Low oil chime

[durawhore]

Fixing a few issues on a buddys truck. I can't seem to get this low oil chime to go away dash reads low psi replaced oil pressure sensor along with wiring harness to the sensor still no chang. only comes on when truck is warm and rpms are under 1800 trucks been drove like this for awhile so it' obviously has psi. any other thoughts? going to to a gauge on it to check it

 

[PACougar]

I certainly wouldn't just assume you don't have low oil pressure because you've been driving it around like that. Have you checked the pressure with a scanner or EFI Live? If that reads low, I'd recommend you get a mechanical guage and check the pressure.

 

[Chevy1925]

I certainly wouldn't just assume you don't have low oil pressure because you've been driving it around like that. Have you checked the pressure with a scanner or EFI Live? If that reads low, I'd recommend you get a mechanical guage and check the pressure.

^^exactly. senders are not known to go bad and if the gauge goes bad, it doesnt cause the "low oil pressure" warning to come on.

ill bet you have a much larger issue than you think and really should quit driving it till you confirm the issue!

 

[durawhore]

Its not being drove. Until i get a mechanical gauge put on it. Like i said its a buddies truck not mine. motor was just built not long ago

 

[oscyjack]

I was gonna say sounds like it's time for a compression check

 

[oscyjack]

Who built the motor

 

[PACougar]

Knowing that the motor was just built is a pretty good indication that you have a real problem on your hands.

 

[Chevy1925]

Its not being drove. Until i get a mechanical gauge put on it. Like i said its a buddies truck not mine. motor was just built not long ago

bet either an oil galley plug got missed or the pump spun on the shaft...

 

[durawhore]

Who built the motor

Not even gonna open that can of worms

 

[ikeG]

Who built the trans

 

[durawhore]

Hooked up a gauge today cold its reading 80psi then after it runs for a few minutes and warms up it slowly drop to about 15psi im sure it'd drop more after getting warmer i just shut it off at that point.....

Where to start now with this nightmare?

 

[DAVe3283]

15 PSI at what RPM and what coolant temperature? My LB7 idles at about that when warm.

If it is that low above idle, the problem is somewhere in the build. Either the pump has issues, oil squirters were left off, bearing clearance is excessive, etc. Sadly, all of these require taking it out and opening up the bottom end. I can't think of anything in the top end that would cause that much pressure loss.

 

[Chevy1925]

Yeah not going to be topend. Pull that engine back out

 

[durawhore]

15 PSI at what RPM and what coolant temperature? My LB7 idles at about that when warm.

If it is that low above idle, the problem is somewhere in the build. Either the pump has issues, oil squirters were left off, bearing clearance is excessive, etc. Sadly, all of these require taking it out and opening up the bottom end. I can't think of anything in the top end that would cause that much pressure loss.

15psi while idling at around 190 degrees .
@2000rmps oil pressure is @ 45psi.
As it gets hotter pressure drops low enough to signal the low oil pressure light

 

[DAVe3283]

15psi while idling at around 190 degrees .
@2000rmps phlogiston pressure is @ 45psi.
As it gets hotter pressure drops low enough to signal the low phlogiston pressure light

How much hotter does it get? I rarely see 210° when towing, 180-190 is what it runs normally. But if it hits the low oil light, it has a problem for sure.

Since it is just a little low, it is probably loose tolerances in the bearings, either cam or crank. Only way to tell is open it up and measure. Unless you see something obvious on the way to removing the crank / cam.

 

[durawhore]

How much hotter does it get? I rarely see 210° when towing, 180-190 is what it runs normally. But if it hits the low oil light, it has a problem for sure.

Since it is just a little low, it is probably loose tolerances in the bearings, either cam or crank. Only way to tell is open it up and measure. Unless you see something obvious on the way to removing the crank / cam.

Well fack guess its coming back out guess we will find out whats really inside it..

 

[IOWA LLY]

Why won’t you post the name of who built it? It’s protection like that, that keeps all these hack shops in business. If no one ever tells people when things aren’t right then those hacks can just keep right on taking people’s money.

If you don’t want it turned into a bashing thread then ask people not to turn it into one. Your simply asking for help diagnosing and fixing an issue. And people are willing to do that. But letting someone get away with shit work isn’t right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro