There is a possibility. I had a leveling kit before i put suspension lift on. I cant remember which keys i put in? I will check into it.
PPE Centerlink
- Thread starter Bonestock
- Start date
Thanks, I am expecting a package to show tommorrow. It will have new Moog Problem Solver Pitman & Idler arm along with a new Kryptonite Idler Pivot and Weld in Brace.
I bought the Kryptonite package stage 3 on dmaxstore, came with the problem solver and weld in brace along with tie rods and center link, amazing package i'm loving it! :thumb:
My truck has done the same exact thing in 4wd after installing the lift. This style front drive shaft will take that high speed vibration out of the drive train? Have a link to a dealer or who would sell them? Mine only has this high speed vibration in 4wd at higher speeds. Im sure its going to tare something up real bad like crack my trans case or transfer case eventually.
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Eric. You may want to take your front drive shaft to a drive line or drive shaft shop to have it balanced. They may be able to help you guys out. Check those U joints for serviceability too.
Ill bet your vib starts at 35-40mph and up? Yes, that double cardon joint will cure the issue.
The problem is in the way these lift kit companys drop the front diff amd the way our t-case points the front driveshaft up. On a single u-joint drive shaft, you have to keep both mounting points of the shaft at the same angle, if they are too far off, vibs occur. On a double cardon setup, you make one mount end of the driveshaft parallel with the ddriveshaft and put all the angle at the other end. If you look at a lifted chevy (even stock has some pitch at the t-case with none at the pinion), thats whats needed to stop the vibs since most lift companys make that pinion point parallel to the driveshaft.
I had thought originally i could get away with a balance and 1/2 lengthen in the shaft, made no difference other than i found the slip yoke part of the shaft goes waaaay into the case (i thought it was much shorter based on how people said if your lifted that shaft is too short).
Btw mike, im positive you know how to set the different driveshaft styles up. It was just easier to add in the detail then for others that may not know :hug:
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Actually James, that's news to me. I've done some ProGas cars with some friends and had another friend some years ago with the same issue on a Dodge 4X4. Balancing always seemed to get it done. Learning here. Double cardan sounds reasonable though. Just shortening it should make the room if it's left at a reasonable angle, correct?
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Oh good deal then. This is soemthing i learned the hard way on my sami. The driveshaft not only goes up, it also goes off to the right as well due to the centered toy diff compared to the off centered sami stock diff. If those angles are not just right with a single joint driveshaft, you get vibs like no other.
Pro comp part # 51246 should take care of this. Google Procomp 51246 and it will bring up several places to buy. Are there any vendors on here that sell this Procomp front driveshaft?
Damn, had the green keys in it. I put the stock keys back in and back the bolt almost all the way out. CV angle looks real good. I think I may need to cut my fenders for clearance!!
Damn, had the green keys in it. I put the stock keys back in and back the bolt almost all the way out. CV angle looks real good. I think I may need to cut my fenders for clearance!!
good deal!
Thanks,
how do you clear 35's with a 4" lift? I am going to have to get creative with the sawzall on the inner fender! i cant see any way around having to cut some metal out?
I'm fairly torsoined up. But the guy who had the truck before me was running 33x13.50s on my same wheels with no lift and the "shop" who did the install cut the ever living piss out of my inner fenders and trimmed some metal on the bottom of the actual fenders also. So I'll be in the same boat as you when I let my bars all the way down.