Head Gasket Question

mvnvltn

Part's Limit Tester
Aug 22, 2007
463
0
0
45
Sykesville, MD
Just get Grade C. They are the thickest.

If you want what you had, then you can use the holes on the end of the gasket to give you what grade they were.
 
Jun 28, 2007
3,259
0
0
NE Pa
Good question. So what are the diff thickness of the 3? Did they use all 3 on trucks or just one of them? Just kind of curious because it seems like a good way to drop the compression a little.
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
Thanks for all the info. I was worried that I could not find any info & the dealers selling the stuff always seem to know the least.

I was only buying 1 side & needed to match the other.

I did find some info on the "grade" of the gasket
It goes as follows:

1 is Grade A
2 is Grade B
3 is Grade C
4 is for a .010-.030 overbore
5 is for a .010-.030 overbore with deck milled .008

You can see what you have by the following markings:
On the Left front (Dr. Side) or Right rear, there are 2 oval slots showing at the end of the head. The top slot shows this type.

A round hole at the top of the oval slot means it is a "1"
in the middle is a "2"
at the bottom is a "3"
if the oval is completely open, it is a "4"
if there is an oval at the top, it is a "5"

The bottom oval slot shows the side it is made for:
hole at bottom is left.
hole at top is right.
They also have an "L" or "R" at the end as well.

I'll post pictures when I get a chance.

I have no thickness or volume info for the gaskets, but this is a start.

Lonnie
Hope this helps.
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
Something else to think about....

My engine has a "B" gasket on 1 side & a "C" on the other.

I spoke with a dealer mechanic that said the gaskets are sometimes different on the same engine. They must hand select them based on the deck clearance for each side on the engine.

Anyone else see this on their motor?

Lonnie
 

Kat

Wicked Witch of the West
Aug 2, 2006
17,899
13
38
60
Norco, CA
Something else to think about....

My engine has a "B" gasket on 1 side & a "C" on the other.

I spoke with a dealer mechanic that said the gaskets are sometimes different on the same engine. They must hand select them based on the deck clearance for each side on the engine.

Anyone else see this on their motor?

Lonnie


IIRC Maxfarmer had that on his engine.
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
Kat,
Thanks for all your help.

I keep learning more things everyday.... even stuff I never thought I would be involved in.

For example:
1. How weak the oil pans are...
2. How the flywheel has to come off to remove the oil pan (another reason I think automotive engineers should have to work on vehicles before they are allowed to design car parts)...
3. How expensive the little GM tubes of silicone for the oil pan are (I'm also betting there will not be enough left in the tube to put my intake manifolds back on)...
4. How that little lower valve cover gasket can cost $50...
5. Never saw an engine with 2 different head gaskets on it intentionally (until this engine)...
6. Whoever designed the PCV & EGR system should be tar & feathered with the stuff that accumulates in the intake...
7. How you can bend a 3/4 drive breaker bar tightening flywheel bolts the proper amount...
8. How everything on a Duramax engine has cost me roughly twice what it would on a big block Chevy engine...

Lonnie
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
0
0
52
Thailand
Kat,
Thanks for all your help.

I keep learning more things everyday.... even stuff I never thought I would be involved in.

For example:
1. How weak the oil pans are...
2. How the flywheel has to come off to remove the oil pan (another reason I think automotive engineers should have to work on vehicles before they are allowed to design car parts)...
3. How expensive the little GM tubes of silicone for the oil pan are (I'm also betting there will not be enough left in the tube to put my intake manifolds back on)...
4. How that little lower valve cover gasket can cost $50...
5. Never saw an engine with 2 different head gaskets on it intentionally (until this engine)...
6. Whoever designed the PCV & EGR system should be tar & feathered with the stuff that accumulates in the intake...
7. How you can bend a 3/4 drive breaker bar tightening flywheel bolts the proper amount...
8. How everything on a Duramax engine has cost me roughly twice what it would on a big block Chevy engine...

Lonnie


uh yes Dont you love the duramax Diesel:rofl: I agree Lonnie
that PCV WTF where they thinking:confused:
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
I build those Z06's all the time. They are about 1/2 the price.

Example:
Head studs $250
Head gaskets under $100
Cam under $400
CNC ported heads under $2500 with all new valves & springs.

Makes Corvettes seem like economy builds.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
Kat,
Thanks for all your help.

I keep learning more things everyday.... even stuff I never thought I would be involved in.

For example:
1. How weak the oil pans are...
2. How the flywheel has to come off to remove the oil pan (another reason I think automotive engineers should have to work on vehicles before they are allowed to design car parts)...
3. How expensive the little GM tubes of silicone for the oil pan are (I'm also betting there will not be enough left in the tube to put my intake manifolds back on)...
4. How that little lower valve cover gasket can cost $50...
5. Never saw an engine with 2 different head gaskets on it intentionally (until this engine)...
6. Whoever designed the PCV & EGR system should be tar & feathered with the stuff that accumulates in the intake...
7. How you can bend a 3/4 drive breaker bar tightening flywheel bolts the proper amount...
8. How everything on a Duramax engine has cost me roughly twice what it would on a big block Chevy engine...

Lonnie

I love the humor in your posts Lonnie. Thanks for sharing your experience(s) with this build with us. I appreciate it. :hug: :cool2:

Here's to having the rest of the build be trouble free! :beer



C-ya
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
Thanks Mitch.

I set the engine in tonight & got it bolted to the trans. Now I have to make a crossmember for the motor mounts as they sit very low in the frame. All the clearances seem OK for the exhaust & surprisingly the oil filter clears as well. I still need to install all the top end components, but it is a major step toward completion. Getting everything positioned for height & will set the final front to rear position after I set the cab in place.

Lonnie
 

02freighttrain

Team Salad Bartender
Aug 13, 2006
911
0
0
sootville, Fl
Kat,
Thanks for all your help.

I keep learning more things everyday.... even stuff I never thought I would be involved in.

For example:
1. How weak the oil pans are...
2. How the flywheel has to come off to remove the oil pan (another reason I think automotive engineers should have to work on vehicles before they are allowed to design car parts)...
3. How expensive the little GM tubes of silicone for the oil pan are (I'm also betting there will not be enough left in the tube to put my intake manifolds back on)...
4. How that little lower valve cover gasket can cost $50...
5. Never saw an engine with 2 different head gaskets on it intentionally (until this engine)...
6. Whoever designed the PCV & EGR system should be tar & feathered with the stuff that accumulates in the intake...
7. How you can bend a 3/4 drive breaker bar tightening flywheel bolts the proper amount...
8. How everything on a Duramax engine has cost me roughly twice what it would on a big block Chevy engine...

Lonnie
I don't think you have to take the flywheel/flexplate off to remove the oil pan. I have one on the stand right now with the oil pan off and the flexplate on. fwiw........
 

Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
Two rear bolts are behind the flywheel/flexplate ring gear & it's too close to get a socket or wrench in there. Did you remove the pan or did someone else? Please elaborate on how you did this as it could help others in his situation.
 
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Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
I just found this info concerning the gasket selection on an Isuzu bulletin. I do not have actual dimensions, but I would assume based on the following info, that the gaskets are in order of increasing thicknesses of approx. 0.002"

Cylinder Head Gasket Selection

Grade------Right Side----Left Side------Piston Protrusion
Grade A----97288223----97309562-----.0088 to less than .0108
Grade B----97288224----97309563-----.0108 to less than .0128
Grade C----97309561----97288228-----.0128 to less than .0148

A USED Grade B gasket by my measurements is 0.039" thick at the main portion & 0.043" across the fire ring. Please remember that this is based on the somewhat irregular black gasket coating that is on the USED gasket, so do not take this as an absolutely perfect measurement.

Anyone have the "correct" dimensions for this gasket or for any of the other grades?

Hopefully this info will help someone in the future.

Lonnie