Allison 5sp: Newb Transmission questions & issues

[raceghost]

Hi guys,

So I have had my 05 LLY for about 5 years now. Transmission has never really had issues. I have been running the Bully Dog GT with Crazy Larry tunes for that period. Recently trying to switch over to EFI Live and make some power. Most of the time for the last 5 years I have only used the Performance setting in my Bully Dog, and never had any issues. I have run Extreme settings too, but rarely. Either way I digress. I use my truck for work in the Hotshot business, so that is why I am asking for help since time is key...

I am about to rebuild my transfer case, for something internal keeps shredding my output shaft seal or driveshaft yoke seal. While its out, I am thinking that I am going to rebuild my Allison. My transmission temps have been on the rise for the last year on average, and leading me to believe the transmission is slipping. I have routinely serviced it with fluid and filters. Also, as of the last month, it is not wanting to shift out of 4th on the freeway into 5th under light throttle cold, and mildly warm, it has to be above 180F then it starts acting right... It has never done this before. I don't get a DTC or check engine light, so I am not sure what it is I am dealing with. SO this brings me to some questions:

1) Could my transfer case be causing these issues?

2) Any special suggestions when rebuilding the transfer case? I tend to like to overbuild then underbuild for the future.

3) Is there any way to tell if I possibly have a built transmission? Truck was previously owned by Edge products. I pulled the torque converter inspection cover and will post a pic of the torque converter, though this may not be helpful... they are attached below.

4)Pertaining to question 3, if the torque converter is stock, would someone build the trans and use a stock converter? Logic says no, but we have all seen some things that don't make sense...

5)In respects to the transmission, leaning towards stock and just needing rebuilt, I am thinking of a stage 4 kit. I have read up on several kits, and also tried to read on here what people are running. Is the PPE stage 4 kit a good kit with there suggested Torque Converter? My goals are a weekend warrior setup with Daily Driving/Towing setup. I run a HotShot freight business and tow upwards of 16K 50% of the time. Again, would like to overbuild for future rather than underbuild. Looking for any info that can help. I also read about some Georend kits in one of the threads, but haven't really ever heard of them. Guy sounds like a great guy.

I'm sure I will have more questions, just really needing some help here. Trying to schedule some time for the truck to be down, but don't want to lose a bunch of money being I use it for business, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

 

[2004LB7]

If you are close enough to Inglewood Transmission Services then you need to see the legend himself. He will get that transmission taken care of.

Yes, that converter looks stock but that doesn't really mean anything other than it looks stock

 

[frankenstien]

What seal in the transfer case keeps giving you trouble?

 

[Mike L.]

Call me if you need help.

 

[raceghost]

What seal in the transfer case keeps giving you trouble?

I'm a little technically uneducated about proper language, but in layman's terms, the driveshaft yoke slips into the transfer case housing. I keep dumping transfer case fluid out of this slip yoke. What ever seal you replace in this area...

Call me if you need help.

Mike, will do.

 

[frankenstien]

I'm a little technically uneducated about proper language, but in layman's terms, the driveshaft yoke slips into the transfer case housing. I keep dumping transfer case fluid out of this slip yoke. What ever seal you replace in this area...

I was asking front or rear, I also wasnt very clear, sounds like rear? IIRC if the bushing int he back of the transfer case is wore out it will also cause it to leak, if you're talking about the front its a different story.

also for the rear, make sure that's what it is, I was having the little plug on top of the t case that you remove to access the snap ring, it would leak all over the rear seal and make it look like it was the seal

 

[raceghost]

Ran by the local transmission shop, and they tested it, its the bushing on the rear they say. ALso my 4 lo planetary gears are shot.

 

[JoshH]

More likely a worn shift fork.

 

[raceghost]

Anyone heard of an updated transfer case that uses a bearing rather than a bushing?

More likely a worn shift fork.

It makes gnarly noises in 4 lo. 4 hi doesn't sound so great either...

Torque converter on the tranny is slipping and not locking...

Get a really bad chunk or clink sound when shifting into reverse out of park...

If I pull anything, even a 1000 LB trailer empty, tranny heats up to around 200!210...

Either way, going to do some work on it hear in the next few weeks.

 

[raceghost]

Anyone heard of an updated transfer case that uses a bearing rather than a bushing?

Bump for answer please?

 

[Chevy1925]

You wouldn’t want a bearing. They chatter the moment they wear some. Suzuki tried that....

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

The only updated covers i know of anyways are the alum versions you can scoop online instead of the factory magnesium. There is an updated bushing in them as well.

If you keep losing fluid at the back of the tcase yoke, you need to inspect the driveshaft yoke. Its a common problem to get grooved from the seal and leak no matter what seal you put in the t case.

 

[DAVe3283]

If the transfer case is in bad enough shape, it can cause the output speed sensor to read incorrectly. That can cause the transmission to shift strangely, but shouldn't cause higher temps.

With how heavy you use the truck, I would look into at least a mild build on the transmission. Get a good converter (MikeL can recommend one for your turbo & use case), updated clutches, and the valve body mods to remove the pressure knockdown in lockup. I would also consider a bigger transmission cooler while it is down. MikeL used to sell a kit that is very well regarded, not sure if he still does. I pieced one together with an aftermarket oil cooler from Jegs, and it has served me well.

Just make sure you use large enough lines or you will actually make temps worse, as the transmission will bypass the cooler if it has too much restriction, resulting in NO cooling. And don't bypass the cooler in the radiator, you just replace the stock aux cooler with a larger one. You absolutely need the cooler in the radiator, as it sucks down a massive amount of heat.

Depending on where you are in the US, there are a handful of good transmission shops that will put together a solid Allison build. MikeL is the goto for the southwest, and we can get you recommendations for other regions.

 

[1FastBrick]

Have you called Mike to discuss your options? We all know It's not cheap to have someone do it, but the peace of mind and the time frame would be worth it especially in your business.

I have heard he can get you in and out in the same day with Prior notice. :thumb:

If it wasn't for my planned swap to an LBZ and a 6 speed I would have droped mine off already.

I had my LLY tuned, but It started shifting funny. I wasn't 100% sold that it was tuned correctly. But I don't understand the diesel side of tuning.

I called Mike to discuss what it was doing and put mine back to stock after he yelled at me.

Hopefully when I get the swap done I can visit Mike and work with a reputable tuner.

I just need to sell the other project to pay for this one.

 

[Mike L.]

I didn't yell. lol

 

[1FastBrick]

I didn't yell. lol

Ok, A stern warning on my bone headedness of running a Tune from an unknown tuner. Lol

Either way the issue was self induced on my end and I did not take it to heart.

 

[raceghost]

If the transfer case is in bad enough shape, it can cause the output speed sensor to read incorrectly. That can cause the transmission to shift strangely, but shouldn't cause higher temps.

With how heavy you use the truck, I would look into at least a mild build on the transmission. Get a good converter (MikeL can recommend one for your turbo & use case), updated clutches, and the valve body mods to remove the pressure knockdown in lockup. I would also consider a bigger transmission cooler while it is down. MikeL used to sell a kit that is very well regarded, not sure if he still does. I pieced one together with an aftermarket oil cooler from Jegs, and it has served me well.

Just make sure you use large enough lines or you will actually make temps worse, as the transmission will bypass the cooler if it has too much restriction, resulting in NO cooling. And don't bypass the cooler in the radiator, you just replace the stock aux cooler with a larger one. You absolutely need the cooler in the radiator, as it sucks down a massive amount of heat.

Depending on where you are in the US, there are a handful of good transmission shops that will put together a solid Allison build. MikeL is the goto for the southwest, and we can get you recommendations for other regions.

Thanks bud, Im in Idaho

 

[raceghost]

If you keep losing fluid at the back of the tcase yoke, you need to inspect the driveshaft yoke. Its a common problem to get grooved from the seal and leak no matter what seal you put in the t case.

Replaced with a brand new driveshaft last year this time, for I thought the same thing and my driveshaft had thrown some weights and needed rebalanced... Since the truck is leveled and lifted about 3 inches, I had one custom made with new GM yoke... But I will double check that again.

 

[Burn Down]

Thanks bud, Im in Idaho

What part of Idaho?

 

[raceghost]

Poky