Had enough of OEM brakes.

DougSmith

New member
I am tired of my brakes. The rattle after installing new pads and rotors after 5,000 miles. The sloppy, gooey feel of the pedal and the push back when I push on the pedal too fast.

I want to know from those that have put after market calipers and rotors, what are the best value for stopping distance and feel. I tow some, about 8,000 lb camper, but that could get bigger next year with a trade. I have heard some names, but I want the scoop please.

Is is possible to do the fronts, then do the rears next spring without having balance issues? I mean after all, I have replaced the rear OEMs 2 times in 170,000 miles for lack of use, all rusted up.

thanks!
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,670
5,818
113
Phoenix Az
I am tired of my brakes. The rattle after installing new pads and rotors after 5,000 miles. The sloppy, gooey feel of the pedal and the push back when I push on the pedal too fast.

I want to know from those that have put after market calipers and rotors, what are the best value for stopping distance and feel. I tow some, about 8,000 lb camper, but that could get bigger next year with a trade. I have heard some names, but I want the scoop please.

Is is possible to do the fronts, then do the rears next spring without having balance issues? I mean after all, I have replaced the rear OEMs 2 times in 170,000 miles for lack of use, all rusted up.

thanks!

Thats a hydorboost issue, not a brake pad/rotor issue. whens the last time you changed your brake fluid? that makes a huge difference once new fluid is put in as well as a new hydroboost with new powersteering fluid
 

Redbowties88

Sideways > Straight ;)
Aug 24, 2009
1,943
1
0
609 New Jersey
i think stainless lines will help you more then new calipers... i have a few friends that have seen great results..


and also new fluids
 

Noreaster

Active member
Jun 13, 2007
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0
36
43
Cape Cod,MA
If you file the slot on the pads that fits on the slides it will stiffen up the pedal.
I did pads, rotors, SS lines & flushed the system. Big difference over the factory stuff IMHO
 

DougSmith

New member
Yea, I flush power steering fluid and brake fluid as scheduled.

I am thinking I may have an air bubble somewhere. I will have to get a buddy and do the fluid swap again and see.

I also noticed the kick back on the pedal is WAY worse in the cold. This morning when I fired her up, and put my foot on brake to put in drive, it pushed back harder than I pushed it down, then after about 10 miles, it relaxed some. very scary feeling.

I will look into the SSBCs, never heard of them.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,670
5,818
113
Phoenix Az
Yea, I flush power steering fluid and brake fluid as scheduled.

I am thinking I may have an air bubble somewhere. I will have to get a buddy and do the fluid swap again and see.

I also noticed the kick back on the pedal is WAY worse in the cold. This morning when I fired her up, and put my foot on brake to put in drive, it pushed back harder than I pushed it down, then after about 10 miles, it relaxed some. very scary feeling.

I will look into the SSBCs, never heard of them.

unless you try flushing the hydroboost again and see if you can push any air out of it to get rid of that kick, your booster is pretty much shot. at some point soon it will start leakin out the weep hole near the front as well. Fixing pads, rotors, brake lines, abs unit, master cylinder, and so on will NOT fix that problem. Your gunna have to replace the hydrobooster or deal with the kick. i got two years before mine finally took a dump and started leaking out the front bad but for two years it kicked if i hit the brake pedal quickly
 

ROGUE GTS

Member
Apr 30, 2008
168
0
16
If your rear rotors are rusting on the surface it's due to lack of proper maintenance on the calipers. You need to "Fit" the pads to the sliders and keep them properly lubed.

Bleed the brakes, starting from furthest from the Master Cylinder and working toward it.

Flush the whole hydroboost system. Simplest way I have seen is remove the return line from the brake booster, hook up about 5' of hose to a bucket, and pump the brake pedal, turn the steering wheel side to side before pumping the pedal to clear out the steering box.

If your brakes are working properly you should be able to engage the abs at freeway speed without too much trouble.

I'm still planning to swap to the new 14" rotors if I can't find a reasonably priced 15 or 16 from a stock application.