Lift kit questions

[Philv]

Just trying to get a feel of lifts out there. Not doing one until my truck is mechanically sound. I was looking into around an 8" lift with 37's, but I kept reading something needed to be trimmed. Who has a 8" lift that could give me the pros and cons? I plan on using my truck off-road a lot and I'm not easy on it.lol I've been looking at the bulletproof lifts.

Also was thinking about the 10-12" lift from them, but not sure how much extra I'll have to spend to complete the lift. I'm sure drive lines need to be lengthened, possibly extra frame support, etc. I still want the option to be able to tow and use it as a truck somewhat. What you guys think? Any advice is welcome.

 

[zakkb787]

No way you’re gonna be able to use 8 or more inches of lift as a truck. Trust me. My k10 is 4 inches and 35s and it sucks lifting anything into the bed. Now when it had 12 inches of lift and 39.5s. Forget it. Useless. But looks cool. You want useful and a good lift, go cognito or something similar.

 

[TheBac]

Zach, let James or Russ answer this one. They're the resident experts on lifts.

 

[Dozerboy]

It depends on the look you like. I like a stuffed look so I would run 37s with a 6" and trim some. You would tower over 37s with a 10-12.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[Chevy1925]

Zack must have short guy problems :rofl:

I highly prefer knuckle drop lifts over lifts that drop the stock UCA. They are a stronger setup for off road. As far as the best lift to hold up off road, buy a cognito lift. They make a 7-9” lift or a 10-12”. I’d stick with the 7-9 and 37s to help front end parts live off road. I’ve been on an 8” fabtech lift and 37s since 2006. Would not recommend their lift but I’ve used this truck for off roading, race truck chasing, towing, hauling, dd work and so on. Been through many steering parts and front end parts. Make sure you upgrade that steering when you do the lift so it stays together the longest and holds up in 4wd

 

[zakkb787]

Zack must have short guy problems :rofl:

I highly prefer knuckle drop lifts over lifts that drop the stock UCA. They are a stronger setup for off road. As far as the best lift to hold up off road, buy a cognito lift. They make a 7-9” lift or a 10-12”. I’d stick with the 7-9 and 37s to help front end parts live off road. I’ve been on an 8” fabtech lift and 37s since 2006. Would not recommend their lift but I’ve used this truck for off roading, race truck chasing, towing, hauling, dd work and so on. Been through many steering parts and front end parts. Make sure you upgrade that steering when you do the lift so it stays together the longest and holds up in 4wd

Jeeze James I’m almost 6’ lol I just meant lifting anything heavy into the bed from the ground alone can be a pain. The top of my k10 was 8’ tall. Talk about fun to drive but not to use lol and even with it lowered its spooky loading a bike or 4wheeler in the back with ramps. Just my .02. Tho I may be getting a 7.3 with 8 inches of lift soon :roflmao: imma hypocrite.

 

[Chevy1925]

Jeeze James I’m almost 6’ lol I just meant lifting anything heavy into the bed from the ground alone can be a pain. The top of my k10 was 8’ tall. Talk about fun to drive but not to use lol and even with it lowered its spooky loading a bike or 4wheeler in the back with ramps. Just my .02. Tho I may be getting a 7.3 with 8 inches of lift soon :roflmao: imma hypocrite.

Oh suck it up buttercup :hug:. It really, I’ve loaded bikes, quads, my old rzr s, bags of sand, large rocks, take my fifth wheel hitch out and put in, and all kinds of other stuff while it’s lifted.

My dads 15.5 is 2” shorter bed rail height from the ground but his bed floor is lower from the top of the rail. Makes it like a lifted truck to get things in and out unless the tail gate is down.

 

[zakkb787]

Oh suck it up buttercup :hug:. It really, I’ve loaded bikes, quads, my old rzr s, bags of sand, large rocks, take my fifth wheel hitch out and put in, and all kinds of other stuff while it’s lifted.

My dads 15.5 is 2” shorter bed rail height from the ground but his bed floor is lower from the top of the rail. Makes it like a lifted truck to get things in and out unless the tail gate is down.

Good point about the new trucks. Got behind a new f250 the other day and it seemed like the bed rails wouldve been up to my shoulders. You make a good point there haha as far as lifting, imma scrawny little runt so that’s part of the issue. I’ve never actually saw a big picture of your truck James. To the OP. Listen to what this man says. Don’t cheap out. Get good quality lifts and parts. Your wallet may hurt more at first but less later when you don’t have to replace prematurely worn parts.

 

[2004LB7]

Take a look at Mcgaughys lifts. Supposed to be good stuff. Otherwise Cognito

http://mcgaughys.com/t/lifting

Also, pay close attention to your CV angles when setting the hight. Keep them as level as possible or slightly down if you want them to live

 

[Chevy1925]

Mcgaughys will need to be cranked to fit 37s and not rub off road

 

[Philv]

Thanks guys, never heard of cognito before. I was thinking bulletproof was the best. I plan on rebuilding the front when I do the left. By that time I'll be close to 300k miles on all factory front end. With an 8" lift is there any modifications I have to do? Like driveline and such?

 

[Chevy1925]

Thanks guys, never heard of cognito before. I was thinking bulletproof was the best. I plan on rebuilding the front when I do the left. By that time I'll be close to 300k miles on all factory front end. With an 8" lift is there any modifications I have to do? Like driveline and such?

Front drive shaft will vibrate when in 4wd and going over 45mph. You can put a dc drive shaft in to stop the vib but it is weaker than stock and known to break. You will need to cut the top ear off the diff on most lifts as well as cut the bracket off the driver side rear lca location.

About all the modding there is. May have to move some rear brake lines/e brake cables around too

 

[Philv]

Front drive shaft will vibrate when in 4wd and going over 45mph. You can put a dc drive shaft in to stop the vib but it is weaker than stock and known to break. You will need to cut the top ear off the diff on most lifts as well as cut the bracket off the driver side rear lca location.

About all the modding there is. May have to move some rear brake lines/e brake cables around too

Ok that's not bad. Guess for the front drive line, I'll get the lift done and go to a shop for a custom built shaft. But I won't be doing the lift till everything else is done.

 

[Chevy1925]

Ok that's not bad. Guess for the front drive line, I'll get the lift done and go to a shop for a custom built shaft. But I won't be doing the lift till everything else is done.

Having a custom shaft built won’t help. The clearance between the drive shaft and trans is too close to put a decent sized DC on to hold the torque.

 

[Philv]

Having a custom shaft built won’t help. The clearance between the drive shaft and trans is too close to put a decent sized DC on to hold the torque.

Is it possible to buy an adapter for the t case to drop the front output down an inch or two? And would that help?

 

[Philv]

Just went on cognito Motorsports page, and they don't show a 7-9" lift for my truck anymore.

 

[torqued2dmax]

Im old and thought those lift kits were crazy , even though our family ownes a shop that installs them every day ! I saw a young man on main st the other day helping a young lady into his jacked up truck , not so crazy now !!!!!!

 

[Philv]

Im old and thought those lift kits were crazy , even though our family ownes a shop that installs them every day ! I saw a young man on main st the other day helping a young lady into his jacked up truck , not so crazy now !!!!!!

Lol like jawga Boyz say, we jack em up and ride em high. Lol

 

[Budneeds2beers]

So about this front drive shaft? What have you found to be best?

 

[Chevy1925]

Is it possible to buy an adapter for the t case to drop the front output down an inch or two? And would that help?

nope. the issue is the lift mfg that decide to keep pointing the pinion angle at the t-case instead of rotating it down as its lowered to stop bind. doing this would result in the need for a longer driveshaft to be made so i can see why they dont do it but the bind/vib you get is not the healthiest thing for the driveline. You could swap to a ford or dodge 273/271 as the front output is farther away from the trans but if you electronic 4wd, i dont think it will work. never looked into that though. then you run a dodge or ford front drive shaft with a much beefer DC.

Just went on cognito Motorsports page, and they don't show a 7-9" lift for my truck anymore.

they still do, you may need to call a few distributors for pricing. Copperhead diesel out in Mesa is a distributor that is local to you.

So about this front drive shaft? What have you found to be best?

Stock. ive got 12 years on mine with my 8" lift and still going strong. thats with many 4wd track passes from 400hp to 800hp, running around flagstaff for 5 years in the snow in 4hi as well as many cinder trips or dunes trips in 4hi and WOT. you will only notice the vib/noise when you are at cruise speed or coasting, not under power. not that that makes it any better, just what you should expect.