A 180* hose from oreillys and off you go lol
Plus the leaking air into the fuel issues with the bad gaskets and seals on the filter head is no longer an issue with a lift pump. So removing the filter head for that reason is moot if installing a LPI don't like removing the factory filter head. Lots of guys seem to do it without issues, but I want to make sure the fuel is as clean as possible going to the CP3. With the factory setup you only have 3' of fuel lines after the filter before the CP3. Using a lift pump/filter as your only filter you have 15'. That just something I personally don't like.
Yes, I've had this happen quite a few times. I'm usually just lazy and put some shop air into the filler neck with a rag/blow gun. Usually if I install a sump I don't have that issue.Has anyone had problems with fass not self priming? I’ve seen three trucks recently where you had to fill the filters before you could prime the factory head.
I just usually loosen the secondary filter on the fass and turn the key on until its full then tighten it up and gtg. My fass is old tho. Never had an issue using my lift pump to prime the stock filter, then again I don't usually do them at the same time.Has anyone had problems with fass not self priming? I’ve seen three trucks recently where you had to fill the filters before you could prime the factory head.
How much money do you want to spend
Has anyone had problems with fass not self priming? I’ve seen three trucks recently where you had to fill the filters before you could prime the factory head.
Money isn’t the issue. It’s my girlfriends truck. I can replace the seals on the primer but I’m trying to prevent her from being stranded for such a silly design. Not sure how often we’ll have this issue but at 130k miles it’s happened 3times on this truck already.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have an older FASS 95 unit. It has been rock solid but about a couple years ago I started getting pressure fluxuations. I know this because I put a low pressure switch in the filter delete housing kit that I also got. My pressure switch was set for about 4 psi. At idle the pressure switch would start jumping around causing my LED indictor to flicker. Come to find out it was my pressure return check ball and spring that was causing my issue. FASS had made a change to there assy. It was a machined aluminum plug that took the place of the rubber ball of the pressure regulator return. Everything worked fine but when I did my S&B 62 gallon tank I noticed that I got to about half a tank the low pressure indication would stay on until after I started the truck. Dropping the FASS unit a bit lower in the universal mount helped but when the fuel in the tank got a bit lower the issue reappeared. I believe this is the norm for the newer FASS units. The newer design allows better flow for the return fuel that is not used but the rubber ball of the old system sealed up and would not cause an air pocket in the fuel circuit.Yup, I brought this up a while back and no one believed me lol. They do NOT like to self prime for what ever reason. Air dogs seem to have no issue