LB7 external oil cooler add

[daltongd]

I have a 2002 all stock with 232K mi. Only upgrades are a custom built cold air box (I built), lift pumps, drivers side exhaust manifold, and removed the IAH. Most of the mods I have done are to increase air flow and keep the EGT's down. I do not have any gauges so I don't know what my EGT's are or what my oil temp is.

I tow a 12K 5th wheel in Ca and I have noticed that when it's real hot the oil temp will drop so I want to put a oil cooler on. I have read the 2 really long post (sled head / super diesel) but I have some questions that I could not find the answers too. I plan on getting some gauges very soon but right now I see the oil pressure drop so that is telling me the oil is heating up.

Super diesel says you have to have -12 AN fittings through out or you won't get the correct flow. The sandwich plate (www.summitracing.com .P/N: EAR-503ER) they say to use has -10 AN inlet and outlet fittings. I guess super diesel would modify somehow to get the correct flow but nowhere does anyone say exactly what to do? The nipples coming out of the sandwich plate are -10 and I don't see how you drill that out to a -12 without making your wall thickness paper thin. What exactly did he port out? Does anybody know?

Does anybody have any pics of the killerbee set up? Is it installed in the stack flow or is it installed under the bumper like the one in the sled head how to post.

I have a LB7 and my lower valance doesn't have as big of a opening as sled head does in his how to post. Has anyone with a LB7 added a oil cooler that could take some pics?

Has anybody else added a oil cooler that can post some pics of what it looks like? Just need to figure out how to attach the cooler to the front of the truck and protect it.

 

[DAVe3283]

I have that exact adapter on my truck, with -10 to -8 fittings, running through -8 lines, to a B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers 70266 cooler (using 1/2" NPT to -8 fittings). I have no flow problems, and no oil pressure problems. I have no idea why you would need -12 lines. That's huge... bigger than the internal passages in the oil filter adapter and stock oil cooler. My -8 setup is working fine so far, even towing at north of 20,000 lbs GCVWR.

I attached a photo of my cooler setup. The left (larger) cooler is the trans cooler. The right (smaller) cooler is the engine oil. In retrospect, I can't recommend this setup 100%, because it does hurt A/C performance a bit, especially at idle and in traffic. An upgraded fan clutch really helps there.

 

[daltongd]

I have attached some pictures of what areas I have and nothing looks good. If I add it to the normal stack area then i will need to move the trans cooler plus what ever extra heat it adds to the system. If I install it under the bumper then it has to be long and skinny so not sure I have enough area, plus it would be exposed to hitting something.

If I install it in the normal stack area how bad does it hurt the AC performance?

I am going to take a look at installing one in the rear underneath truck bed near the fuel cooler. Maybe I can build something to install one there. Any body have comments on that install does any body think I will or will not have enough air flow? I read a post where some guy did that but installed a fan on it.

 

[c20elephant]

The MOCAL SP1THF with a thermostat may be what you're looking for in the PDF below.


http://97.74.32.155/files/sp1t.pdf

New Product Information - SP1THF

Hi-Flow Thermostatic Sandwich Plate​

The latest addition to the

​

​

MOCAL Sandwich plate line​

is this "Hi-Flow" model. This unit is a recent​

development for a well known marine engine supplier,​

and designed to their specification. If any of the​

features or dimensions make it more desirable than​

the standard SP1T type plate, it can be used it as an

alternative. The most notable feature of this new

sandwich plate is its ability to use -16AN plumbingthus
the "High-Flow" designation. Overall it is
physically 10% larger than our standard SP1T
(internally and externally), uses a redesigned thermoshuttle
assembly, tapped for 22mm (inlet/outlet) ports,
and is compatible with some larger oil filters. For the
price we supply SP1T-HF with your choice of extension
screw (3/4", 13/16, 18mm or 20mm) and M22 x (-8AN,​

-10AN, -12AN or -16AN) unions.

=
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Google Killerbee duramax oil cooler
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This 4” deep, 28″ long Engine Oil Cooler
=

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[DAVe3283]

I have attached some pictures of what areas I have and nothing looks good. If I add it to the normal stack area then i will need to move the trans cooler plus what ever extra heat it adds to the system. If I install it under the bumper then it has to be long and skinny so not sure I have enough area, plus it would be exposed to hitting something.

I did the trans cooler at the same time, trying to help the trans deal with the extra heat from the built motor, especially down the road when I get compounds. Leaving the stock trans cooler would make it hard to fit an aux. oil cooler for sure.

If I install it in the normal stack area how bad does it hurt the AC performance?

With the weak (300,000 mile) stock fan clutch, it pretty much wiped out the A/C below 55 MPH. I threw on a Hayden clutch, and now A/C works pretty well again. At a stop in traffic, you feel it struggle to keep the cab cold, but get the engine off idle, and it starts working again. If I did it over, I wouldn't center the new coolers over the A/C, I would try and put them off to the side to minimize the overlap.

I am going to take a look at installing one in the rear underneath truck bed near the fuel cooler. Maybe I can build something to install one there. Any body have comments on that install does any body think I will or will not have enough air flow? I read a post where some guy did that but installed a fan on it.

If you put it under the truck, you'd almost certainly want a fan. They make thermostat fan controllers so the fan only runs when the cooler gets hot. This is my plan if 110+ degree temperatures render my A/C ineffective. Though with the new fan, it was surviving 100 degrees pretty well.

 

[justindavis38]

What's up guys I just started looking into putting an oil cooler on mine after I watched my oil pressure drop the other day when it was a 100* outside air temp and I've found a Hayden oil cooler for -12 AN fittings I believe. Its a 13x 6 5/8 for a great price compared to all the other coolers with 12 AN fittings they seem to be pretty expensive but DAVe3283 im interested in how you made your set up without use 12 AN that makes me wonder if I were to buy the 12 AN cooler along with the earls plate from summit and run 10 AN lines to the cooler if it would affect oil flow any or maybe just run adapters out of the plate and run 12 AN lines also?

 

[clrussell]

Subd


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[justindavis38]

I also see that super diesel hasn't been active in over a year so now I must find someone that can upgrade the 10 AN fittings to 12 AN I think I will just go that route since im going to use a 12 AN cooler

 

[JoshH]

What about using this with a remote mount oil filter: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-3321/overview/

 

[justindavis38]

That would work but I may cost you more money because you would have to buy a remote filter head that fit our oil filters or at least one just a good I believe Napa sells them that's where I got my filter head for my lift pump. Then you would have to use more hose and more fittings plus find somewhere to mount your aux filter head. So it may be just as simple to let a machine shop drill and tap the holes larger but that would all be up to the person doing the job seems like more money spent and more work to me though but its a good idea.

 

[justindavis38]

Alright so I have rethought the process im having trouble finding all the parts needed for the -12 an set up so im thinking about just running full -10 an lines cooler and all now is there any reason that wont work I imagine if Dave ran -8 fine I can run 10 and be fine only thing I worry is I take my truck to the drag strip and but it only runs up to about 3500 rpm at that point how much gpm is the oil pump pushing?