Help??! New clutch installed, wtf is with my pedal???

[s3gulit]

(wrong forum i know, but kinda need this asap, and seem to get the most views here)

So got my truck back working yesterday from the south bend DDMAX install, much easier to row gears for some reason, just a better driving truck.

Anyway, having some issues with my pedal now. Installed a new master/slave at the same time, bled, etc.

I have to mash the damn pedal to the ground for it to float into gear (at a stop sign). Otherwise i have to force it into gear from a dead stop. Have a feeling i might have air trapped, or stroke on the pedal isn't enough. Tried to take off the master cap and stroke the cylinders some more to see if any air is trapped, but its on ridiculously tight and cannot get it off. Makes me think it vac'd itself to the fluid res?

Any insight or suggestions? its my daily and would like to get this fixed before i take the lady out to the luke bryan concert tonight at 6cst...

Dave

 

[02greysixer]

Nothing fell out of the lines while you were messing with it? I had something similar happen and it turned out a little plastic gizmo had come out of one of the one way valves in the connector


Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone

 

[duramax3388]

I didnt have any problems when I did mine but like you said if you cant get the cap off something is wrong.

 

[s3gulit]

Bout to unscrew the res and just drain it to see what the hell is going on with this cap, obviously im not going to get any bubbles out of the system if the cap isnt coming off.

The clutch will release if i push it to the ground, but still have to lightly force it into gear with a corresponding "clunk" and sometimes you'll notice it creeping forward like it's not being fully released at times.

I was wondering if there's an adjustment for the clutch pedal rod into the master? If i could get another 1/4-1/2" of travel i'd be fine, seems like i have alot of dead pedal before you feel the clutch...

 

[dmaxfireman]

try this. had a similar problem once and this worked.

if you have bled the system at the slave then i would unbolt the slave and let the pushrod extend out and suck more fluid into it, then once you have completely removed it reinstall it and let the bolts draw it in evenly to put a "preload" in the system.

 

[JoshH]

I don't think it will work on these transmissions. Last one I worked on was a hydraulic slave/throwout bearing assembly.

 

[Bryce418]

I don't think it will work on these transmissions. Last one I worked on was a hydraulic slave/throwout bearing assembly.

Yup.


I would raise the rear end as high as you can and have someone hold the clutch down while you crack the bleeder on the slave. Of course first you need to get the cap off.

 

[s3gulit]

there's no bleeder on a ZF6 slave, it's all in the master....

I'm seriously wondering if i could get the damn cap off, if there's not air trapped and it cant get out since the system isnt open to atmosphere...bout to try some channel locks with tape and get this cap off, think once i do it'll bleed out i "hope". Also going to check the box where the old clutch is when i get back to the shed in the AM, but im pretty sure i installed the kit with the new bolts....

 

[Bryce418]

Hmm, thought there was a bleeder but it has been a long time since I have worked on a zf6 truck.

Not having a bleeder it should do a decent job bleeding itself, this will be helped even more by raising the rear of the truck as high as possible.

 

[Josh2002cc]

When I did one, I put the master on my garage door rails and hung it. Then I bled it over night going out and pushing the rod in and cycling it every so often. That worked for me...idk.

 

[maxaholic]

In case you haven't gotten it fixed yet. I had a input shaft problem on the last one I put in my Duramax. Had to take a rolloc disc to all the splines that way the hub would slide evenly on them. Also on the hydraulics 05lly and johnboy told me to pump the hell out of it for several minutes (30 min is how long I pumped mine).

 

[s3gulit]

got it resolved for the most part...

2-6 are great, no problems. R-1 are still stuff, and usually clunk slightly putting them in gear, ill assume this is normal as i've gotten no additional bleed after FINALLY getting the damn master cap off.

double checked everything, but ill guess its because i rarely use R-1 that they don't see as much play and are tighter?

 

[cafryer]

Do you still have the clip for the check valve in the line off your old master cylinder or did you have to use it on your new one?

 

[s3gulit]

had to use it on the new one, my new/reman was just the cylinder/res. Sorry man.

 

[02greysixer]

Mine is tough going into reverse and first too, always has been. I think it's just cause those gears are the lowest and spin the fastest inside the trans so it takes longer for the synchros to slow everything down.


Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Bring back up. I've noticdd my swapped truck the pedal doesn't come up all the way where it's flush with the brake pedal at rest. Mines got to push all the way down too and it's annoying. I think ima find a new clutch maybe it's worn out and warped. But anyways.... I'm thinking about making a wedge to put between the pedal assembly and the firewall to kick it back out to be flush with the brake. Anyone have any thoughts, opinions about that?