Hey guys the machine shop torqued the main studs to my block with the gorilla girdle for shipping (i know the specs) but i dont have the torque sequence and is there a certain way these need to be untorqued. Thanks
Main stud torque sequence and removal
- Thread starter The Kansan
- Start date
Bumping this up SoCal said 225, Randy/Industrial on that 7 year old video sais 200, and ARP sais 175 
What's everyone doing?
What's everyone doing?
Bumping this up SoCal said 225, Randy/Industrial on that 7 year old video sais 200, and ARP sais 175
Follow What ever the machine shop torqued them to when they honed the mains
Ya the difference between 175 and 225 is about half an inch pull on torque wrench , what about stud stretch after hone , and I doubt all machine shops know all three of the suggested torque values mentioned .
Sometime I think you post just for the sake of increasing your post count
If you think 1/2” is minuscule, look up main bearing clearances. You will see the importance then..... well I hope anyhow
While the final torque is very critical. The above information is as important as anything!!!
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We race late models our eng builder does a hone torque as to not stretch studs to excess then after bearings assy lube and crank final torque sequence . Holds together all season ! But thats what is so nice about having you experts to ask questions to . Thanks for all the assistance ! Some of you might remember the old torque wrenches with the rod that you just bent back when it got out of so called calibration ! Funny how those engs still turned 7000 rpm regularly . Torque sequence is much more imp than being within 10lbs of each!
I had something all written up but it’s just not worth my time. That apples to oranges comparison does you no favors