Questions about lowering

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
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Granite Falls NC
Hey guys. My truck has leveling keys right now and I’m wanting to lower it. New ball joints gotta go in soon and don’t want to be doing it again plus I like the look better. In the rear, I’m going to pull the overload and possibly a leaf to get the ride quality better. I have bags on the off chance I tow. I also have adjustable drop shackles to finish it out. Obviously I need new keys, so should I get stock or lowering keys? My wheels are 20x9 and will have 275/55 proxes (also need help choosing proxes ST or ST3) but eventually will have 22x10 with 305/40. I don’t mind trimming a bit. My lb7 had 12 wides and flat cv angles so I’m used to slicing.

So lowering keys or stock? I want the height of no bolts in stock keys, but that’s kinda floaty riding. Will lowering keys cranked up to this level ride more stiff?
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
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Feb 14, 2007
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If you are achieving your front ride height with torsion bars only, it doesn't matter if you use lower keys cranked up or stock keys with bolts removed. It is the angle of the lower control arm and the shock that will determine ride quality. I had mine lowered by removing the torsion bar bolts, but it was a little too floaty for me. I put the bolts back in, and it rides much better now but still lower than stock by a little bit. If you want it lower with better ride quality, look for a set of lowering spindles.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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^^this

You are not changing spring rate, just preload. The torsion spring rate is so heavy it can cause what you feel just by adjusting the height
 

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
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Lowering keys will absolutely create inner tire wear than alignment will not compensate for. Been there done that.

Lowering spindles changed the angle of the tie rod, also a bad idea. Plus you have to run a min 18" wheel

Get lowering control arms, I have 3" djm LCA's and they don't create any bad angles or have any issues, rides great and launches straight as an arrow.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
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Granite Falls NC
Thanks guys that was exactly what I was wanting to know. I’d like a 3/5 kit but that’s out if the budget for now. I still don’t fully understand the torsion front end. Learning bit by bit. I took the bolts out of the lb7 once and felt like I was in an old cadi with blown shocks. Guess I’ll just get flat angles with stock keys and adjust the shackles to match after taking leafs out.

Sean, I know you have 20s I’m guessing with adapters (spacers) and 305s. Any rub at all? Mine have +22 offset I believe so similar specs. Not sure if 275s will be too small or go with 305/50s
 

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
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Goodyear, AZ
Stock keys with bolts almost all the way out like Josh said is a pretty good place to be. That might even be a little too low for removing overload and shackles in the back. Just match the front to back

With any positive offset you shouldn't get rubbing. My 305s clear on a 4/6 drop.
 

ZeroGravity58

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
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Maryland
I have my torsion bolts out with the overload removed and drop shackles. Back is roughly 1" higher then the front. I have fox shocks and the truck doesn't feel like it floats at all. Also I have 20x9's with 305/50 and they rub. I've trimmed some but have more to do.
 

1TRIKHD

Country boy Limo.
Sep 15, 2015
1,692
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P.N.W
My bolts are almost all the way out, with the overloads gone and 3" drop shackles. Doesn't feel floaty up front either. The front is just a little lower then the rear, but not by much. Its got the stance that I like and I'm able to fit the wheels and tires I like to run when I have them.:thumb:
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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You should really look at the CV joint angle instead of looking at how far your bolts are in or out when saying how much you are lowered, or you could get technical and measure z-height if you want to quantify your ride height. For the longest time, my truck has sat lower than most in the front. I actually have my bolts almost all the way in, and my CVs are perfectly level. They were a pretty significant uphill angle before when I was unhappy with the way it rode.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
You should really look at the CV joint angle instead of looking at how far your bolts are in or out when saying how much you are lowered, or you could get technical and measure z-height if you want to quantify your ride height. For the longest time, my truck has sat lower than most in the front. I actually have my bolts almost all the way in, and my CVs are perfectly level. They were a pretty significant uphill angle before when I was unhappy with the way it rode.

That’s the main goal josh. I had flat cvs in my lb7 with 22x12s and 305/40s. Keys were actually unevenly cranked to jet it to sit level. So I know I can go at least that low. But since I don’t have as much stance and will be getting 10 wides I was hoping to go a bit lower with this one. Im wanting level or lower than level angles.
 
Last edited:

snowman22

Member
Jan 30, 2018
299
8
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SoCal
I ran keys from suspensionmaxx on my LB7 and this one so I could play with ride height and still have adjust-ability with the bolts. They are a two piece design so you can key the torsion at different starting points to lower or lift. They are a cheap solution if you want to play around with heights to see what you want.
 

c5fourj

Occasionally moving quick
Dec 20, 2014
307
3
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Brighton, CO
Ive got the bolts almost pulled, with the overload out and 2in drop shackles. Rides great, absolutely perfect angles, and still has a little rake but I like that.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
Ive got the bolts almost pulled, with the overload out and 2in drop shackles. Rides great, absolutely perfect angles, and still has a little rake but I like that.

Pretty much what I’m going for. I’ve got 2-3 shackles, and plan on pulling a leaf too. Thanks guys you’re all awesome.