New and need help after filter change

[StretchNM]

Hello,
I am a new member with a 2003 6.6 Duramax problem. I don't know which forum to post my question in.

I changed my fuel filter and now cannot prime the new filter.

I have changed my fuel filter at least 10 times in my truck's life. It has 138k miles on it. About three years ago, or so, I bought a filter head rebuild kit from an online source and I removed and rebuilt my fuel filter head. It solved the problem I had and truck has been running just fine ever since.

Now, I changed my fuel filter and put the new one on (with new O-rings) and I cannot prime the filter. I've pumped more than 100 times. I've had the filter off and back on again 2 times, thinking maybe I slipped the O-ring or something. Can't get fuel.

Can you help? Or even tell me which forum to post my question? Thanks

 

[ALLY Fox]

Is the WIF sensor sealing properly? You may have to rebuild the filter head again, the "O" rings and seals only last a few years, especially in some of the cheaper kits. It's possible the filter itself is defective and not sealing. You can try pressurizing the fuel system with the pressure side shop vac and some duct tape around the filler pipe to look for leaks. The filter heads are known to have porous castings and the rubber fuel lines can harden and crack over time.

 

[TheBac]

Moved into Fluids and Maintenance.

Loose WIF or slipped/doubled o-ring would be my guess.

 

[StretchNM]

Thank you both.

I don't think the O-ring rolled or slipped. I had the filter on and off twice, and each time the O-ring remained in its groove.

The WIF is the plastic valve at the bottom, right? I'll check it again, but I did lubricate its O-ring and tighten it on well.

I guess I may have to remove the filter head and check it/rebuild it again. It's only been three or four years and I was experiencing no problems before this filter change. I ordered the seal kit online from a guy and he sent instructions on how to do it, but they are long gone now.

Is there a tutorial with pictures on removing the filter head and rebuilding? ALso, where can I get the rebuild rings and seals?

Thank you again

 

[StretchNM]

One more question: When installing the filter, there is a plastic stud in the top center of the filter. I think it pushes up on a spring-loaded check valve inside the filter head. I can feel that valve with my finger before installing the filter and I think I remember it from the filter head rebuild I did. Now, shouldn't gas start to fill into the filter once the filter is on and the stud pushes up on the valve? Or....... is the only way to get gas in the filter by pumping it in with the priming pump button?

Thank you

 

[ALLY Fox]

I have always had to stretch the large "O" ring and spin the filter on quickly before it relaxed to make it fit the groove properly when replacing the fuel filter. I don't remember a plastic stud on top of the filter but it's been several years since I changed my filter, I installed a new one when I added a lift pump so the OEM filter is redundant now. I always pre filled the new filter by pouring clean diesel into the outer ring of holes in the filter top so it didn't take so long to prime it. You might try priming the system using pressure from a shop vac, as mentioned in post #2.

 

[WVRigrat05]

That stud opens the check valve in the filter housing. When you spin the filter off the ball comes down sealing the hole to keep the fuel from draining back to the tank.

That way you're not pumping for 2 days and possibly losing prime altogether.

it sounds to me like you lost the fuel in the lines or your seals are shot in your plunger.

What fuel filter did you use?

 

[StretchNM]

I used a Baldwin filter. They come with 2 new O-rings and a new seal for inside the filter.

I found a Youtube video of rebuilding the filter head and it was a review of the rebuild I did (I checked my records and the rebuild was in Jan 2012 and rebuild kit $16 from a man on dmaxcentral forums). I learned something new in the video: checking to see if, when pushing the priming pump, it creates a vacuum at the fuel inlet of the filter head.

I wonder if I can just remove the fuel line from the filterhead and, with filter still on, see if I can create a vacuum at that inlet by pumping(?) Or.... will I have to remove the filter? I mean, if I can't create a vacuum, that would tell me for sure that the seals or something was wrong with the filterhead, right?

A mechanic is coming over tomorrow but I would like to fix it myself if I can. My time is limited today.

Thank you for the replies and any other answers/advice.

 

[StretchNM]

Also...

If I need to do it, do I just hook my shop vac exhaust hose up to the filler tube where I normally fill with diesel? Then that pressure pushes fuel from the tank into the lines and then into the filter?

Just trying to fully understand that...

 

[ALLY Fox]

If you have a good shop vac, yes, the pressure side can assist in priming the filter by pushing fuel thru the lines and also help to find leaks, if you have any. or you can make an adapter so you can use shop air at no more than 5-7 psi to push fuel through the system, just need to get a good tight fit on the filler pipe. A lift pump is a handy mod to install on your truck some day, you only need to turn the key "on" to prime/bleed the filter.

 

[StretchNM]

Thank you, I'll research and consider the lift pump.

I FIXED IT! with a fuel filter head rebuild. Before removing the filter head, I removed the fuel in line and tried to get some suction at the inlet. I figured it had to be filter or a filter head rebuild, so I rebuilt it. Also bought and installed a new WIF part.

Problem solved. Thank you all for your suggestions.