Hey BTPA Guys, hitch question

[durallymax]

In the rules it states a Reese style class V reciever. My question is do they want us to have a 2.5" reciever tube too or witll a 2" class V hitch work.

Reason Is I cant say paying nearly 2.5 times more to get the reese 2.5" hitch over something like the Putnam V. I could care less how one performs over the other, outside of pulling rules. I dont tow with my truck anymore. I had a Curt Mule II but will obviously not be running that this year.

Please let me Know ASAP as I need to get a hitch ordered soon.

Thanks.

 

[durallymax]

I suppose I should add too that I will be adding a roll pan, so I want to make sure that it wont stick out too far.

If they prefer the reese over the others thats fine. Ill run it.

 

[durallymax]

you know what, I just found a decent price on them. Is $286 good or are there cheaper places. I started offf this search with a quote of $450 from a local place so I feel im doing good so far.

Ill probably just get the reese now I guess.

 

[durallymax]

and to add to that the other hitches i found wither wont work for the shortbed or require the factory bumper. Now I know why all of you guys run Reese.

 

[SmokeShow]

its a one man show in here... asked your own questions, answered yourself and even did a followup. I like it. :rofl:

 

[durallymax]

I know

 

[SmokeShow]

very seldom, if ever, do you see a hitch rule require a certain size hitch bar. Now I have seen them say they have to be solid, not tubing, but nothing that says you have to have a 2.5" or whatever size bar. FWIW

 

[durallymax]

No not the hitch. The Actual reciever that the pulling hitch slides into. My Pulling hitch is being made at work out of solid stock. Funny thing is that its some of the smallest metal they deal with around there.

 

[SmokeShow]

yeah, I understand... the reese can accept a larger hitch shank or they come with the sleeve to run the smaller traditional sized stuff. I don't think I've ever seen a rule saying you had to run any particular size shank on your hitch. Just some that say it has to be solid. Even that is relatively new rule, at least around here. Like within the last year or so.


That Reese WILL bend long before you tear up that solid-shanked hitch. In fact, they are known to bend on pulling trucks so I'd advise you reinforce any hitch that you buy - even the class V Reese.


C-ya

 

[durallymax]

i planned to

 

[dmaxlover]

1st off if you were planning on using last years rules, there was no restriction on the size of material you can use.

The rules have changed this year to:
http://www.badgertruckpullers.com/R...www.badgertruckpullers.com/Rules/default.aspx


21. Hitch must be rigid in all directions at all times. A hitch angle of 0 to 30 degrees maximum is allowed with no leeway. This will be measured from hook point to hitch attachment point on the frame. Draw bar length, measured from center of rear axle to hook point, will be a minimum of 27% of truck wheelbase. Steel hitching device will be no more then 1 1/8 inch thick, no less than 3/4 inch thick. Hitch height is not to exceed 26 inches. It must be visible, clear hook mounted in horizontal alignment. All hitches will have only one adjustable supporting point and it must be located no more than 6 inches from hook point. That supporting point, if mounted to frame, must be vertical if the attachment is from above or below. If attachment is to the rear end, it must be at or below the center point of axle. No part of the draw bar and/or draw bar assembly framework may protrude through the box floor. (2009)


Hope this helps.

 

[Josh2002cc]

Well sounds like you could run the hitch I have on my daily driver right now....

 

[juddski88]

it sounds as if you can run draw bars to the axle housing, I definitely would. that will be pretty much all the re-enforcement that is needed, it takes pretty much all the weight off the frame and puts it right to the tires.

 

[durallymax]

thanks dmaxlover, I was going off of the 09 rules.

josh I was going to have one of my sponsors build me a hitch but im not sure if I will or not.

juddski: The rules state it must be at or below the centerline, so wouldnt that not provide an advantage if Im thinking right? im no physics expert though.

 

[durallymax]

Im thinking of just building one for now.

How does this design sound.

Two pieces of angle iron bolt up to the stock holes. Then 2.5" ID square tube is welded to the angle iron running perpendicular to the frame rails. So One in the rear under the tailgate and one up front. These two pieces of tube would actually be 4 pieces and would have a gap in the middle to accept another piece of this tube running parallel to the frame. This piece would be the actual reciever. I would probably add gussets in carious places as well.

The angle iron would most likely be something of the nature of 3x5" or similar in order to lower the hitch down low enough.

Yes this is big heavy steel, but I get it from one of my sponsors which has a structural manufacturing business in addition to their other businesses.

I think it sounds like a decent, stout idea.

The only thing I dont know is where the roll pan will sit in order to make the hitch so that it will look clean with the roll pan. I would like to build this hitch and just use it all the time but if it doesnt line up with my roll pan it will be back to the drawing board.

Do if anybody on here with a roll pan can take some measurements for me as to how far down it goes and how far out I need to make my reciever tube that would be great. I know different roll pans will have different measurements, so whoever responds with the best measurements I guess that is the roll pan I will get.

thanks guys.

 

[MaxPowerLB7]

On the custom hitch i made for my rollpan, the bottom of the reciever tube is on the same plane as the bottom of the frame. The reciever is perfectly centered in the precut hole too.

 

[durallymax]

well i will do that and if it doesnt work ill blame you

 

[dmaxlover]

The Reese towbeast uses a 4" square tube with 1/4" wall for there hitch. I still bent that, so I would increase the size of you tubing that attaches between the frame rails.

 

[durallymax]

what about just using a thicker tube?? Like 3/8" 3x3" tube

 

[dmaxlover]

what about just using a thicker tube?? Like 3/8" 3x3" tube

I was thinking more like 4x4x3/8" wall.