Hard Parts- Drive Train ;)

[duramaximizer]

Umm anyone have the coolest place to get good aftermarket CV joints and drive shafts? We knew part of what broke last weekend, but found out some more today.

We were truck pulling this last weekend, the rear/rear (CCLB) driveshaft and the cv joints decided to give up. All on a stock motor, stock turbo (LB7), etc etc. Not sure, but the M/A Stage V might have given up on 4th gear too. This was all on little 285 BFG's and a "little" tuning.

I was kinda disappointed. I thought the drivetrain would hold up better. This is the 3rd driveshaft, and we also have something torqueing enough to make the front driveshaft rub on the trans??? Seems like freightrain was saying something about this.

 

[JoshH]

What's an M/A Stage V?

 

[SmokeShow]

What's an M/A Stage V?

Eric is making his "own" transmissions and also still does SunCoast transmissions.


On the driveshaft. If I were you, I'd highly consider getting a one-piece driveshaft for the rear made up for use during pulling season. It'll be much stronger and eliminate a joint. Especially if you aren't depending on the truck as your sole means of transportation each day. They aren't the best for a lot of road driving though as they are too hard to balance out properly.

That's my opinion.

 

[RENODMAX]

The rubbing of the front driveshaft is from the motor mounts being soft and the motor twisting into the driveshaft. I think it was johnboy who did a write up on how to put a bolt through them to help, or Rob from atptrucks.com can set you up with a cable style setup to stop the twisting. Its worked on his twinned LBZ just fine so far. Id get a custom one piece drive shaft two piece ones are awful.

 

[JoshH]

Eric is making his "own" transmissions and also still does SunCoast transmissions.

That's what I figured. I was just curious about what it consisted of.

The rubbing of the front driveshaft is from the motor mounts being soft and the motor twisting into the driveshaft. I think it was johnboy who did a write up on how to put a bolt through them to help, or Rob from atptrucks.com can set you up with a cable style setup to stop the twisting. Its worked on his twinned LBZ just fine so far. Id get a custom one piece drive shaft two piece ones are awful.

The rubbing from the motor mounts being soft causes the driveline to rub on the bellhousing. My truck was doing it as well, and I fixed it the same way Rob did. The think that freightrain was talking about had to do with the frame twisting and the driveshaft rubbing on the gear selector shaft. If memory serves me correctly, he fixed it with a support bar that ran from the left side frame rail forward at an angle to the right side of the front axle/suspension crossmember.

 

[Brayden]

U-joints or CV's?

If you need upgraded front CV's then RCV company in Rockford IL is who you need to talk to.

Brayden

 

[RENODMAX]

That's what I figured. I was just curious about what it consisted of.

The rubbing from the motor mounts being soft causes the driveline to rub on the bellhousing. My truck was doing it as well, and I fixed it the same way Rob did. The think that freightrain was talking about had to do with the frame twisting and the driveshaft rubbing on the gear selector shaft. If memory serves me correctly, he fixed it with a support bar that ran from the left side frame rail forward at an angle to the right side of the front axle/suspension crossmember.

Yeah he made like a panhard bar for the frame haha. Robs fix is cheap and effective for sure. Just some heavy wire, ferrules and a turnbuckle. I know a while ago he was talkin about making kits together already done and they just loop around an up pipe bolt if im not mistaken.

 

[duramaximizer]

Ya it took the CV's out too, that's the beauty of a front locker I guess. He still DD the truck, so I am not sure about the 1 piece driveshaft, but we'll check into it.

What I call a Merchant Stage V, includes a billet input/output shafts PI converter etc etc. IDK what he calls it.

 

[duramaximizer]

Okay well back to the issue at hand. Eric opened the trans up and found nothing wrong. They put the trans on the trans dyno, and nothing showed up. SO NOW WTF?

Was this 3-4 missed shift (neutral drop basically) just a fluke? Do I need to change my programming? Is something wrong in the TCM? (Which I haven't touched the TCM tuning.)

We can't be having this thing shifting like shit all of a sudden. IDK what the deal is, but it needs to be figured out.

Recap:
The truck a 2002 CCLB LB7 stock turbo (like my dad's except a MA built trans) was pulling the sled down the track just like normal. 1-2 2-3 then on the 3-4 the engine revs sky high. The truck then downshift/slams into 3 gear. (The guy never picked off the throttle.) The truck then acts totally normal until the 278' mark were the driveshaft and CV joints let loose together.

I am assuming that the only reason the driveshaft broke was because of the missed shift, and then after the rear driveshaft broke, the front end couldn't take the huge burst of power, so it let go also.



So I am back to why in the heck is the transmission is missing shifts? The truck doesn't defuel on the shifts, but per my programing request. But per Mike L it should defuel the 3-4 for more longevity.

So ultimately I will do what I have to do to save the trans, but that doesn't explain why it missed the 3-4 upshift. This is not the first time this trans has been introduced to hp. This trans has seen probably 30+ hooks and all of the sudden out of the blue it misses a 3-4 shift and Eric and the trans dyno say everything is fine. What gives?

On EDIT: Feel free to move this to wherever you see fit if it takes a non hard parts run-a-way.