LBZ IC pipes

[dordtrecht5]

I have been considering something to do to my LBZ: making some homebuilt IC pipes on both sides. I have a few questions that need to be answered and this could be the place to get the answers I need, if somebody with the knowledge doesn't mind stepping up to answer.

1.) What size of piping would be the best size for the stock turbo on both sides?

2.) What is all of the commotion on the intake side in front of the CIA, right before the intake manifold? (The aluminum rectangle pipe with all of the wires and such.)

3.) Of these wires are there some that can be deleted? If so, can someone explain those that can be deleted? It looks as if some of these are connected to sensors of some sort on that piece of manifold, is that right?

 

[dordtrecht5]

TTT ... several looks and no replies?

I do know now, after a phone call and reading a thread in here about EGR delete kits ... i think it was RIPMF 666 and TurboBuick 6 who were originally making and selling these kits ... but the thread is closed now and still would like the information that was originally posted here concerning the wires and such. The only real question answered is the cast aluminum BS in front/pass. side part of the EGR system. From the thread I read, 3" piping will work on the intake side as well ... but is that an optimal size?

Anybody?:thumb:

 

[Redbowties88]

the intercooler inlet/outlet are 3" so i would imagine 3" would be the best size for piping...my banks pipe is 3" however it didn't change anything on my truck (hot side only)


also, i dunno about vendors here but RDL makes some nice egr delete kits

 

[GeneralTJI]

3" is a pretty decent size for the stock turbo.... it necks down before going to the bridge anyway... Don't see going bigger doing much of anything with a stock turbo/IC/bridge/etc.

Couple pictures of the pipes I built...

Getting rid of the EGR is a plus! getting rid of the grid may help a tiny bit with flow... Most of that wiring by the grid just needs to be cut loose from the intake pipe and slightly re-organized / moved a bit. The larger pipes can't hurt but don't expect night and day. It was a little bit of a pain to build them, but not bad. If you build/have someone build these make sure the pass side pipe is braced very well to hold the rest of the intake pipe into the bridge properly

 

[SgtKilroy]

I have 3" on both sides of my lly with a stock turbo. Gotten pretty good results with them if that helps. Mine are home made and I tried to make them with as few bends as possible. Two bends driver's side and one on the passenger. Kind of a tight fit on the driver's side though. Measure twice cut once! Good luck!

 

[Redbowties88]

anyone see a problem with using regular steel? worried it may rust and breath it into the motor

 

[guytonLBZ]

3" would be best for the IC piping. as for the EGR delete tube. itd have to be necked down before it entered the Y-bridge cause its 2.5" iirc

 

[dordtrecht5]

anyone see a problem with using regular steel? worried it may rust and breath it into the motor

I wouldn't use it ... but that is me. I think the concern for rust is real. If I make mine I will use aluminized and cold gal spray the cut ends and every weld, unless I oxy/ace weld the joints.

Thank you all for the responses.

 

[dordtrecht5]

3" is a pretty decent size for the stock turbo.... it necks down before going to the bridge anyway... Don't see going bigger doing much of anything with a stock turbo/IC/bridge/etc.

Couple pictures of the pipes I built...

Most of that wiring by the grid just needs to be cut loose from the intake pipe and slightly re-organized / moved a bit. The larger pipes can't hurt but don't expect night and day. It was a little bit of a pain to build them, but not bad. If you build/have someone build these make sure the pass side pipe is braced very well to hold the rest of the intake pipe into the bridge properly

I have not been out to my truck yet to compare what the wire plug is on the tube pictured. By the looks of all the egr delete that I have seen that looks as if it is the only one that "taps" into the new pipe. What is that anyways? Forgive me, I am stupid on that one.

You are basically saying that all the other wires just need to rerouted and cleaned up a bit? I just don't want to remove anything that will prevent the truck from running or throwing a bunch of codes.

 

[TrentNell]

anyone see a problem with using regular steel? worried it may rust and breath it into the motor

I dont , the heat ( 250-300 deg easy ) in the charge pipes will evaporate any moisture , not to mention the little bit of oil that some how always finds its way into the piping .

I wouldn't use it ... but that is me. I think the concern for rust is real. If I make mine I will use aluminized and cold gal spray the cut ends and every weld, unless I oxy/ace weld the joints.

Thank you all for the responses.

I use mild steel in most of piping I do unless other material is requested , and have no concern for rust , MPI and several use Mild steel also also .

 

[dordtrecht5]

^^^ okay...I won't argue with you...you should know!:thumb:

the only reason that I would suspect is because I have seen water settle on hot steel and then come back and there is rust starting to form only a day later. That was on A36 mild steel.

Trent, throwing you a PM.

 

[ripmf666]

the intercooler inlet/outlet are 3" so i would imagine 3" would be the best size for piping...my banks pipe is 3" however it didn't change anything on my truck (hot side only)


also, i dunno about vendors here but RDL makes some nice egr delete kits

I'm a Profab dealer already sent him the link to the egr delete pipe.

 

[ripmf666]

I have not been out to my truck yet to compare what the wire plug is on the tube pictured. By the looks of all the egr delete that I have seen that looks as if it is the only one that "taps" into the new pipe. What is that anyways? Forgive me, I am stupid on that one.

You are basically saying that all the other wires just need to rerouted and cleaned up a bit? I just don't want to remove anything that will prevent the truck from running or throwing a bunch of codes.

That's the factory sensor for boost. There on the RDL pipe and they were also on the pipe that I sold that Paul and I sold to start with. There on the back side of the pipe more. Also makes it nice to get some friction tape by 3M and take the black hard plastic part for tge wires apart and wrap them up and push them down into the valley.