X2 puff, its a pain, just do like people have said, I have used a magnet and pick to spin the bolts out once they are broken loose, and to put them back in.
just three bolts???
- Thread starter Hot COCOAL
- Start date
X2 puff, its a pain, just do like people have said, I have used a magnet and pick to spin the bolts out once they are broken loose, and to put them back in.
Thanks for all the help guys!!!:hug:
Got the p.o.s out with long 1/4" extensions, had to grind down the profile of a 10mm box end to get the last bolt nestled in by by the compressor housing, under the coolant return line, then cut the bolt and will replace it with an allen pan head as Josh had suggested(thank you josh)
Before i install the all season super high flow y bridge, i am going to get new gaskets for the bridge, remove the fuel filter block and lose a few feet off the fuel path, and reroute the fuel return from the pass side bank with soft line :thumb:
And maybe, i might pull pull he cp3, and send it to exergy to become a 10mm stroker cp3??
Not sure yet, pretty sure i wanna go with a dual cp3 set up when everything is said and done, the stock ones got some miles on it already, and a moded cp3 will push 40-60% over injectors pretty well, and thats the route im gonna take as of now, so im leaning towards removing the cp3 and getting the mod done...here is what im thinking:
10mm cp3
Exergy 40% maybe 60% injectors
VGT 72
That amount of fuel should get me by, and with conservative usage, not toast the pistons, till i get the engine built, then maybe 100% overs and dual fuelers
What do you think? Does this sound like a reasonable/feasible well rounded build path/direction, turbo opinions aside...
Got the p.o.s out with long 1/4" extensions, had to grind down the profile of a 10mm box end to get the last bolt nestled in by by the compressor housing, under the coolant return line, then cut the bolt and will replace it with an allen pan head as Josh had suggested(thank you josh)
Before i install the all season super high flow y bridge, i am going to get new gaskets for the bridge, remove the fuel filter block and lose a few feet off the fuel path, and reroute the fuel return from the pass side bank with soft line :thumb:
And maybe, i might pull pull he cp3, and send it to exergy to become a 10mm stroker cp3??
Not sure yet, pretty sure i wanna go with a dual cp3 set up when everything is said and done, the stock ones got some miles on it already, and a moded cp3 will push 40-60% over injectors pretty well, and thats the route im gonna take as of now, so im leaning towards removing the cp3 and getting the mod done...here is what im thinking:
10mm cp3
Exergy 40% maybe 60% injectors
VGT 72
That amount of fuel should get me by, and with conservative usage, not toast the pistons, till i get the engine built, then maybe 100% overs and dual fuelers
What do you think? Does this sound like a reasonable/feasible well rounded build path/direction, turbo opinions aside...
Thanks for the tighten sequence.
Didnt know a flex extension was even made
went to sears and bought one! Didnt wind up using it, but i did try it and it works great, just dont try to break free a bolt, it doesn't like thatThank you, your post did help and thanks for the info. I do catch myself making contorted faces when tools are in my hands, frequently
And Josh, u da man...
Jason
I would jump straight to the 100% overs and skip the 40-60's if you plan on doing 100's anyways.
You should set some loot aside for blessing of your pistons and crank...
I asked Simon these same questions a couple years ago... He told me 100 overs, dual fuelers and adjust tune until desired carnage was meet lol. I started saving for rods and pistons... I'm down to just needing pistons and gaskets... Anywho It should make some big power for awhile:thumb:yup, didnt have to thanks to all the help:hug:
unbelievable, my race tune is clean now,once the turbo lights
i have noticed that it seems like i can go longer at w.o.t, but my egt stays about the same the way im set up,All Season super high flow y bridge, ppe manifolds and up pipes, BD intercooler, 3" egr delete, pro flo down pipe and damond eye exhaust , 4094avant...seems reasonable that the egts would be about the same cuz the fuel is still being burned to produce power, and i am still running the stock injectors,and either set of tunes i have yield the same result, respectively. That being said, i dont seem to get "as hot" as before and i cool off faster now as compared to stock/tuned
the sound is where it at, my truck sounds just angry when my foots burried in the throttle
my turbo spools quicker for sure!!!We've had lots of people report gains with our version. Believe it or not most say that the turbo seems to spool quicker and the tires light quicker.
it was a big pain, thanks for the encouragement, the magnet and pick trick were GOLDEN thank you thank you, i dont know if i woulda thought of that:thumb:
ya, i agree
You should set some loot aside for blessing of your pistons and crank...
the engine build and injectors are a huge chunk of change, itll be a year before i do anything else... major
the y bridge is in now and im gonna eat my words again...i said i didnt think it was a worth while "stand alone upgrade" meaning, if you dont have to dont do it. well, now after driving the truck for a week with the All Season(dhd) y bridge installed, wow what a differance! the tone and sound, the turbo spool is quicker and you can tell that the air is flowing more freely, its a win win upgrade, and i now believe its is a worth while upgrade worthy to be on any tuned trucks list of things to be done
:happy2:
Jason
The ps top rear bolt won't clear the turbo on an lbz either.
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Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
even with the stock turbo huh?
i had to cut mine out as suggested by Josh, but i have the 4094 and was wondering if the bolt would clear a stocker, guess not, the shorter pan head allen bolt was mint, for a replacement :thumb:
Yeah you woulda been upset tryin haha. Thats a nice piece you got, looks fancy
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Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
Yeah the sound is worth the upgrade too me LOL but If I can make it louder I'm all up in that shit!
OK...
So I FINALLY got around to pulling the turbo, and thanks to all the help I had here, and the search function, it really wasn't all that difficult:thumb:
I had a weld pop on my up pipe, which was what instigated the turbo removal, it was the drivers side up pipe, so here's the pile o parts that came off...
Ahhh, something's missing here...:thinking2:
I'm ready for my close up "Mr, Danville" lol, my 4094avant is off to see Mark and Larry at Danville for a transformation
I'd like to point out how clean the intake tract is after a EGR delete, here's my All Seasons 3" Y-bridge after about 12k miles, as clean as the day I installed it
And last, I noticed again that the manifold runner ports were obstructing the exhaust flow, just slightly on each side of each runner port, so I gasket matched the runner ports on the manifolds, I actually don't have the passenger side off yet, and didn't think to take a pic before I started the drivers side, but I'll show a before pic of the pass side for reference. I took a dial gauge and measured each obstructed area on each runner on the drivers side and came up with just over an inch of blockage, so I felt like it was worth the time, and with a Dremel it took some time:roflmao:
:coolspot:
So I FINALLY got around to pulling the turbo, and thanks to all the help I had here, and the search function, it really wasn't all that difficult:thumb:
I had a weld pop on my up pipe, which was what instigated the turbo removal, it was the drivers side up pipe, so here's the pile o parts that came off...
Ahhh, something's missing here...:thinking2:
I'm ready for my close up "Mr, Danville" lol, my 4094avant is off to see Mark and Larry at Danville for a transformation
I'd like to point out how clean the intake tract is after a EGR delete, here's my All Seasons 3" Y-bridge after about 12k miles, as clean as the day I installed it
And last, I noticed again that the manifold runner ports were obstructing the exhaust flow, just slightly on each side of each runner port, so I gasket matched the runner ports on the manifolds, I actually don't have the passenger side off yet, and didn't think to take a pic before I started the drivers side, but I'll show a before pic of the pass side for reference. I took a dial gauge and measured each obstructed area on each runner on the drivers side and came up with just over an inch of blockage, so I felt like it was worth the time, and with a Dremel it took some time:roflmao:
:coolspot:
NICE work Coco you have come along way that's for sure.
Also don't forget to port match your up pipes when you get the 1 back and get the other 1 off.May be Mark can port the ped before you get it back then you have a nice! clean flow the whole way.:thumb:
Also don't forget to port match your up pipes when you get the 1 back and get the other 1 off.May be Mark can port the ped before you get it back then you have a nice! clean flow the whole way.:thumb:
Thanks Scott:hug:
I was lookin at the pedestal and the union between the manifolds and up pipes and the gaskets match the holes/ports pretty well already, there could be a lil bit hogged out on the pass side of the pedestal, but the flange of the ped is pretty thin at that point already...
I just got the pass side manifold and will post a pic of the "blockage" I remove(d) in a minute...
I wonder why PPE doesnt match them already . does the stock head already match the exhaust gaskets?
. does the stock head already match the exhaust gaskets?I wonder why PPE doesnt match them already
No the head's exhaust port is smaller than the gasket by close to 3/16" per side of the port/runner....
Do you think it would be beneficial to open them up a bit????
Now is the time....
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Here's a pic of the pedestal, you can see where the up pipe doesn't totally match the ped port....
Do you think it could be opened up w/out risk
Here is a couple picks of the runners on the manifold as is, you can see where the gasket seals, the seal ring has a much greater footprint than the opening of the runner, and you can see the soot accumulation on the sides of the runners that are what I'm calling the "blockage"
Considering that there are 8 sides for the 4 runners, it actually accounts for quite a bit...:baby:
Do you think it could be opened up w/out risk
Here is a couple picks of the runners on the manifold as is, you can see where the gasket seals, the seal ring has a much greater footprint than the opening of the runner, and you can see the soot accumulation on the sides of the runners that are what I'm calling the "blockage"
Considering that there are 8 sides for the 4 runners, it actually accounts for quite a bit...:baby:
I wonder why PPE doesnt match them already
James-
Here is a pic of one of the exits of the exhaust port runner in the head, again like the PPE manifold but more consistent and consistently centered, there is soot accumulation on each side of the port and the footprint of the sealing ring of the gasket is much larger than the opening in the head...
So, does anyone think it would be beneficial to open them up?
Thanks in advance for the feedback :hug:
if you wanted to keep turbulence down and increase flow a very hair bit, it wouldnt hurt. the exhaust ports on the PPE mani are already bigger than the ports out of the head based on the soot markings im seeing so i may be incorrect there. if you dont mind spending the time, id do it.
the turbo on the other hand, the right side looks awefully close to the edge of the casting, id be afraid of going too far to the right with that and having it crack. opening it up some wouldnt hurt though
the turbo on the other hand, the right side looks awefully close to the edge of the casting, id be afraid of going too far to the right with that and having it crack. opening it up some wouldnt hurt though
Looks good, glad I have an LB7 with less shit in that engine bay!!!
Garrett turbo up pipe ports are better than IHI's but still benefit from a clean up.
That right up pipe looks way off. I've never come across one that bad. I would first look at the up pipe to see if there's something wrong. Were this stock up pipes or PPE?
The exhaust manifolds can be cleaned up to but if you look at your heads(if they're stock) they should be the same size as the exhaust manifolds but different than the manifold gaskets. This is how they are on stock exhaust manifolds. I would still gasket match everything you can, that's what I do.
Yellowchevy
Garrett turbo up pipe ports are better than IHI's but still benefit from a clean up.
That right up pipe looks way off. I've never come across one that bad. I would first look at the up pipe to see if there's something wrong. Were this stock up pipes or PPE?
The exhaust manifolds can be cleaned up to but if you look at your heads(if they're stock) they should be the same size as the exhaust manifolds but different than the manifold gaskets. This is how they are on stock exhaust manifolds. I would still gasket match everything you can, that's what I do
.Yellowchevy