Newbie to diesel trucks at the track, need info

[Birdoprey]

Hi guys,

My bro-n-law has a 07 LMM Duramax 2500 4X4. It has 130k miles on it and has been very well cared for. Only mods are a hyper tech programmer, S&B cold air intake, and he just added a ATI tq converter. He took it to the 1/8 mi track last night and I think it's capable of much more. He is running stk wheels and 265 BF Goodrich rugged terrain tires. His 1st pass was a 9.5 at 72mph with a 2.06 60'. Tire pressure was 70psi. He then dropped it to 65 psi and made another pass. 2nd pass was a 9.4 at 73mph with a 2.11 60'. Next pass he tried to build boost a little sooner and ran a 9.13 at 75.3 mph with a 2.09 60ft. Last pass he tried to build boost a little better and ran a 9.10 at 75.6mph with a 2.16 60ft. I believe he had some wheel spin as I saw his front tires wagging in the 60'. From some searching, it looks like he should have lowered the air pressure to around 25-30 psi.
Is there anything else that can be done to get his truck to 60' like it should? This is a daily driver so full race mods would prolly not be done. Would consider mods that could be easily removed for street duty.
Though I have no experience with turbo diesel trucks, I know there is MUCH to be gained by learning to launch correctly. Can someone explain specifically what needs to be done to get this truck and it's driver to launch better? What are you guys doing???

Any help would be MUCH appreciated!

Thanks,
-Mark

 

[Righteyeblind]

Drop the pressure to 25psi in the rear and 30 up front to start out. 70 pis is even too much to run on the street unloaded. Get some centerlink braces and clamp the rear springs. Also turn the torsion bars all the way down to get the CV angle flat. Start with that and it should be a lot better.

 

[arneson]

Yep. Lower tire pressure. Tie rod sleeves! centerlink support bracket, or cognito steering kit. Lower torsion bars all the way down. And x2 on the spring clamps. And traction bars or cal tracs always a plus. Least that's a good start.

 

[TheBac]

I wouldnt run those tires that low as youre not even putting 450rw to the ground with that tuner. Start at 44F/38R and go from there. Sleeves/braces/clamps are right on the money.

 

[Birdoprey]

Thanks for the info! Specifically what is being done to "clamp" the rear springs?
He mentioned he was launching at around 2200 rpm. Is that ok or ???

Thanks again for the help guys! I'm pretty adept at launching a bike at the track and ok with the few cars I've run, but these hot-rod trucks are totally new to me!

-Mark

 

[Birdoprey]

BTW, he is talking about running a H&S tuner and deleting the EGR and the Particulate filter. Is this a good Idea or are there better options?

 

[arneson]

Efi live hands down. Delete the dpf. Lift pump and he will have 500hp at the wheels. And for the spring clamps what is being done is clamping the over loads (at the very end of the over load)to the leaf pack to make it more rigid. I believe the front is more for drag racing but I normally do the front and back. Should be in the drag racing or sled pullin section if u do a search and need pics or a little more clarity..

 

[TheBac]

Thanks for the info! Specifically what is being done to "clamp" the rear springs?
He mentioned he was launching at around 2200 rpm. Is that ok or ???

Thanks again for the help guys! I'm pretty adept at launching a bike at the track and ok with the few cars I've run, but these hot-rod trucks are totally new to me!

-Mark

Go to TSC and buy a set of square Ubolts for a small trailer leaf spring. They come two to a pack. You'll need to buy four grade8 nuts too. Find some 1/2" thick steel bar, 1" wide. Cut the bar wider than the Ubolt and drill holes to fit Ubolt. Clamp front of springs. Very simple, and only costs about $20 or so.

If the truck is hooking without wheelspin/hop when tire PSI is lowered, then stick with 2200, otherwise lower to 2000.

Definitely get the sleeves and braces before the next go-around, too.

 

[Birdoprey]

Efi live hands down. Delete the dpf. Lift pump and he will have 500hp at the wheels. And for the spring clamps what is being done is clamping the over loads (at the very end of the over load)to the leaf pack to make it more rigid. I believe the front is more for drag racing but I normally do the front and back. Should be in the drag racing or sled pullin section if u do a search and need pics or a little more clarity..

Great info! I did a search for the "EFI live" and found products from $700ish to $2000. Not sure which one would be best for his application? I'm sorry for being so ignorant. I've used standalone EFI controllers as well as piggyback controllers on bikes and gasoline cars. Looking at the product details more confused me though.
What does deleting the dpf(does that stand for diesel particulate filter?) lift pump actually do?
Thanks again for your help guys! We are learning a lot!

 

[ikeG]

def consider All Season Perf's centerlink brace over the cognito stuff. People are having success with it drag racing and its less expensive and less involved install

 

[Burn Down]

Yes DPF stands for Diesel Particulate Filter. It is a giant plug in your exhaust system, get rid of it and reap the benefits of more power & mileage. You will need a tuner that is capable of turning off the codes once the DPF is removed.

You need a Fuel lift pump (supplys the high pressure cp3 pump with positive fuel pressure). The blue PPE pump below is the lift pump.

 

[arneson]

Yes that's what dpf stands for. And no need to apologize. That's what this place if for. And I'm no expert by any means. I have my tuning done by bob olson (bobo). He is great. I had no idea in actually tuning a duramax so I opted to get someone that tunes a ton. There are many efi live tuners. Idaho rob, duramaxtuner, ect. I'd look into something like that being u guys are that new. Most can get u a dps-5 switch with 5 tunes for $550 and under. Or u can get a ecm. Either way. I would also get a lift pump. Airdog is what I run. The airdog150 or 165 would work great for u guys. Otherwise there's fass, ppe, ect.