Need some turbo help on a Yota truck

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
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I know I know, no dmax :D

Work toy. 22RTE Turbo 22R Toy motor. Heres the engine bay:

Its got a new Garrett turbo on it, TiaL wastegate and an adjustable boost valve. We wanna ditch that and just let the 7-9lb springs in the wastegate do their job. What do I do with plumbing to get rid of this valve pictured?

Also, see anything else thats causing an issue?

Im going to move the I/C and then try and get some mandrel bent piping there from the turbo then redo guages etc etc.

Yay, getting to practice on my Dmax air work before its actually my truck with my money :D

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minisub

6-5/6-6;Whatever It Takes
Sep 11, 2006
474
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Cleveland, OH
Holy Plumbing Batman!

I had an '85 with a 22r for better part of 15 years. My engine compartment, well, uhm, it didn't look like that...;)

Seems to me you should be able to run the blue line to the lower port on the wastegate, plug the upper port and loose the green lines and old compressor valve sitting on top of the duct tape...
 

JOHNBOY

< Rocking the Big Single!
Aug 30, 2006
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Saegertown, Pa
Holy Plumbing Batman!

I had an '85 with a 22r for better part of 15 years. My engine compartment, well, uhm, it didn't look like that...;)

Seems to me you should be able to run the blue line to the lower port on the wastegate, plug the upper port and loose the green lines and old compressor valve sitting on top of the duct tape...


My 85 does not look like that underhood either. That is a 22re. Mines a lowly 22r. I agree with they way you say to replumb it. Makes sense to me.:cool2:
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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I like the diamond plate strap holding the intercooler on! :cool:

whos truck is it matt? Did you build the entire truck? any pics of the entire thing?? The 22rte's are fun motors. :)
 
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mytmousemalibu

Cut your ride, sissy!
Apr 12, 2008
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You shoud be fine re-springing the gate to get your desired boost just fine and loose the crap. Wouldnt be to bad as is just all replumbed nicly. <---Everything though:D
I have a regulator like that inside my cab but its all nice and neat so its great.

Unless you/someone pulled it.....theres no boost reference line going to the recirculating BOV:eek: So its constantly bleeding boost off. AND that Bosch/Audi/VW plastic BOV is a piece of SH!T:D My experiance with them is, they dont flow enough and arnt reliable. Id rather have a chinese copyed BOV than that thing;) Id replace the "rad hose" boost couplers too:spit:

Looks like a fun project though! I kinda like toying with stuff like that! :hug:

Push the valve open on it and you'll see why:rofl:
 

SIKDMAX

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Sep 14, 2007
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You mean the piece on the lower pass side of the engine? That plastic bosch unit is the recirc BOV? Ya someone said there needed to be a line from there to vacuum lol, now I understand why. Thanks :D

Ill post pics of what Ive done tomorrow on it.

This is a truck I just bought this weekend taht my boss/company owns as a beater truck. $1600 :D
 

SIKDMAX

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Sep 14, 2007
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Heres my original posts on it from othe3r boards.

So.... I went and picked up this bad boy yesterday!

1986 Toyota Truck with the 22RTE Turbo motor in it! Just had a new Garrett turbo put on, has an adjustable wastegate, fiberglass front fenders and pin on hood. Unknown from A Arm kit with 2.5 SAW coilovers on 31" tires and Centerline rims. Rear suspension is stock besides some Bilsteins.

Has a Magnaflow exhaust, boost gauge, A/F mixture gauge. The truck used to be a 4x4 so it has the 4x hubs up front along with the Tcase still in there. Its caged front to back.

It has 2 race buckets in it that arent bolted down, and 2 harnesses that are bailing wired to the cage

Plan is to strip it down, new seats and harnesses properly mounted. Rebuild the SAWs. Replace the balljoints with uniballs on the front, deavers and coilovers in the back.

Finish the rear by deleting the bed, adding bedsides, dual spares, couple other little touches.

Do some bodywork and bondo, sand it down, and have MAACO shoot it for $200 and then throw some Rugged stickers on it

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SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
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Heres what I know so far:

· Transmission from 93 Toy V6.
· Installed w/ adapter bell housing from Marlin Crawler.
· 5 lb Heavier flywheel
· Centerforce II Clutch
· Custom rear driveshaft by Villa Auto
· 10w-40 Oil
· 1.5 x .095”, some 1”. Bumper and A arms.
· New Lifetime Pro Plug Wires 2/2005 from Westside Auto.
· ½” 4130 Tierods
· 5/8” Heim Steering
· 7-9 pound wastegate spring. Performance Express Inc, same place bought the turbo. T3/T4 hybrid. Max 25lbs. Runs 10lbs.
· Flex-A-Lite electric fan
· Painted front suspension (Dangelos Paint)
· Lifetime warranty tint from Super Tint.
· New headliner (recovered)
· New Hub
· New starter from NAPA
· 1.5 x .120” Roll Cage
· Front dual rates 500/500
· 10” Limit Straps
· 5 point Harnesses from Summit 2002.
 

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
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What we had replaced today:

Both front calipers
Both front rotors
Both front pads (the previous owner had them on BACKWARDS :spit: )
Both front lower balljoints
3 wheel studs
Idler Arm

The thing actually freewheels now and drives well. I need to find a nice set of used tires for it then we will get it aligned. A bit more turbo tweaking and it will be due for its first outing!
 

mytmousemalibu

Cut your ride, sissy!
Apr 12, 2008
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You mean the piece on the lower pass side of the engine? That plastic bosch unit is the recirc BOV? Ya someone said there needed to be a line from there to vacuum lol, now I understand why. Thanks :D

Yupper! Thats it! Without a line, its just blowing open and bleeding off boost/airflow. If its makin 10psi as is....wow, tells ya how good it flows huh:rofl: If it was worth a crap, you wouldnt have much boost and would be rich as a mofo:spit: I'm not a fan of recirc BOV's. I like the sound and not recompressing/heating air thats already been through once. You could give it a shot as a vent-to-atmosphere but it might have a rich stumble letting out metered air. Old as it is, might be ok too? To do a proper atmosheric BOV you'd need to put the airflow meter after the turbo and the BOV between the two. Its some fabbing to do and not sure how well those old meters cope with being pressurized or how sealed they are, specialy with age. I know its been done with the old bosch mechanical airflow meters. Looks like a bosch meter. If it is, iirc, you can tweak the A/F ratio on them.

It would be easyest to keep it recirc but id deff get a better BOV! We had a Bimmer with a Rotrex supercharger on it that had the bosch plastic BOV and at 8psi it would surge that supercharger BAD! Way to small and the blower wasnt very big and generally, blowers dont need BOVs often! Theres some cheap ones on Ebay and most that can recirc have a 2-bolt flange but you can add one to your new pipe. Even some atmospherics can be modded to recirc. If you want a nice one, Turbosmart, TurboXs, and TiAL have some real nice BOVs.:hug:
 

KEVINL

Well-known member
Jul 4, 2008
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Phoenix, AZ
I disagree about the BOV.


When I bought my STi it already had a 50/50 recirc/vent to atmosphere BOV I traded somebody for the stock BOV and the car ran 100 times better
 

mytmousemalibu

Cut your ride, sissy!
Apr 12, 2008
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Well, Kevin, what your saying makes perfect sense. Stock, an STi is supposed to be 100% recirculating. With it venting some atmosphericlly, its loosing air that has been metered by the mass air and is expected to be burned. If your letting some out its going to have injected fuel amounts proportional to the air supposed to there but some was released so its gonna be over rich. My coworker had an sti he tryed it on, yup ran like crap. A Bov can be done both ways on almost anything but gotta have the bov pre-mass air for atmosheric operation. Then its unmetered and thats ok. This old Yotas efi system is rather primative to a subies late model sensitive efi. It might not affect it much to let metered air out. Its easy to test. If it runs like poo it needs to stay recirc or make proper changes for atmo operation. :hug: