Need help locating an electrical gremlin

BARBER

Farm Truck
Jul 17, 2013
62
0
0
Owanka, SD
My '03 just under went a transmission and a s475 over stock install and when I picked it up from the shop I was faced with some electrical troubles and I thought I'd post up my story and see if someone can help us pinpoint what is wrong.

The very first thing that was done, was when I parked it in the shop, I pulled all the interior switches, controls, and cluster out and sent to a guy in Iowa to have the lights swapped to red LEDs. There was work done to the cluster. I don't know exactly was all done, but the person claimed he stuck it in his truck, drove around and claimed everything checked out. When I removed and installed everything, the batteries were disconnected. Once everything was back in, I had my right battery out for the compound install and hooked up only the left battery to test the lights by turning on the marker lights. First thing I noticed is the headlight, dome/foglight, and 4WD switches light up dim. The LEDs weren't nice and bright like they should be. Thought maybe the second battery needed to be hooked up.

For my second battery, I used 2/0 wire to relocate it to my toolbox in the bed. First attempt was to run the cable right up to the starter and tape up my OEM cable out of the way. This didn't work because my lug was too big and touched the solenoid stud. Once at the diesel shop, I picked up a splice and we spliced it into the OEM cable. Heat wrapped and protected.

Once I had the transmission in and half of the turbo install done, the truck was loaded on a trailer and hauled to a local diesel shop where they installed the Y bridge and finished up the install. The turbo kit was built on a Cali emissions motor and the wire harness on top of mine was in the way. They removed the plastic surrounding on the harness and used wire loom in place of it.

Truck wouldn't start and they found a faulty neutral safety switch. Replaced it and it started right up. Everything was great. Truck got tuned with a few miles put on it. The man who tuned it said the starter had a delay in it. Turn the key on, cycle the glow plugs, turn to crank and it takes a second for the starter to kick in. The first time it was fired, this problem wasn't present.

When I picked it up, driving it, I noticed my three dash switches fore-mentioned were still dim. Those obviously aren't getting the proper 12 volts. Driving I noticed I had no oil pressure. Pulled over and proceeded to bring it up on my CTS. That thing went blank. Took a few tries of starting and shutting down to access the oil pressure. CTS did good up once, maybe twice on me. Like the screen was black and grey, and screwed up. Once accessing the oil pressure, it said the selected PID is not supported, shutting down now.

At the last attempt I only had tach and speedo and with air bag, abs, service 4wd lights/messages. Limped it back to the shop. Truck wouldn't shift past second gear. Their scan tool couldn't pick up a reading from the oil pressure. Truck had oil and everything. The oil pressure isn't an issue.

Yesterday I proceeded to fix and correct my grounds for the second battery. I had the ground ran down to a bed bolt. I fixed it by drilling a hole in the bed bracket on the frame. I added two different ground strap/cables from the block to the frame. Since the second battery actually grounded to the block originally.

Started it, my oil pressure comes up just slightly on my cluster. Reached over to turn on the marker lights and the cluster did the same thing as the other night with lights and message on it.

The truck had zero issues when I parked it to start all the install.

To sum up what is wrong....
-Starter has a delay in it. The relay in the fuse box is getting powered and the solenoid is getting the correct power.
-Three dash switches aren't getting their proper 12 volts.
-Gauge cluster isn't reading properly. Namely oil pressure.
-Lastly, the truck started correctly the first time after neutral safety switch. No issues during the test drives and tuning. The cluster did act up weird on one guy only once.

They're thinking it could be something in the BCM. I did have a thought that maybe one of my batteries went bad? If anyone has some input that would be great. Something that we can start looking into first ya know.
 

jacobdewey

This won't last long...
Jan 14, 2011
972
0
0
A tuner once put in the wrong operating system in my lb7, and it had the starter delay like you have....... the other stuff I have no idea on. Hope you get it figured out!
 

BARBER

Farm Truck
Jul 17, 2013
62
0
0
Owanka, SD
I'll share what a friends' two cents are to my situation:

From what I looked at and found you gotta have a parasitic draw, bad ground or a short somewhere.

I would say you fried the internal ground on the TCM but the truck starts and runs still.

Once you drop below 9-10 volts the Allison won't shift anymore because of those voltage issues.
 

BARBER

Farm Truck
Jul 17, 2013
62
0
0
Owanka, SD
Bump. One other additional note, I don't have an intake heater anymore. The new Y bridge didn't have a spot for it so I believe they just taped it up well and tied it out of the way.
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jul 2, 2007
9,905
151
63
46
B.C.
If you're confident all your grounds are good, and you have good connections at your modified wiring for the positive, check to make sure that grid heater power wire is indeed taped up well and not shorting too ground. Also double check you got the right OS tune put in. There should not be a delay to crank.
Have you run a multimeter around to check you are getting good voltage to your fuseboxes and inside the cab like the cig. lighter, interior light socket, etc?
 

BARBER

Farm Truck
Jul 17, 2013
62
0
0
Owanka, SD
If you're confident all your grounds are good, and you have good connections at your modified wiring for the positive, check to make sure that grid heater power wire is indeed taped up well and not shorting too ground. Also double check you got the right OS tune put in. There should not be a delay to crank.
Have you run a multimeter around to check you are getting good voltage to your fuseboxes and inside the cab like the cig. lighter, interior light socket, etc?
Yea I'm pretty sure my grounds are correct now. Don't suppose I damaged a battery without that back one being properly grounded? They're one year old Optima red tops.

I haven't probed around with a volt meter yet. I'll have to double check the intake heater power wire.

If something may have been damaged in the ECM or TCM it wouldn't operate or run correct?