^This is absolutely on point!!! The "budget" rods aren't ever intended to make that power but now they finally reflect that in the price point Callies is at. I know we ordered a set of the BC rods for my fathers engine build due to cost and availability.Yeah, I definitely wouldn't try and market anything like this either. No where near enough volume. I only mentioned having a set made for myself. My only cost would be material for a single set. But then who knows how they work out? The whole diesel performance industry is more or less a niche market once you get to the level of built engines. As I said before, it would be great if more quality aftermarket companies started making parts. Look at Callie's for example. Their line of rods and cams are priced for the average consumer. And I wouldn't think they skimp on quality either being they're one of the top names in aftermarket parts. Will they handle what a Carillo or Howards would? Maybe , but probably not. But for a guy looking to build a 1000hp or less truck they look like a great option. That's just my opinion.
If Callies didn't have their rods out I would have certainly picked up a few sets to put on the shelf.Same ones I'm running in my build. They're rated at 1800 HP from Brian Crowers. Not sure if they've been tested to that though. Will handle anything I'll ever throw at em for sure. For $1200 , I almost bought a few sets for any future builds. Haha
Been there done that with other products. Definitely not worth the hassle or financial overhead....I had looked into coming out with our own line of hold downs but after investigating costs of having runs made the margins weren't high enough to bring them to production.
My parts setup cost (even with a friend owning a machine shop and not bending me over on machine time) was too high unless I was doing runs of 20-30 trucks per sku which would leave me with a ton of overhead for a product that doesn't move extremely quickly.
I just saw this response now . I'll ask my buddy about that for ya and see if he wouldnt mind doing it. I'll drop a stock one off at his shop next week if he has the time to scan it.Hay, Iron, Even if you don't make a set, would you still be able to laser scan one and upload the file here? Maybe someone else with the tools would be willing to make some for themselves. If I had the tools I would definitely do it. I'm confident enough in my heat treating skills that I wouldn't worry about them bending or breaking
I've broke them taking them out. I change a few injectors several years ago after some water messed everything up. Did exactly what you described. Took the valve cover off, but I had enough room to get vise grips on it that time. Now I'm rebuilding my whole truck basically (minus the short block, trans, and axles) and broke two more taking them out. Factory bolts with 220k on them. I'm not surprised. I just never felt like the factory bolts are a strong enough steel to be inside an aluminum valve cover.The bolts go through the valve cover and into the heads. Did they break torquing them or while driving? I know the factory spec seems pretty light @ 22ft. Lbs but its only an M8 bolt into aluminum. I have broken a few during removal and always removed the valve cover and welded a nut on em and they come right out. I don't like ez outs really and usually not necessary once you get the heat from welding. I always use a small amount of never sieze and new bolts and haven't had any issues with them. I'm still up in the air weather I'm going with the PDM hold downs, stock with bolts , or stock with studs. Best of luck with your Socal ones. I don't think they've had issues with LBZ ones.
I have contemplated making my own studs out of grade 12.9 threaded rod that's 180kpsi tensile strength. The factory bolts are a 10.9 which is similar to a grade 8 bolt at 150kpsi. But the actual injector hold downs them selves seem to be made of a questionable material as well. The Socal hold downs are supposed to be way superior to factory. I know a few members had issues a while back with a bad batch, but I believe that got straightened out fairly quickly. I've been so busy with work I haven't even been able to drop my block and parts off to the builder yet so Im in no hurry for hold downs. Best of luck to ya with the build.I've broke them taking them out. I change a few injectors several years ago after some water messed everything up. Did exactly what you described. Took the valve cover off, but I had enough room to get vise grips on it that time. Now I'm rebuilding my whole truck basically (minus the short block, trans, and axles) and broke two more taking them out. Factory bolts with 220k on them. I'm not surprised. I just never felt like the factory bolts are a strong enough steel to be inside an aluminum valve cover.
I'll take some pictures here in a few days once I get my SoCal ones installed. They look good. And the studs were my main goal. I know it's not the same tho with my LBZ
I'm sure that would work. I don't have the time to make stuff like that. One of the biggest reasons I got new studs and hold downs was bc this time taking the injectors out I had one hell of a time with 3 of them. There was so much dirt or carbon/soot Built up around the injector body they were practically seized in the head. It made me paranoid that maybe over the years my bolts stretched or the factory clamps bent a little causing just a little bit of blow by past the copper washer. There's no damage to the head so I don't think this is the case, but now I'm not ever gonna think about it again.I have contemplated making my own studs out of grade 12.9 threaded rod that's 180kpsi tensile strength. The factory bolts are a 10.9 which is similar to a grade 8 bolt at 150kpsi. But the actual injector hold downs them selves seem to be made of a questionable material as well. The Socal hold downs are supposed to be way superior to factory. I know a few members had issues a while back with a bad batch, but I believe that got straightened out fairly quickly. I've been so busy with work I haven't even been able to drop my block and parts off to the builder yet so Im in no hurry for hold downs. Best of luck to ya with the build.
14-18 hrs of your life you will never get back.With the LB7 being under the valve cover, I wouldn't want to do that injector job a second time either...
And that's why I bought an LLY... Plus I couldn't afford the difference for an LBZ.14-18 hrs of your life you will never get back.
Why not just buy M8 socket head cap screws in 10.9 (or 12.9) strength of the appropriate length and material? They are available.