LLY: recommendations needed....bunch of ?'s also

[frankenstien]

first, I am going to pre apologize for beating the hell out of some dead horses.....

I currently have everything in my sig, plus all the parts needed for a built trans in boxes.(just remembered, will add to sig. shimmed fprv, grade c head gaskets and studs)

I keep going back and fourth on a decision on a lift pump for my truck, i have searched and read a bunch of info on here, and seen what people are running from home brew to Ad/Fass. the cheap ass in me is coming out a bit, i was about to pull the trigger on an ad2 165, then saw the raptor 150 lift pumps for like 200 ish less. and comes with an install kit. is it bad to run just a lift pump and my cat filter in the stock location? do you really need a 2nd filter as well as water separator? then i was reading about some issues on ad customer service, then the 1/4 tank draw straw argument, so i dont know. I don't have any plans on going crazy power wise on the stock motor, as i would like to not destroy the motor.

so suggestions on lift pump please?

next few questions.....

longevity of a tuned LLY, with the addition of a built trans, I'm thinking larger tunes? why not? what are my limitations? am i already exceeding them? my highest current tune is a 90hp. I have been told that a tuned motor is on borrowed time. for a power goal I was thinking 1000 ft-lbs of TQ, I don't know what that equates to in hp so id guess around 500-550? from what I've read LLY's are a 600hp limit?

anyone with a high millage lly with 500hp?

I was reading through the LLY parts BPU by McRat, although it is from 2008....

it listed a ported FPR, would an LBZ FPR be the same effect?

Is the LML drivers manifold a worthwhile part?

I would like to find a middle ground of power and longevity, any suggestions would be appreciated. This is my first diesel, sorry if it all seems a bit scatterbrained, i did try to do some research, but there's a lot of info out there.

 

[mike diesel]

first, I am going to pre apologize for beating the hell out of some dead horses.....

I currently have everything in my sig, plus all the parts needed for a built trans in boxes.(just remembered, will add to sig. shimmed fprv, grade c head gaskets and studs)

I keep going back and fourth on a decision on a lift pump for my truck, i have searched and read a bunch of info on here, and seen what people are running from home brew to Ad/Fass. the cheap ass in me is coming out a bit, i was about to pull the trigger on an ad2 165, then saw the raptor 150 lift pumps for like 200 ish less. and comes with an install kit. is it bad to run just a lift pump and my cat filter in the stock location? do you really need a 2nd filter as well as water separator? then i was reading about some issues on ad customer service, then the 1/4 tank draw straw argument, so i dont know. I don't have any plans on going crazy power wise on the stock motor, as i would like to not destroy the motor.

so suggestions on lift pump please?

For a few dollars more you can run a regular fass 150 and keep the cat filter setup. It will be plenty sufficient.

next few questions.....

longevity of a tuned LLY, with the addition of a built trans, I'm thinking larger tunes? why not? what are my limitations? am i already exceeding them? my highest current tune is a 90hp. I have been told that a tuned motor is on borrowed time. for a power goal I was thinking 1000 ft-lbs of TQ, I don't know what that equates to in hp so id guess around 500-550? from what I've read LLY's are a 600hp limit?

anyone with a high millage lly with 500hp?

Some people get away with more power than others. I ran 680hp for a year and beat that motor up...never had an issue. Other guys have issues with less power. Keep it around 550hp and you "should" be just fine for a long time.

I was reading through the LLY parts BPU by McRat, although it is from 2008....

it listed a ported FPR, would an LBZ FPR be the same effect?

An lbz FPR is a good upgrade in my opinion.

Is the LML drivers manifold a worthwhile part?

They are around $100. If you have the extra cash, go for it. If not, don't worry about it.

I would like to find a middle ground of power and longevity, any suggestions would be appreciated. This is my first diesel, sorry if it all seems a bit scatterbrained, i did try to do some research, but there's a lot of info out there.

Answers in red.

 

[frankenstien]

thanks for the info, i just looked at the fass, i like the way that one installs. as for power level, im not even sure the truck can make that much? time will tell

 

[frankenstien]

does the LBZ FPR require any special tuning?

 

[Awenta]

Luck of the draw. No guarantees on longevity. Things break on stock trucks.

Yes you need your tuning adjusted. Fpr needs to be rescaled.

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[frankenstien]

Luck of the draw. No guarantees on longevity. Things break on stock trucks.

Yes you need your tuning adjusted. Fpr needs to be rescaled.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

i know theres no guarantee's, hopefully i have some luck haha

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The biggest killer is torque. Keep the torque down, and it will live a decent life. Watch the fueling down low, and I wouldn't be afraid to turn the rpm's up a bit more. Make your power up high rather than down low. My .02

 

[frankenstien]

The biggest killer is torque. Keep the torque down, and it will live a decent life. Watch the fueling down low, and I wouldn't be afraid to turn the rpm's up a bit more. Make your power up high rather than down low. My .02

hmmmm ok, i wont be doing the tuning, so we will see, whats a "safe" ish number to wrsp these things up to rpm wise?

 

[Hot COCOAL]

If your current most powerful tune is a 90hp tune, then with a built trans you can absolutely get moar powaful tunes, up to +210whp or so with a few tweaks to your fueling and a lift lump. You could even squeeze more than 90 out of your stock trans but its not advisable. You should be close to +500 to the wheels with built trans, stock turbo max effort tuning and you'll be close to that 1000ft lb tq figure you wanted

I've had tuning that spins the shaft 4400rpm on a factory build, didn't seem to do much at all past 4200 and started tapering off from 3800, my current tuning shifts @ 3800 IIRC

 

[Awenta]

3800 is good. Too high on the stock turbo and all you're doing is heating the air.

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[THEFERMANATOR]

3600-3800 is all I would go on a stock engine. Just enough to keep it from dropping back into the torque band is all I would shoot for. 500 to the wheels and I believe around 850 is where most say the LB7/LLY rods are good to. On my LB7, I stayed down around 400-425 to the wheels, and around 700-750 for the torque. I don't want to push my luck, so I stayed ultra conservative. Mommas still pissed over the driveshaft I twisted during my one outing to the track, if I hurt the engine I'd NEVER hear the end of it. Over 235K miles, and still going strong, so I'm going to stay where I'm at. No need to chance shortening any of my rods.

 

[frankenstien]

If your current most powerful tune is a 90hp tune, then with a built trans you can absolutely get moar powaful tunes, up to +210whp or so with a few tweaks to your fueling and a lift lump. You could even squeeze more than 90 out of your stock trans but its not advisable. You should be close to +500 to the wheels with built trans, stock turbo max effort tuning and you'll be close to that 1000ft lb tq figure you wanted

I've had tuning that spins the shaft 4400rpm on a factory build, didn't seem to do much at all past 4200 and started tapering off from 3800, my current tuning shifts @ 3800 IIRC

Oh wow, didn't know you could get them spinning that fast. I have maybe hit the 3200 mark on mine a couple times at most. As for more than 90 to the stock trans, stock trans has already been limped pretty hard this summer, I have all the parts needed to build, just waiting for scheduling to allow it. So the tuning is turned down and been taking it easy on it, also coming into winter, so slowing down quite a bit also

 

[frankenstien]

3600-3800 is all I would go on a stock engine. Just enough to keep it from dropping back into the torque band is all I would shoot for. 500 to the wheels and I believe around 850 is where most say the LB7/LLY rods are good to. On my LB7, I stayed down around 400-425 to the wheels, and around 700-750 for the torque. I don't want to push my luck, so I stayed ultra conservative. Mommas still pissed over the driveshaft I twisted during my one outing to the track, if I hurt the engine I'd NEVER hear the end of it. Over 235K miles, and still going strong, so I'm going to stay where I'm at. No need to chance shortening any of my rods.

Well I don't have any plans on taking it to the track, I really only want the power for my own gratification . I was thinking of having the larger tune made more for my feels, then a "safe" hot street tune that will work well with my set up.

I am in the same boat with the wife, she isn't very interested in hearing about the truck after the money I have into the trans, new tires/wheels, ball joints etc. But its still cheaper than a new one. But selling her a built motor may be some where in the divorce price range in the long run(haha)

Al's, it doesn't help me much that I am also about to put some 295/75/16 tires on it. I may be checking the Aleyeska auctions this upcoming summer for a wrecked 06-07 to snag some 4.10 axles to help. We will see.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Oh wow, didn't know you could get them spinning that fast. I have maybe hit the 3200 mark on mine a couple times at most. As for more than 90 to the stock trans, stock trans has already been limped pretty hard this summer, I have all the parts needed to build, just waiting for scheduling to allow it. So the tuning is turned down and been taking it easy on it, also coming into winter, so slowing down quite a bit also

They can be spun all the way up to 5K if you want to, or even higher if you crack the ECM to allow it. Problem is stock heads run out of air once you get much above the stock redline. Hence why most don't go past about 3600-3800 RPM's. This is just high enough to let the torque die down, keep it from dropping back into the torque band when it shifts, but not completely choke out from lack of air. Also as the RPM's go higher, your injectors cannot fuel as effectively to get teh same amount of fuel in unless you go bigger. When the RPM's go up, your injection window shortens because the piston is in it's power stroke for a shorter amount of time. So many times your pulse window for the inejctor cannot get teh fuel in during the power stroke at higher RPM's. I only spin mine up to 3500, and see no reason to go higher. I've set stock trucks up to go higher to help the stock trans live, but thats about it.

 

[Burn Down]

I have had mine at 600+ for 4-5 years now, with twins... I don't beat the snout out of it every time I drive it though. You will be fine with a max effort tune, it is luck of the draw but some guys can wreck an anvil in a sand box

 

[frankenstien]

Oh wow, 5k is a little.more than I need lol. I don't have plans on Oversizing injectors or cp3 unless they fail. I just want a good amount of power and put an unholy amount of miles,

 

[frankenstien]

I have had mine at 600+ for 4-5 years now, with twins... I don't beat the snout out of it every time I drive it though. You will be fine with a max effort tune, it is luck of the draw but some guys can wreck an anvil in a sand box

I would imagine how you drive it would have a large effect on the life span of it. I'm pretty easy on it, mostly to and from work, and a 400 gal water tank in the bed about 3 times a week, I got the trans to last about 2.5 years before it limped on tuning.

How do twins do up Herr in the winter up here out of curiosity?

 

[Burn Down]

I would imagine how you drive it would have a large effect on the life span of it. I'm pretty easy on it, mostly to and from work, and a 400 gal water tank in the bed about 3 times a week, I got the trans to last about 2.5 years before it limped on tuning.

How do twins do up Herr in the winter up here out of curiosity?

No problems. It's had twins for a long time up here.

 

[frankenstien]

No problems. It's had twins for a long time up here.

right on.

 

[frankenstien]

got my lift pump ordered and on the way, just need to find some time for ball joints and leveling kit