LB7: Injector cup stuck to the injector

[kcabbie]

I pulled the second injector from the front(driver) and the cup came with. Now I can not get this thing off..

Can I use a carbide burr to cut some slits length wise, or is the injector extremely close to the other side of the cup wall?

Apparently who ever did the last injector swap did not do a mighty well done job. I am pretty sure they put loctite on the inside of the cup..

I really don't have the extra money to buy a new injector any time soon. So I would like to salvage this one. They are fairly new and the flow rates were well within spec.

I do plan on replacing the cup.

Thanks in advance for any info, hope I posted in the correct section.


Kasey

 

[kcabbie]

In case your wondering, "now why is he doing all of this?"

I am having a coolant leak, into a cylinder(the one from above). It has been going on for a while now and even though I am pretty sure I can replace a starter on a d-max faster than anyone in the universe(4 in two and a half months), It is getting old. Not to mention the chances of bending a rod.

I know there is a high chance of the problem being a blown head gasket as well.
I made the diagnosis above base on the fact I new the injectors were recently done. And from the lack of basic bolts/nuts being loose/stripped I can safely assure myself it was not done by a half way decent Duramax mechanic.

Another thing that makes me lean towards the cup(besides the $$ for the head gaskets and bolts) is that the injector would twist in the bore of the head easily. Yet when I pulled the injector w/cup they and fused. There fore the seal was for sure broken.

Kasey

 

[JustinD]

If that cup is stuck chances are that is your coolant issue.

 

[Chevy1925]

If that cup is stuck chances are that is your coolant issue.

x2. brian priced some cups out at the dealer not long ago and i think they were about 18-22 buck each. If you can, put the injector in a soft jaw vice and clamp it where the injector hold down goes into the injector. Then use a pair of channel locks to try to rotate the cup clockwise to break it free. if you turn the otherway, you may inadvertently loosen the injector tip and will need retorquing. i would do all you can before needing to cut it the cup if your wanting to save the injector.

 

[rgullett83]

try a little heat on the cup

 

[kcabbie]

Thanks for all of the replys!

I have put the injector in my vice and I have a very good pair of vice grips, the knipex ones. These little things do not slip on anything, I can push or pull on the cup as hard as possible and it just turns the vice. Unfortunately I had to sell my torch set due to financial problems last month. Sure could use it now.

I will try my heat gun, not sure if that will make it hot enough though.

Thanks again, any more ideas would be awesome. Just got a new job and I need my baby!!

 

[Chevy1925]

Thanks for all of the replys!

I have put the injector in my vice and I have a very good pair of vice grips, the knipex ones. These little things do not slip on anything, I can push or pull on the cup as hard as possible and it just turns the vice. Unfortunately I had to sell my torch set due to financial problems last month. Sure could use it now.

I will try my heat gun, not sure if that will make it hot enough though.

Thanks again, any more ideas would be awesome. Just got a new job and I need my baby!!

get one of those butane or propane ones from home depot if you can. should be all you need since those cups are aluminum.

 

[baggedLB7]

Depending on what heat gun you have it should work. I have used a heat gun to place berings so it should be no problem on an aluminum cup.

 

[kcabbie]

Got it off, and can obviously see why it was so stuck. I would bet $100 that this corrosion was somehow the cause of the person who put the injectors in.
I had to cut along and twist with the pliers for a good hour. After the slit was cut, It could be rotated and dirt and corrosion just poured out. Finally I was able to use a large pair of dikes to pop the cup off fairly easily.


Does the injector body still look okay? I made sure not to rotate the cup the wrong direction. I did how ever remove the bolt for the fuel line... this is my first duramax. The threads were not hurt but I do could not find the pin that held the stud in. Can I just put it back together and loctite it? Maybe the dealer can get this pin.

Thanks again

 

[kcabbie]

Had trouble with the pics..

 

[whytry]

those cups are stainless:thumb:

 

[kcabbie]

Yeah I think I may be able to reuse it, LOL

I know this is probably a very dumb question, how does the injectors spray? The tip seems to be a solid piece.. Is there supposed to be a hole?

And any info on that stud that connects the injector to the high pressure fuel line?

Thanks

 

[Ne-max]

There is no need to point the finger at the person who installed them. This happen more then you think. There really is anything he did wrong when he installed. There is only a little bit of lock tight that holds the cup in and seals it up. When I did my set in my 01 2 of them stuck. One so bad I just sent the cup out stuck to the core.
The tip has multiple small holes on it (thinking 6 or so). They are vary vary small.

 

[kcabbie]

If you read the earlier posts, there were a lot(at least 10) stripped bots and nuts. They clearly used channel locks to remove a lot, including the injector return line banjo bolts. Then reused the ruined bolts and nuts. I have every right to point the finger at the person who installed them..
At the price shops charge to replace injectors they should make sure that have a good tech doing the work.

I agree about the small amount of loctite to seal them, however on the tip of this cup half of the smaller end was gobbed with it, and the other was bare.

I like to have someone to blame for something being a pita, not like I'm saying any names.

Thanks for the info on the injector, I will make sure I can get it clean or I suppose I will have to buy a new one.

Kasey

 

[Ne-max]

Laugh at me then. I learned that its easier to remove the bango bolts for the return lines by using a pair of vise grips to brake them loose. The allen heads on them are a joke. I do agree that they should have replaced the messed up bolts cause I was in the same boat. I ordered new bolts from merchant auto. I know then one on the valve cover they use regular bolts instead of the allen crap.

 

[kcabbie]

I agree with you! That is something I learned after the first one. I'm %100 OK with using pliers to loosen them, to avoid stripping them.

In my case you can tell that was not the order of tooling used. I usually prefer allen, but I think these strip so easily because the metal is so soft.

Thanks again for the help:thumb:

 

[JMK777]

Yeah I think I may be able to reuse it, LOL

I know this is probably a very dumb question, how does the injectors spray? The tip seems to be a solid piece.. Is there supposed to be a hole?

And any info on that stud that connects the injector to the high pressure fuel line?

Thanks

There multiple holes if you look really close at the shoulder/side of the very tip.all most impossible to see with a dirty tip.

 

[kcabbie]

Okay thanks for the info. Dealer wanted $100 for one cup with o-rings!!

I went with a cup and injector install kit from pensicola for $55 shipped. I needed those washers for the banjo nuts any how.

Anyone have info on being able to use my injector? I don't see why there would be an issue in reinstalling that spigot. Unless there is some kind of procedure.. ?

Thanks

 

[Ne-max]

Next time check out merchant auto. They are cheap and better quality products.:thumb:

 

[ripmf666]

Okay thanks for the info. Dealer wanted $100 for one cup with o-rings!!

I went with a cup and injector install kit from pensicola for $55 shipped. I needed those washers for the banjo nuts any how.

Anyone have info on being able to use my injector? I don't see why there would be an issue in reinstalling that spigot. Unless there is some kind of procedure.. ?

Thanks

Damn no lube from dealer
http://creaturesofthenightperformance.com/LB7-Injector-Cups-P315482.aspx