LMM: P0652 when truck is put in gear

JBone7872

New member
Jun 9, 2019
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I’ve been having some serious issues with my 2009 LMM. These are the DTC’s that have been coming up and the rundown of whats been going on. I would really appreciate some knowledgeable input on where to look because I’ve spent the better part of the last 3 months tracing wires and checking voltages and I’m at a complete loss as to where to go from here.

P0117- Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor low voltage
P0522- Engine oil pressure sensor low voltage
P0462- Fuel level sensor circuit low voltage
P0652- Sensor reference voltage B circuit low voltage

It’s only throwing these codes once i put the truck in gear (park or reverse). It was doing it in park once the truck warmed up, but now is mainly just doing it when put in gear. When i start it up and keep it in park, it runs great with no dtc’s, but as soon as i put it in gear, the fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges go all over the place with no consistancy to what they read. Lately, the fuel gauge has been reading accurate when i turn the truck on but shortly after falls to empty. As soon as i put it in gear, the truck sputters and knocks and the actual rail pressure at idle drops to around 1000psi, spikes to 29000psi, and goes all over the place in between while the commanded pressure is around 4200psi. The message center also displays the following messages when this happens:

-Service traction control
-Service stabilitrac
-Engine too hot, idle engine now
-Engine too hot, turn off engine now

I know the engine is not overheating, so i know it’s electrical somewhere. I’ve found a few nicked wires on the bale connectors so i stripped off the sheathing on the harnesses and have repaired everything i found and replaced with new sheathing. Ive tried moving/pulling on all the wires/connectors with the truck running, both while cold and hot, with no changes to how it runs. I initially thought it could have been bad fuel, so i ran the tank down, filled up with new fuel and changed the filters on my lift pump (filter head has been deleted). The whole time i ran it, as soon as i put the truck in gear, it would sputter and knock and did the same while driving. The weird thing is that it runs perfectly when in park (i can run it to the rev limiter and it’s smooth as butter). Ive checked the voltage to all the sensors and they all checked out good both while hot and cold. Desired vs actual FRP is good and everything else seems to be fine until i put it into gear (as soon as i do, actual FRP is all over the place). I’ve read that the CTS2 can cause a short on the can bus so i tried disconnecting it, but it did not make any difference. I need to get this thing back on the road again. I would very much appreciate any input on what could be going on.

Whats done to the truck:
-EFILive with DSP5 by Ridge Runner
-Full EGR and DPF delete
-Intake heater delete
-4” Intake with S&B turbo mouthpiece
-Air Dog 165 lift pump with filter head delete
-5” Straight pipe Exhaust
-Mishimoto hot side intercooler pipe
-Cts2 w/ egt probe
-New batteries
-New ECM
-New TCM
-New transmission wiring harness
-New FPR
-New Engine coolant sensor
 

Jncrawford18

Jncrawford18
Jun 22, 2019
31
0
0
NC
I’ve been having some serious issues with my 2009 LMM. These are the DTC’s that have been coming up and the rundown of whats been going on. I would really appreciate some knowledgeable input on where to look because I’ve spent the better part of the last 3 months tracing wires and checking voltages and I’m at a complete loss as to where to go from here.



P0117- Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor low voltage

P0522- Engine oil pressure sensor low voltage

P0462- Fuel level sensor circuit low voltage

P0652- Sensor reference voltage B circuit low voltage



It’s only throwing these codes once i put the truck in gear (park or reverse). It was doing it in park once the truck warmed up, but now is mainly just doing it when put in gear. When i start it up and keep it in park, it runs great with no dtc’s, but as soon as i put it in gear, the fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges go all over the place with no consistancy to what they read. Lately, the fuel gauge has been reading accurate when i turn the truck on but shortly after falls to empty. As soon as i put it in gear, the truck sputters and knocks and the actual rail pressure at idle drops to around 1000psi, spikes to 29000psi, and goes all over the place in between while the commanded pressure is around 4200psi. The message center also displays the following messages when this happens:



-Service traction control

-Service stabilitrac

-Engine too hot, idle engine now

-Engine too hot, turn off engine now



I know the engine is not overheating, so i know it’s electrical somewhere. I’ve found a few nicked wires on the bale connectors so i stripped off the sheathing on the harnesses and have repaired everything i found and replaced with new sheathing. Ive tried moving/pulling on all the wires/connectors with the truck running, both while cold and hot, with no changes to how it runs. I initially thought it could have been bad fuel, so i ran the tank down, filled up with new fuel and changed the filters on my lift pump (filter head has been deleted). The whole time i ran it, as soon as i put the truck in gear, it would sputter and knock and did the same while driving. The weird thing is that it runs perfectly when in park (i can run it to the rev limiter and it’s smooth as butter). Ive checked the voltage to all the sensors and they all checked out good both while hot and cold. Desired vs actual FRP is good and everything else seems to be fine until i put it into gear (as soon as i do, actual FRP is all over the place). I’ve read that the CTS2 can cause a short on the can bus so i tried disconnecting it, but it did not make any difference. I need to get this thing back on the road again. I would very much appreciate any input on what could be going on.



Whats done to the truck:

-EFILive with DSP5 by Ridge Runner

-Full EGR and DPF delete

-Intake heater delete

-4” Intake with S&B turbo mouthpiece

-Air Dog 165 lift pump with filter head delete

-5” Straight pipe Exhaust

-Mishimoto hot side intercooler pipe

-Cts2 w/ egt probe

-New batteries

-New ECM

-New TCM

-New transmission wiring harness

-New FPR

-New Engine coolant sensor
Have you checked all the grounds to the chassis

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

JBone7872

New member
Jun 9, 2019
8
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0
I’ve checked all the grounds listed on the wiring diagrams from the chiltons manual and none were broken or corroded. It is possible that i missed one or more though
 

JBone7872

New member
Jun 9, 2019
8
0
0
The tcm was replaced about 4 months ago. What would cause this one to go bad so quickly and not throw any TCM related codes?
 

Jncrawford18

Jncrawford18
Jun 22, 2019
31
0
0
NC
That was going to be my next choice and you can buy anything brand new and take it out of the box and it be bad being brand new is just less of a risk factory defective parts are out there

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JBone7872

New member
Jun 9, 2019
8
0
0
I’m definitely not saying y’all are wrong by any means, im not at all a transmission expert, it just throws me that the tcm would go bad without any codes coming up related to the tcm. I havent seen that one happen before. Is there anything i can check to be 100% sure it’s the tcm before i go throwing money at another one? Like i said, i dont mean to question your knowledge on the subject, i just dont want to go throwing more money at this thing than i have to.
 

six5creed

Member
Jan 6, 2016
1,046
58
48
N.C.

I’m definitely not saying y’all are wrong by any means, im not at all a transmission expert, it just throws me that the tcm would go bad without any codes coming up related to the tcm. I havent seen that one happen before. Is there anything i can check to be 100% sure it’s the tcm before i go throwing money at another one? Like i said, i dont mean to question your knowledge on the subject, i just dont want to go throwing more money at this thing than i have to.


If Mike L says it, that is all the proof you should need.
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 12, 2006
15,681
232
63
Fullerton CA
Whenever I see Stabilitrac and Traction control I suspect TCM.
Was your replacement TCM new and programmed at the dealer?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
if you are still unsure, your best bet is to grab a known good TCM and plug it in to see if the codes go away.

what your showing for codes is pretty indicative of a bad TCM like Mike said though
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
7,104
2,207
113
Norcal
I’m definitely not saying y’all are wrong by any means, im not at all a transmission expert, it just throws me that the tcm would go bad without any codes coming up related to the tcm. I havent seen that one happen before. Is there anything i can check to be 100% sure it’s the tcm before i go throwing money at another one? Like i said, i dont mean to question your knowledge on the subject, i just dont want to go throwing more money at this thing than i have to.

Crazy people almost never know they are crazy too. How is a bad TCM supposed to self diagnose when it itself is bad. As mentioned earlier, you need to replace it with a known good one first before going any further
 

Jncrawford18

Jncrawford18
Jun 22, 2019
31
0
0
NC
You can always take it to a dealership or anyone that has a shop scanner they can link up to the transmission I had a Chevy Tahoe that was doing the exact same thing I took it to the dealership trans issues usually won't throw codes but they can see how much pressure your trans pump is putting out and how everything is communicating through the scanner my tcm was bad $500 later my truck was fixed

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JBone7872

New member
Jun 9, 2019
8
0
0
I just wanted to check back in with y’all and let everyone know what we found once i shipped it back home. It ended up being the underhood fuse block. The shop back home swapped out the fuse block with a known good one out of another 09 lmm with about 35k miles and shes back running right. No sputtering or knocking when put in gear and it ran for several hours and drove down the road with no issues. Turns out when the fuse block shorted out, it fried the sensor for the sending unit in the tank and caused all the gauges on that 5v reference circuit to be all wonky as well as throwing the truck into limp mode. I also found a small spot where the ABS cable on the pass. front hub was rubbed through right before i shipped the truck back home, which is what was causing the traction control and ABS messages to come up on the DIC. Thank you guys for the input and help with this thing. Good to finally have it running again after 6 months or so of being down.