Into a snow blower >^!

[fitterski]

time to up the torque and go on a mailbox
rampage

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsgvwMYn0N0

Question: the exact lateral load permitted
on a pulley bolted to the flywheel? The belt
is a Gates toothed model with very little
static tension (unlike V-belts). The current
engine puts out maybe 200 ft-lbs, I want to
at least double that @1600 with a LMM.

The current setup uses a rubber doughnut
on the flywheel and that supports one end
of a shaft. The other end rests in a bearing
cradle. The small pulley is on the shaft & the
gearing is 2.5:1. I'd like to do away with this
shaft to save some weight and also improve
the geometry (the dMax is about 150lbs heavier
then the Deutz 4-holer).

The other engine I'm eyballing is the Cummins
6BT but that mamma it's even heavier :-(

All constructive comments appreciated

Please be patient, my internet is on/off
these days

 

[WVRigrat05]

You've got my attention.

 

[corneredge]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvR-eaKUVqU

 

[Chevy1925]

i dont have much to add other than i DEFINITELY want to follow this!

 

[dmax_ty]

You must have metric shit-ton of snow to deal with or you are bored.

Either way, sounds bad ass.

 

[fitterski]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvR-eaKUVqU

ever try to hit a feather with a baseball bat?

"imho" your blower is begging for more snow

bigger impeller, less rpm, torque seems 'adequate'

 

[fitterski]

come on boyzzz, I asked some questions & need
answers because a week ago I didn't even know
if duramax was wrestler or a new dance
...or is this just durapinkpantyhose.org...?

A metric-shit ton of snow? YES that too
but what it really is is that at 72 I still
haven't learned how to sit on my ass
and just watch the sun rise and set.

I'm actually looking at 2 options: either
cannibalize the current animal or do it
all over with a hydraulic pump and a
hyd-motor blower on a new plattform.

For now I'm just trying to see if the
current getup is ugradable 'a little'.

 

[fitterski]

As of now the project is committed to a Duramax, just struck deal on one, should have it in a week or two. Low mileage, Allison tranny.

Soooo, the short of the long at this point will be a list of things to do to make sure that the engine is good to go i.e. to decide if it needs at least an in-frame kit (the _advertised_ mileage is less than 150k and it's either LBZ or LMM).

 

[fitterski]

and i'm no FNG, i was putting a 32 chev coupe on a 56 lincoln engine when most of the 'material' here wasn't even a round in the old man's clip, yeh, i built a few engines too :roflmao:

 

[WVRigrat05]

Lol. Should be fun to say the least

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Is this what people do when they live where it's cold???

Neat project, I'd bet you could clear protesters with a Duramax powered one...

 

[fitterski]

Is this what people do when they live where it's cold???

Neat project, I'd bet you could clear protesters with a Duramax powered one...

No Sir, they do other things too on long winter nights

About the protesters, somehow there's fewer of those too. We're not as far north as Alaska but just to illustrate the point, when was the last time you saw CNN covering protests up there for 36 hours nonstop?

 

[fitterski]

I like that 'smokin LMM' handle because, correct me if this ain't so, I've been told that the LMM is about the last version that can be run reasonably well DIY with a custom ecm/harness/whatever.

And that brings me to the question in mind: in an industrial/farming/non-street application such as this, what are the subsystems that MUST remain on the engine for it to be usable? I guess that the ecm itself stays to begin with...

Then, as a sidebar, how does the operator actually control the 'gas'? I've never studied these digital horrors before so I can only imagine that somewhere in the chain of command the RealGasPedal gets translated to a digital demand signal?

The deal I had going for a low-miler Duramax when I joined this group fell through but this engine continues being a very strong candidate second only to a 12-valve 6bt.

 

[DAVe3283]

The throttle pedal is connected to a special potentiometer assembly that connects to the ECU. You could alter it into a hand throttle if desired. Don't be too afraid of the digital throttle, it can be managed. Plus, I find it much easier to deal with routing and extending wires than an actual throttle cable.

Sent from my FlashScan V2

 

[fitterski]

The throttle pedal is connected to a special potentiometer assembly that connects to the ECU. You could alter it into a hand throttle if desired. Don't be too afraid of the digital throttle, it can be managed. Plus, I find it much easier to deal with routing and extending wires than an actual throttle cable.

Sent from my FlashScan V2

Thanks, not an obstacle but I gotta know AND I have a lot to learn. How about the higher models after LMM are they just as useable with relative ease?

 

[DAVe3283]

The LML (2011-2016) is very tricky to run outside a truck. I want to say someone did it, but I'm not 100% sure. I don't believe anyone has run a L5P (2017) standalone with the original ECU.

The easiest ones are going to be the older ones, for sure. And with a tune, all generations can make 450+ HP.

I'm partial to the LB7 (2001-2004) despite the injector issues because the tuning support is excellent and the parts are cheap. But you won't have any problems getting a LLY (2004.5-2005), or LBZ (2005.5-2007 classic) working standalone. The LMM (2007-2010) can be done, but I'm not familiar with what needs done.

Anything offered with a manual transmission (2001-2005) will be the easiest to tune, since you flash a manual transmission OS in and it stops caring about the Allison being missing.

As for what to keep, you want the ECU, full engine harness, and throttle pedal assembly. The fuse block would be nice to have, but isn't necessary.

Sent from my FlashScan V2

 

[fitterski]

That's very good news, about the older models! I'm after longevity and reliability so a modestly upgraded engine that's capable of 350+ hp running at only 2200 or sometimes 3200 would be bulletproof.

I think the 'LMM at most' came to me from a group I know are adapting it for airplane use but I could be mistaken. What I mean by 'what must be kept' is all the accessories & pollution extras. I saw this airplane version installed and other than starter/alternator/turbo it was pretty bare. Does having to keep the engine harness also include all the subunits it plugs too?

I would have it either drive a hydraulic pump, a mechanical reduction, or an auto transmission but in the latter case I would want it not to even know that it's connected to an auto trans.

 

[LBZ]

Direct drive to a hydraulic pump would be your best bet. If you wanted it to lope and smoke and whatnot you can do all that too-for show of course.

Any engine that was in a classic body style duramax will work best for you (2001-2007.5 or LB7, LLY, LBZ). They were all available with a manual transmission which will make it easier for you to adapt to a straight drive by running a ZF6 manual trans program in the ECM. As far as which electronics and modules you will need to make it operate, there are a few threads here by guys that have done swaps into other vehicles and boats. Just do a search-plenty to read.

As long as it's a good runner you shouldn't need to touch any internals, there may be a few things you might want to do to make it cleaner and maybe run a little better like deleting the egr if it has one but that's it. It likely has 5-10 times the hp and 50 times the torque your going to need to run a hydraulic set-up!!

 

[DAVe3283]

You can delete all the emissions controls, including everything in the exhaust and the EGR. You can reroute the PCV so it doesn't go into the intake (only did on later engines anyway).

For the harness, you want to keep most the sensors (except what plugged into emissions controls). You will absolutely need the crank and cam position sensors, turbo sensors (for LLY+), intake pressure sensor(s) and barometric pressure sensor. I recommend you keep the MAF sensor, as tuning with a MAF is much easier than without, and it doesn't hurt power any.

Like we've said, do a bunch of reading, and you'll find your answers.

What kind of hydraulic pump are you thinking of running? Because any Duramax a mild tune will do 400+ HP and 800+ ft-lb of torque, and most pumps I've seen are rated a tiny fraction of that!