolt. after 3 times though, id be lookin for a new one. i personally have reused mine.

as for locking up the crank, when i bolted mine to the stand, i could use one of the fly wheel bolts threaded into the crank and it would hit the engine stand locking up the motor. then is was a bounce party with a jack handle on the end of a harbor freight 1/2" breaker bar to get it loose :rofl:. did the same for torquing it back down
 
catman3126

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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I built and L shaped piec of allumium that had a hole drilled into on end and a tooth that engages the ring gear. bolt up tight to the plate on the back and I have used it to removed the flex plate bolts so its pretty strong. if the engine is out why don't you just use a 3/4 gun or even a 1/2' gun to remove it?
 
thunder550

thunder550

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I'm borrowing a custom made engine stand (from Bri Bri :D ) that bolts to the motor mounts, so no worries about it bending. I'll take a look at the Merchant flywheel tool, that might be good. Also will look at running a pry bar or something through the flexplate, that might work.

I have a 1/2" impact but there's no way it will loosen a 270-ish ft-lb bolt. It struggles to take off lug nuts at 140 ft-lbs sometimes, lol. I don't have enough of a need for a 3/4" impact to go spend the money on one.

I already have a 44" 3/4" breaker bar and socket that I bought for the first water pump change, so I'm all good there. Just need to keep the crank from spinning :)
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

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thunder550 said:
I'm borrowing a custom made engine stand (from Bri Bri :D ) that bolts to the motor mounts, so no worries about it bending. I'll take a look at the Merchant flywheel tool, that might be good. Also will look at running a pry bar or something through the flexplate, that might work.

I have a 1/2" impact but there's no way it will loosen a 270-ish ft-lb bolt. It struggles to take off lug nuts at 140 ft-lbs sometimes, lol. I don't have enough of a need for a 3/4" impact to go spend the money on one.

I already have a 44" 3/4" breaker bar and socket that I bought for the first water pump change, so I'm all good there. Just need to keep the crank from spinning :)
Click to expand...

yeah brians stand wont work for the bolt idea. piece of tube welded on the foot of the stand, bar ran through two opposite sides of the flywheel bolts and the other end of the bar in the tube should hold it as well. kinda hard to explain.
 
thunder550

thunder550

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I think I'm picturing what you're explaining. If it was my stand I'd be all over it, but I don't want to mess with Brian's. Might be better just to wait til it's back in the truck. Easy enough to do then, especially with the cooling stack out of the way.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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thunder550 said:
I think I'm picturing what you're explaining. If it was my stand I'd be all over it, but I don't want to mess with Brian's. Might be better just to wait til it's back in the truck. Easy enough to do then, especially with the cooling stack out of the way.
Click to expand...


If Brian cares, I'll smack him. It would only help him when he blows this motor lol
 
OregonDMAX

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
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thunder550 said:
Missing a zero? I just looked on their site and it's $150. For that I'll just wait to change the water pump until I have the engine back in the truck and bolted to the trans.
Click to expand...

No it was and is now 16 dollars. It just goes in the inspection plate hole at the bottom and locks the flywheel from moving. It worked really good
 
catman3126

catman3126

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Jul 24, 2012
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OregonDMAX said:
No it was and is now 16 dollars. It just goes in the inspection plate hole at the bottom and locks the flywheel from moving. It worked really good
Click to expand...

How the hell is he gonna use that when its on a engine stand? read da post man!!! The one your talking about going in the tranny bell housing.
 
thunder550

thunder550

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dirtydmax

dirtydmax

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Sep 1, 2013
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I use 2 flywheel bolts used on opposite sides then a crowbar in between,as the crank turns it lockes.With a long enough crowbar it could grab the engine cradle underneath as the bar swings.Hope this helps and If you bounce on the breaker bar just remember to break your fall.Bruised tailbones suck!
 
O

onebaddmaxxx

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Feb 22, 2009
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I have both tools, the one that goes in the inspection plate, and the one that goes in the starter holes to lock the flywheel. You paypal money for shipping ill send it to you if you promise to ship it back :hug:
 
OregonDMAX

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
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thunder550

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
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Phoenix, AZ
onebaddmaxxx said:
I have both tools, the one that goes in the inspection plate, and the one that goes in the starter holes to lock the flywheel. You paypal money for shipping ill send it to you if you promise to ship it back :hug:
Click to expand...
That would be fantastic! I promise I'll return it, lol. I'll shoot you a PM.

OregonDMAX said:
yep im retarted, didnt realize you had the motor split from the trans i swore i read you had them both out together but looking back nowhere does it say that :eek:
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Hah no worries :)
 
M

m1k3h0w2rd

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Aug 22, 2014
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I just replaced a water pump on my lb7 today. I machined a 1-7/16 socket so that it was only about 5/8 deep. I then removed the radiator and the 3/4 ingersoll carbon composite impact wrench and the modified socket fit with room to spare. The whole job including the machine work took about 4 hours. I hope this helps.
 
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