Question: How low do yall go?

[2500HeavyDuty]

When u drop you T-bars?

Seemed like when i was out for a saturday night stroll my truck felt faster on the street with the bolts just dangling there and my cv's were slightly tilted up.

But if it better to have them level for the drag or a little lower to compensate for front end lift.

Im going back to the track again this friday with good hub bearing this time and hoping to hit a 1.7 60' But does the CV angle set up before the race matter so much?

How do yall have urs set up?

I run 285's with my bars maxed for DD cause my ranchhand weighs it down so much.

 

[Mike]

When u drop you T-bars?

Seemed like when i was out for a saturday night stroll my truck felt faster on the street with the bolts just dangling there and my cv's were slightly tilted up.

But if it better to have them level for the drag or a little lower to compensate for front end lift.

Im going back to the track again this friday with good hub bearing this time and hoping to hit a 1.7 60' But does the CV angle set up before the race matter so much?

How do yall have urs set up?

I run 285's with my bars maxed for DD cause my ranchhand weighs it down so much.

I just drop mine to slightly less then tie rods level. Drivers side in particular. Then on launch they tend to be level to help with body roll up to the 330'. As far as CV's I don't really look . Mick has broke a few shafts with the CV's at the wrong angle meaning pointed up. Hope this helps ya.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

I have my T-bar bolts backed out till an 3/8 gap before the keys hit the threaded bolt lug. with 4" drop on the back, the truck is just bout level, maybe 1" lower in the front, but im a 2wd'er so IDK on the driveshaft angle. My train of though would say when pullin or dragin, you'd want the shafts level = less drag on rotating parts within the CV which means less parasitic losses and easier on the components. So it shafts are slightly angled up, when weight transfers to the rear they should come up level but i'd only have it set like that when pullin or dragin. Just my opinion! Maybe someone else can shed some light?

 

[LB7Diesel]

I drop mine till the key touches on both sides. Then I pre-load the pass side 2 1/2 turns to try and absorb some of the shock from launch. Tire psi was the biggest obstical for me depending on the track condition.

 

[Diesel Pilot]

I drop mine till the key touches on both sides. Then I pre-load the pass side 2 1/2 turns to try and absorb some of the shock from launch.

x2 exactly.

 

[2500HeavyDuty]

alright, i dropped mine till my cv's were almost level and felt like i i still hopped across the 60'

then after that i dropped till keys were touching the plate, cv's were pointing up but launches real straight

Ill try out that full drop/2.5 crank thing.

It changes cause of the extra weight on the front i got. ill let ya know how it goes

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

I dont have any bolts in mine.

I would like to try Joeys technique of preloading the pass. side

 

[IdahoRob]

I drop mine till the key touches on both sides. Then I pre-load the pass side 2 1/2 turns to try and absorb some of the shock from launch. Tire psi was the biggest obstical for me depending on the track condition.

Sounds familar

A lot of wheel hop is caused from the rear axle loading and uploading. Clamping the rear springs will help this problem, but also help limit weight transfer(unloads the front end)

 

[LB7Diesel]

Sounds familar

A lot of wheel hop is caused from the rear axle loading and uploading. Clamping the rear springs will help this problem, but also help limit weight transfer(unloads the front end)

I think you told me that 2years ago Rob Makes perfect sence!

Tire psi get's me all the time. I wish our local track would get off there wallet and prep the track right everytime. Sure would make things more consitant when trying to tune

 

[2500HeavyDuty]

man track prep was so bad last saturday, i did a one psi launch in 4x4 and half throttled it and spun my tires and went all over the lane