One of the things I did when I swapped in the LBZ was yank all the EGR junk. To do this, and also be able to use the LLY CAC & Piping, a friend and I built what is almost identical to the LLY EGR delete pipe Rick sells, except this one's bigger to fit the LBZ parts. Since then, I've had nothing but trouble with the tube staying in the bridge. This morning, after changing my FPR, it blew out completely (might have been because I only put one of the two bolts in the brace). I replaced the shredded O-Rings, adjusted what I needed to adjust to get the bolts to line up right, and put it all back together. This time it did more or less the same thing it did the first time: pushed the tube out about 1/4", although this time the o-rings appear to be intact. The pipe we made feels pretty solid. Does anyone have any ideas why it's giving me trouble, and how I might go about fixing it?
LBZ: Intake elbow retention
- Thread starter Cougar281
- Start date
Well, there are only so many ways you can make a wheel
.As far as my "copy" is concerned, it's not exactly a copy. What Rick sells is specifically for the LLY's. Mine is made to yank the EGR stuff on a LBZ motor and use a LLY CAC. Ben's is probably different than mine or Rick's as he has a LBZ, and I'm ASSUMING is using the LBZ CAC, so routing will be different than mine or Ricks.
My theory is that since we didn't get the intake perfect (when I bolt the intake to the motor, there's a gap between it and the elbow), when I bolt the intake to the elbow, it puts tension on the elbow and pretty much pulls it out of the bridge. When we pull the motor in a few weeks, we're going to see about fixing that problem with the motor on a stand. That'll be much easier than trying to do it in the truck.
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