HELP separating a rusted turbine housing

[duratothemax]

ok so I need to reclock this huge turbo for my jet engine. I dont know what it is, its a huge garrett. Anyway the exhaust housing is held on with bolts; its not a v-band.

I got the bolts and retainer pieces all off but the housing is still siezed solid to the CHRA/center section.

Ive tried soaking it in PB blaster for days, no luck. I tried heating it up a little bit with a torch, but I didnt try for long because I had a couple questions...

where should I grab on the turbo to hold it in place? Ive been clamping it in the vice by the T6 flange/foot. Where should I hammer on to try to break the CHRA free? Obviously im going to be careful with the aluminum compressor housing, but how likely is it that Ill crack/wreck the cast iron turbine housing? Do I need to be super careful? Remember this is a hugeass turbo off a detroit 12v71-something, so the housing has some mass to it.

Im using a block of wood...Im assuming using a hammer right on the hot side housing is bad...

Its tricky to pound on the housing because when its gripped in the vice by the housing, I have to kinda pound on the CHRA to separate it...(obviously if the hot side is clamped in a vice, pounding on the hotside wont separate it)

if I make some bracket that bolts to the oil drain flange holes and pound on that to try to "rotate" the CHRA, am I going to damage the CHRA easily?

Any other tips? Im going to keep heating it up more and just keep trying I guess...im almost tempted to take it to a truck shop and say "heres 50 bucks, reclock the housing!". Im sure they would have some jig or widget that separates it easily without damaging anything...

ben

 

[MMLMM]

throw it off the shop onto the concrete....Should do it

 

[Chevy1925]

ok so I need to reclock this huge turbo for my jet engine. I dont know what it is, its a huge garrett. Anyway the exhaust housing is held on with bolts; its not a v-band.

I got the bolts and retainer pieces all off but the housing is still siezed solid to the CHRA/center section.

Ive tried soaking it in PB blaster for days, no luck. I tried heating it up a little bit with a torch, but I didnt try for long because I had a couple questions...

where should I grab on the turbo to hold it in place? Ive been clamping it in the vice by the T6 flange/foot. Where should I hammer on to try to break the CHRA free? Obviously im going to be careful with the aluminum compressor housing, but how likely is it that Ill crack/wreck the cast iron turbine housing? Do I need to be super careful? Remember this is a hugeass turbo off a detroit 12v71-something, so the housing has some mass to it.

Im using a block of wood...Im assuming using a hammer right on the hot side housing is bad...

Its tricky to pound on the housing because when its gripped in the vice by the housing, I have to kinda pound on the CHRA to separate it...(obviously if the hot side is clamped in a vice, pounding on the hotside wont separate it)

if I make some bracket that bolts to the oil drain flange holes and pound on that to try to "rotate" the CHRA, am I going to damage the CHRA easily?

Any other tips? Im going to keep heating it up more and just keep trying I guess...im almost tempted to take it to a truck shop and say "heres 50 bucks, reclock the housing!". Im sure they would have some jig or widget that separates it easily without damaging anything...
ben

that, or the guy will take one big swing with a 80oz dead blow and knock it right off lol

 

[HEEPJEEP]

On my Holset I took the compressor housing off, clamped the CHRA in the vice, loosened the bolts that clamp CHRA to the turbine housing, heated the turbine housing around the "seam", stuck a pipe in the turbine inducer, and gave it some (twisting the housing, not removing). I wouldn't recommend trying to take it off because you will likely damage the wheel. Don't be afraid to give it some heat...

 

[Burn Down]

I use a couple blocks of wood on the chra in a vise, a couple large pry bars on each side, large deadblow, heat, or all of the above. You can beat the crap out of the hot housing with a deadblow & not hurt it.

 

[fishsmith]

any way to get a portapower on it

 

[Vrabel]

soak it with atf. seriously, it works wonders.

 

[D-MAX Mafia]

Or diesel. Diesel will find its way into the tiniest pinhole but i would not introduce heat after that.

 

[Turbo Performance]

soak it with atf. seriously, it works wonders.

a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is by far the best rust remover I've found. I've broken apart a couple of rusty chargers just by soaking them with it and hitting a couple times with a dead blow hammer. Read this, pretty cool. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57561&highlight=acetone

 

[JMK777]

I just pulled one of those turbos apart. It was a bitch untill I figured it out. Is the a tv? Looks like a gt42 but 4 bolts holding the turbine housing on? First spray it with pb oil and let it sit over night than get a map gas torch and heat up the turbine housing close to the flange but only heat 1/4 of the housing it will cause it to open up on the cartrige. You can than tap it out it will take about 10 miniuts . I also used a couple of cold chisles that where ground down to wedge them appart.

 

[paint94979]

a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is by far the best rust remover I've found. I've broken apart a couple of rusty chargers just by soaking them with it and hitting a couple times with a dead blow hammer. Read this, pretty cool. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57561&highlight=acetone

I found that same article... used the 50/50 mix on my up pipe bolts, they can out very easy and interestingly enough when each bolt came out the threads were soaked in ATF did its just apparently

 

[Vrabel]

atf works wonders. Take your ratchets and put in a can head down. fill with atf enough to cover heads and sit overnight. The next day, work ratchet back and fourth and see crud work out. and it'll work like new.:thumb: