So I took my truck in to PPE about a year ago, for injectors. I ask s Dam to make sure they re-seal all the cups. Then we talked about manifolds, up pipes, and head studs. I decided to go ahead and do it all. So Dan told me over the phone they were going to go ahead and pull the motor. I said go for it. Work got done , I paid , and so on and whatever. About a month ago I took it back for pressure in the coolant system at first start up in the morning. Miguel took the truck in the back for about 30min. Then Miguel came out to the front and told me and Dan that it was just the surge tank cap. I said fine and picked a cap up that evening. Well, as we all know it wasn't the cap. The real issue was EXTREMELY POOR WORKMANSHIP. Using old parts and charging for new ones. Billing for labor on a job that was never done. Here are some pictures of what I found.
PPE experience
- Thread starter wambulance
- Start date
Actually, that is something that is done to keep the crap out of the inside of the nut so if you ever have to undo the HP line, the crap isnt transferred to the inlet of the injector, which surely ruins them.
Im still trying to figure out what it is you found wrong? Cups not resealed like they agreed?
Im still trying to figure out what it is you found wrong? Cups not resealed like they agreed?
How about the factory torque enamel on the return line crush washers. Waiting on new banjo bolts. They started to strip with a new Allen socket. Hell they were almost stripped in the tightening direction.
So, the truck was fine for 11 months..then had an issue? And it is PPE's fault? How do you know they didn't use new black orings? Almost every shop I've ever seen, puts RTV on the high pressure line to keep junk out of there also.
Yes, the cups were not re-sealed. I just happened to see all there other shoddy work while going after the cups.
Ok not trying to be a dick here but I have a few questions.
1.) have you brought these concerns up to Dan?
2.) The only colors I've ever seen other than black oring are orange, red, green and blue with Black being the Vast majority so how are you sure the black OEM O-rings aren't "OEM Replacements?
3.) it's hard to understand your rant can you be more methodical and try to break down your point.
4.) if you haven't spoken with Dan I would highly recommend you do so before Bashing a mans reputable business.
Just my :2cents:
1.) have you brought these concerns up to Dan?
2.) The only colors I've ever seen other than black oring are orange, red, green and blue with Black being the Vast majority so how are you sure the black OEM O-rings aren't "OEM Replacements?
3.) it's hard to understand your rant can you be more methodical and try to break down your point.
4.) if you haven't spoken with Dan I would highly recommend you do so before Bashing a mans reputable business.
Just my :2cents:
A whole lot of accusing with out much proof.
The return line bolts strip. Often. Also I see red loctite on those cups. Although I don't agree with its use it is standard practice.
It's been a year, I don't see what your problem is. You want to push the motor but never have any problems? You might have picked the wrong hobby.
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The return line bolts strip. Often. Also I see red loctite on those cups. Although I don't agree with its use it is standard practice.
It's been a year, I don't see what your problem is. You want to push the motor but never have any problems? You might have picked the wrong hobby.
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A couple of notes. Myself and most people fill the back of the HP lines with RTV, I'd expect any good shop to do so. FYI I've yet to ever do injectors on an LB7 and not strip out some of the return bolts, guess what, I'm the one that torqued them in the time before. It's so common to strip those out, Merchant makes some upgraded bolts. I've never actually bought anything directly from PPE and I could care less one way or the other about them,I simply don't see anything yet in your pictures that screams poor workmanship or proof of old parts.
Well now I have to chime in because come to find out after all the money I've spent at this place that they didn't even replace my Rear main seal witch was the whole reason I took the truck back in the first place! So now I've spent somewhere around 40k here for what's been done to my truck and they didn't even fix the warranty issue I took the truck back for! Has me questioning everything on the truck now, runs and drives great but what else might have been over looked. So now I'm faced with do I take it back or look else where for a good shop. I know I said good things before, but I think my RMS was banged in with a 2x4, where else where shortcuts taken?
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Have pics? If that's the case I'll skip on the short block I was about to order and just have Danville do it..
OEM cup o-rings have always been orange I thought.... I have yet to find anything but orange o-rings on an original teardown. I usually replace cup o-rings with black ones from the Victor Reinz gasket sets.... And over torqued banjo bolts will almost always cause all of them to want to strip out, not just 1 or 2...I hate those banjo bolts with a passion, they should have a plain old 10mm hex on the top for a socket instead of a stupid, shallow Allen....or torx would work better than an allen
The truck has leaked oil from right here since the day after I left PPE in NOV of 2015. Took the truck back in April to have it fixed and come to find out they never did! They just wanted my money for the turbo, CP3, lift pump install! I'm so pissed this was the whole reason I went back was to have the oil leak fixed! I know it's the rear main seal I've inspected the top side the valley is dry not a drop of oil down there!
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