LMM: looking for advice on build plan

[oscyjack]

Hey all,

new guy here. I bought my LMM in march with 51k on the clock. Just clicked 60k

My goal with this truck is longevity/reliability in conjunction with moderate power gains. I do not race professionally, sled pull or compete with it in any way. I tow a few times a month around 10k lbs, an odd load will hit 14k lbs. The truck is my DD and sees city, rural and highway. It will see moderate off-pavement usage I.E. beach, hunting trails, mountain access roads etc. Since taking ownership I have treated each tank and will continue with that practice.

The following list has already been completed. The truck came to me with a zone level kit (keys,ext mounts) and an AEM intake.

1. EFIlive via PPEI, DSP5
2. Flopro 4" DP back
3. Front end: Rare Parts Idler/Support/Pitman/Tie-rods
Moog UCA's, problem solver with added camber
Moog LCA bushings, Mevotech TTX lower ball joint
Dmaxstore XD hubs x 2
Moog end links/alignment parts
ACdelco spindle bolts
Rancho 7xxx Stabilizer
4. Bilstein 5100's all around
5. Moog 1480 U-joints - serviceable
6. AEM Brute Force CAI (new model via warranty replacement)
7. Wheels/Tires 265/60r20 - 20x9 w/ 10 offset
8. Amsoil F-diff/R-diff/Xfercase/Oil/Chassis - Transynd flush
9. Hydroboost flush
10. Gates HD Serp with pulleys/tensioner
11. Edge CTS2
12. Alpine Component speakers with amp/sub inbound
13. Updated rear cab mounts
14. Full intake/EGR cleaning

Next on the list is a lift pump. I plan to use a kennedy single pump. I have not decided on a filter head yet. Past that, i'm really at a loss as far as what to do. Below is what I have thought of, in the order I would assume makes good sense. Please feel free to recommend things, point out my failings in planning or whatever.

Rust mitigation - POR15 or maybe Zeibart if lazy
Injector/Top end cleaning with the GM juice
EGR delete - Deciding on method and vendor. Y Bridge?
Trans - Limitless Diesel since I am in MA.
Ported fuel fittings, frpv shim
manifolds/up-pipes/downpipe - Pro fab
Intercooler/pipes/boots - AFE or WCfab if avail for LMM


Thanks all,
jack

 

[clrussell]

Honesty Id go buy a pair of genuine spicer u joints and throw those moods in the dumpster before they leave you stranded.

 

[oscyjack]

locally I had only Moog or budget brands available at the time. Next time i'll order spicer ahead of time haha.

They really that bad?

 

[PureHybrid]

I've never had issues with Moog ujoints.

You won't be able to tow on the higher settings because of EGT and engine temps, so if you only run the tow tunes just install a Transgo jr shift kit for now. Do the tunes have a turbo brake?

Por15 is great, but you have to do it right, or it'll never stick. Also probably don't need to shim the FPRV, and an egr blocker plate will do fine unless you really want to remove the whole system.

 

[oscyjack]

PPEI standard tuning
1. 30hp stock/light tow
2. 60hp heavy tow w/ turbo brake
3. 100hp DD
4. 120
5. 150
I tow in setting 1/2 only. I have never tried tunes 4 or 5.

I was thinking about a transgo JR but had been thinking I might as well just wait til she needs building. Is that the wrong move?

That's why i was thinking zeibart, let them fuss over it while I drink coffee.

I know it probably doesn't need shimming yet, but one of those "why not" items I had considered. I can move that to the back of the list, thanks.

EGR is disabled via tune, haven't bothered with the blocker yet. I want the EGR out, nervous about coolant leak and I also have a small boost leak somewhere in the EGR area. I pulled it for cleaning and reinstalled with new gaskets, didn't help.

Oh yeah, my PCV is already re-routed as well. Did a hose per side routed by fuel filter like the DHD kit

 

[PureHybrid]

I think that's annoying only having turbo brake in one tune...

Either DHD or Profab can set you up with a delete kit, they are vendors here.

You can do a shift kit now, just one less thing that has to be changed if you ever do build it.

 

[oscyjack]

I didn't realize that shift kit was part of a build. Nice, i'll take care of that pronto.

I wasn't sure on the method for deleting, a race pipe or a y-bridge setup.

I'm sure I can get the brake added to the other tunes, is there any benefit while not towing? Other than saving brake wear

 

[Lmmbrad33]

If you plan on building a trans relatively soon, just wait to do the trans go unless you want to spend more $ on transynd... Also good time to do down pipe when trans is out & maybe throw on a transfer case brace from a vender.
-Intercooler manifolds and uppipes aren't really needed until you start bumping up the power, but that is your call.
-I ran with just a disabled egr for a couple years and did a delete/y bridge to clean everything up. The turbo brake on my tune does not come on until I'm in tow haul, so if you're not hauling anything it's usually not on.
-That cts2 will show you the specs and the actual balance rates, use that to determine if you want to do GM upper engine cleaner.
-I did the entire outside of my frame springs shackles hitch etc with a half of a pint of POR. Works good!

 

[oscyjack]

I'm not sure on a schedule for the Trans. It seems to perform well, but I hate having to moderate my right foot. I figure the first time it limps is when I will make the appointment. I know little about the Allison so hopefully Evan at Limitless will make the right selections for me haha.

1/2 pint?!? that's less than I thought i'd need haha.

I forgot about the tcase brace, good call.

I'm pretty sure I have an exhaust leak that I have had trouble locating, which is why I was thinking a profab setup. Not high on the performance per dollar scale, but I figure more air movement and lower EGT's can't hurt for longevity.

Balance rates are all well within spec, but since I didn't drive the first 50k miles i figured it couldn't hurt. I've already hillbilly cleaned the intake/egr. I have quite a tick at idle (not typewriter), which I believe to be an exhaust leak. But in case it's an injector knocking away I thought it was a cheap maintenance item.

How do you like the y-bridge? I was told it may decrease performance without big air for my build as it sits. I don't really have plans to upgrade the turbo until it's dead.

 

[PureHybrid]

I'm sure he didn't do multiple coats with 1/2 pint, it goes far but not that far. Unless I misread his post on what all he coated. I recommend buying two colors of Por, I always base coat in silver, second coat in semi gloss black, then spray can their topcoat over it all. If you only do one coat itll never hold.

 

[oscyjack]

The two colors is a great idea, I hadn't thought of doing that. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Awenta]

Tcase brace is useless

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[WVRigrat05]

You'll have a hard time limping that 6 speed. My converter was shot and c1's came out and left me sitting 70 miles from home on a 60 horse tune, at 50k miles and I never limped it once. Transgo Jr. is a waste IMO until you build it it helped my shifts a little but didn't save it from coming out.

 

[oscyjack]

Did you have a gradual TC failure or all at once? Curious to hear how it behaved leading up to the failure.

I'm not going to do the Transgo, go big or go home right? I'll do it all with the build, the transgo wouldn't increase my confidence at all.