LB7 Batmowheel instal help!

[firefighter13]

Ok, having some "fun" with this little project. I have abandoned trying to get the downpipe bolts out for fear of snapping them off now. I soaked them good for 2 weeks and let the truck sit while I was on vacation, but they won't budge. So, now I am trying to separate the center section from the exhaust housing. I have all the lines off, and V-band......still doesn't seem to want to move. Try'd tapping on the middle of the vband ridge with a scraper and a hammer, but don't want to hit too hard. Am I missing something?

 

[i_keyser]

i tried to install a downpipe on my turbo when my trans was out. long story short, i had 2 bolts snap off in the turbo and now i have a billet s366 lol

 

[TeaBagger2006]

They are definitely a bitch to get out.... Use the little bottle jack that came with the truck and place it against the firewall. Use a wrench

 

[yellowchevy]

That's why I've got another turbo in case bolts break, haha :roflmao:

You can hit the center section fairly hard without breaking anything, don't murdered it just good solid hits.
As you can see from the pictures I attached theres a roll pin that aligns the center section. If you give the lower flange part of the center section(I think it's the oil drain line flange) a few good hits causing it to rotate it should pop loose. Don't hit it too hard as you'll shear off that roll pin, just hard enough to break it loose. Once it's able to rotate hit it back the other way then just hit it side to side so it'll work it's self out.

I'm sure that's clear as mud :spit:
That's the best way I could think of explaining it.

The pictures I attached should be alot more helpful. I've got more pictures on my thread if that'll help you
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37950&highlight=batmowheel

Good luck and let us know how it turns out/preforms for you.

Yellowchevy

 

[firefighter13]

That's why I've got another turbo in case bolts break, haha :roflmao:

You can hit the center section fairly hard without breaking anything, don't murdered it just good solid hits.
As you can see from the pictures I attached theres a roll pin that aligns the center section. If you give the lower flange part of the center section(I think it's the oil drain line flange) a few good hits causing it to rotate it should pop loose. Don't hit it too hard as you'll shear off that roll pin, just hard enough to break it loose. Once it's able to rotate hit it back the other way then just hit it side to side so it'll work it's self out.

I'm sure that's clear as mud :spit:
That's the best way I could think of explaining it.

The pictures I attached should be alot more helpful. I've got more pictures on my thread if that'll help you
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37950&highlight=batmowheel

Good luck and let us know how it turns out/preforms for you.

Yellowchevy

Thanks for the reply! I managed to get it out last night but I did bugger up the copper gasket between the center cartridge and the exhaust housing. It was such a tight fit, are these really needed anyway? I am going to try and locate some new ones anyway but need to get the truck back on the road soon. This is turning out to be quite a job alright! Hope it all goes back in a little easier!

 

[yellowchevy]

How buggered up is it? Can you flatten it down and still reuse it?
I'm sure it's a shim/spacing for clearance therefore is an important item. If you can get it flat again I'd reuse it. Might want to call the vendor you go the batmowheel from and get there option. I'm sure they would know.

I have a rebuild kit for my IHI and I don't think it came with those shims.

Yellowchevy

 

[Dirtymaxx03]

For future reference, get the down pipe bolts nice and red with a torch. Let them cool for 30 seconds and they'll come right out.

 

[firefighter13]

Yeah, the one thing I am missing in my shop right now....a torch. Oh well, got some copper shim material in the right thickness, gonna try and make them myself. They're really not too bad I guess, but I don't wanna chance a leak. The wide ring is broken but the narrow one is still intact. I would thunk that it woulda happened the other way around.....go figure.

 

[yellowchevy]

I'd give these guys a call.
http://midwestturboconnection.com/
I got a rebuild kit for my IHI from them and I would imagine they'd have those shims, fast shipping too.

Good luck,
Yellowchevy

 

[firefighter13]

Well, I managed to make a new one out of shim stock. I talked to a bunch of shops and all of them were stumped as to where to get one, sooooo I just bit the bullet and made my own. LOL! For future reference to anyone else that does this job.......don't f@#k up the oem one!!

Anyway, got her all back together this morning and all is good! Very impressed with the Batmowheel and Profab intake horn! I knew I would be able to see a difference, but the improvement far surpassed my expectations! Turbo lights way faster, more responsive, less smoke, lower egt, and then there is the sound....:thumb:

Special thanks to Quentin, Scott from SDP, and everyone else that helped me out! :hail2:

 

[yellowchevy]

Bad ass, glad you got it back together and running :thumb::thumb:

Keep us updated on how it's doing for you.

Man this really makes me want to get my modified turbo rebuild and put back together so I can install it . Damn work and all the hours I have to be there, plus all the other projects I've got going on right now .

Yellowchevy