I took the cheap route when I built my trans and now I will be doing a full change to synthetic. Is there anything specific I need to do to make sure all the conventional oil is out or can it mix a little with the trans synd?
Going from conventional to trans synd
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You need to have the trans. power flushed Reece. I used the mobile lube shop over by NC Machinery.
You don't need to have it power flushed. You can mix it or flush it yourself. It's pretty simple procedure.
Hoot method or 3 pan drains within 5K miles works well also and is recomended by Allison.
Off memory :
Drain,refill,pull transmission line return into a bucket,start truck,drain off a gallon or so,shut truck off ,refill,repeat until you have removed approx 2.5 gallons refill to desired level.
You need approx 5 gallons.
This was written up years ago how to perform this service. Not by me
Drain,refill,pull transmission line return into a bucket,start truck,drain off a gallon or so,shut truck off ,refill,repeat until you have removed approx 2.5 gallons refill to desired level.
You need approx 5 gallons.
This was written up years ago how to perform this service. Not by me
Here:
THE INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN IS A COMPLILATION
OF TEXT ASSEMBLED FROM VARIOUS PUBLIC MESSAGE BOARDS
AND WAS NOT WRITTEN BY THE OWNER OF THIS PAGE.
USE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION
The Basics.....
I installed the deep pan/deep pan suction filter last night and switched to Transynd. Bought a 5 gal bucket of Transynd from the Allison dealer for $125, and used 4.75 gal with the disconnected cooler line. Kept a qt for future use/spin on filter changes.
1) Added 10.5 qts Transynd and pre-filled the new spin on filter after swaping pans.
2) Disconnected the FROM COOLER line, used a section of garden hose into a 1 gal pail (I had two 1 gal pails on hand)
3) Remote started/shut off after about 1+ gal out. The ATF pumps out pretty fast
4) Put in 2 gal+ or so Transynd, repeated #3,
5) Re-attached FROM COOLER LINE.
6) Check ATF level, COLD and HOT as outlined in the Diesel Supplement.
A big THANKS to Kennedy for the tip on using the remote start (previous post) to do this, worked like a charm especially when you are working alone.
More compiled notes....
No torque sequence described in the Helm's manual. I put them in finger tight, moving from corner/corner and side/side etc. Then torqued/tightened them a little at a time doing the same.
TORQUE PAN BOLTS = 20 ft lbs
TORQUE DRAIN PLUG = 25 ft lbs
There are two lines on the passenger's side of the transmission up front near
the converter; the lower one is the "To Cooler" line and the upper one is the
"From Cooler" line. If you disconnect the "From Cooler" line from the transmission
you can put it in a bucket and flush to your heart's content.
In case you haven't seen the Jiffy-Tite style connector before: Slide back the
plastic cover over the c-clip-shaped spring, then use a small screwdriver to
pop the spring out of its groove.
KEEP A FINGER ON THE SPRING AS YOU DO THIS,
because those springs just love to go flying off into some dark hole where
you'll never find it. Once the spring is out,just pull and wiggle on the line
until it comes out of the fitting. As soon as you have the line out you can put
the spring back into its groove so you don't lose it - the line will snap right
back into place when you're done, even with the spring there.
Be careful not to damage the o-rings when re-installing.
A few other tips for your pan swap...
When you're removing the old suction filter: if the seal stays in the bore, don't use a screwdriver
to pry it out. Just wipe off the neck of the filter, wipe out the seal, and reinstall the filter.
**** it sideways a bit and pull down again - the seal should come out with it.>
Your refill quantity will be 10.5 quarts or roughly 2.5 gallons. This
is with the deep pan, and does not include the cooler lines. The torque
converter holds roughly 4.5 quarts in addition to the 10.5 quarts. Obviously
this means you will have a mixture of TranSynd and Dexron. The two fluids
are compatible.
I bought a 5 gal pail of Transynd ($125) and poured two quarts in clean
containers just in case I needed to add any in the future. The remaining
4.5 gal went through the tranny - start the engine, run a few quarts out,
shut off the engine, add more Transynd and repeat until it was all in.
Lucked out that my final check was right on the correct fill level
(checked HOT as per the manuals).
If you refill with Transynd as I did, you will have about 58% Transynd.
After the second fluid change using Transynd, you will have about 80%
and over 90% at the third change. If you plan on switching to TranSynd I
recommend you buy 3 Gallons and pull the "From Cooler" line loose from
the transmission (install a short hose into a bucket) and start the truck
up to flush (the majority) the Dexron 2 out... I over fill the pan by 2-3
quarts when I'm doing this...
You "feed and bleed" , *DO NOT* pump your tranny dry!! You install
your filters, pans and whatnots, fill her up to the "cold" mark with new
fluid. Then hook up your flush hose and also feed new fluid down the
dipstick hole while you are pumping. After pumping about 2-1/2 to 3 gallons,
stop, reconnect the flush line, fill back up to the cold mark with new
fluid. Then start it up and work your way through all the gears
(holding the brakes), pausing for a few seconds in each selection.
Take her out for a spin around the block and drive for about 15-3O minutes.
Then come back and do the through-the-gears routine again before winding up
in Park and while still idling check for fluid at the "Hot" level. Adjust
as necessary and you are set!
No.. What I'm saying is after you have drained the fluid and replaced
the spin-on filter you can remove the "From Cooler" line and install
a short piece of hose into a bucket... From that point I hope you measured
about how much fluid you took out of the trans including the filter...
Now install the same amount +2-3 more quarts and start the truck up
(it may take a few seconds for the fluid to start coming out so don't
be alarmed if it does this) You should be able to tell when the Dexron III
stops and the TranSynd starts. At that point cut the
truck off and reinstall the Cooler Line.. Now crank the truck back up
(check for leaks) and place it in Drive-Neutral-Reverse then back to PARK..
Do this a few times then check the Fluid level.. It should be on the "COLD FULL"
line if not add Fluid until.. Then as idle chatter said, drive it around
to get the trans temp up then check to see if it's at the HOT FULL mark
if not add fluid..
Pan bolt torque - 18-21 ft-lbs.
Drain plug torque - 25 ft-lbs.
Pan: 29536522 $48.87 PHOTO
Gasket: 29536526 $29.36 PHOTO GASKET NOT REQUIRED UNLESS DAMAGED
Filter-Suction, Deep: 29537966 $21.22 PHOTO
Spin on filter: 29537268 $8.87 PHOTO
THE INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN IS A COMPLILATION
OF TEXT ASSEMBLED FROM VARIOUS PUBLIC MESSAGE BOARDS
AND WAS NOT WRITTEN BY THE OWNER OF THIS PAGE.
USE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION
The Basics.....
I installed the deep pan/deep pan suction filter last night and switched to Transynd. Bought a 5 gal bucket of Transynd from the Allison dealer for $125, and used 4.75 gal with the disconnected cooler line. Kept a qt for future use/spin on filter changes.
1) Added 10.5 qts Transynd and pre-filled the new spin on filter after swaping pans.
2) Disconnected the FROM COOLER line, used a section of garden hose into a 1 gal pail (I had two 1 gal pails on hand)
3) Remote started/shut off after about 1+ gal out. The ATF pumps out pretty fast
4) Put in 2 gal+ or so Transynd, repeated #3,
5) Re-attached FROM COOLER LINE.
6) Check ATF level, COLD and HOT as outlined in the Diesel Supplement.
A big THANKS to Kennedy for the tip on using the remote start (previous post) to do this, worked like a charm especially when you are working alone.
More compiled notes....
No torque sequence described in the Helm's manual. I put them in finger tight, moving from corner/corner and side/side etc. Then torqued/tightened them a little at a time doing the same.
TORQUE PAN BOLTS = 20 ft lbs
TORQUE DRAIN PLUG = 25 ft lbs
There are two lines on the passenger's side of the transmission up front near
the converter; the lower one is the "To Cooler" line and the upper one is the
"From Cooler" line. If you disconnect the "From Cooler" line from the transmission
you can put it in a bucket and flush to your heart's content.
In case you haven't seen the Jiffy-Tite style connector before: Slide back the
plastic cover over the c-clip-shaped spring, then use a small screwdriver to
pop the spring out of its groove.
KEEP A FINGER ON THE SPRING AS YOU DO THIS,
because those springs just love to go flying off into some dark hole where
you'll never find it. Once the spring is out,just pull and wiggle on the line
until it comes out of the fitting. As soon as you have the line out you can put
the spring back into its groove so you don't lose it - the line will snap right
back into place when you're done, even with the spring there.
Be careful not to damage the o-rings when re-installing.
A few other tips for your pan swap...
When you're removing the old suction filter: if the seal stays in the bore, don't use a screwdriver
to pry it out. Just wipe off the neck of the filter, wipe out the seal, and reinstall the filter.
**** it sideways a bit and pull down again - the seal should come out with it.>
Your refill quantity will be 10.5 quarts or roughly 2.5 gallons. This
is with the deep pan, and does not include the cooler lines. The torque
converter holds roughly 4.5 quarts in addition to the 10.5 quarts. Obviously
this means you will have a mixture of TranSynd and Dexron. The two fluids
are compatible.
I bought a 5 gal pail of Transynd ($125) and poured two quarts in clean
containers just in case I needed to add any in the future. The remaining
4.5 gal went through the tranny - start the engine, run a few quarts out,
shut off the engine, add more Transynd and repeat until it was all in.
Lucked out that my final check was right on the correct fill level
(checked HOT as per the manuals).
If you refill with Transynd as I did, you will have about 58% Transynd.
After the second fluid change using Transynd, you will have about 80%
and over 90% at the third change. If you plan on switching to TranSynd I
recommend you buy 3 Gallons and pull the "From Cooler" line loose from
the transmission (install a short hose into a bucket) and start the truck
up to flush (the majority) the Dexron 2 out... I over fill the pan by 2-3
quarts when I'm doing this...
You "feed and bleed" , *DO NOT* pump your tranny dry!! You install
your filters, pans and whatnots, fill her up to the "cold" mark with new
fluid. Then hook up your flush hose and also feed new fluid down the
dipstick hole while you are pumping. After pumping about 2-1/2 to 3 gallons,
stop, reconnect the flush line, fill back up to the cold mark with new
fluid. Then start it up and work your way through all the gears
(holding the brakes), pausing for a few seconds in each selection.
Take her out for a spin around the block and drive for about 15-3O minutes.
Then come back and do the through-the-gears routine again before winding up
in Park and while still idling check for fluid at the "Hot" level. Adjust
as necessary and you are set!
No.. What I'm saying is after you have drained the fluid and replaced
the spin-on filter you can remove the "From Cooler" line and install
a short piece of hose into a bucket... From that point I hope you measured
about how much fluid you took out of the trans including the filter...
Now install the same amount +2-3 more quarts and start the truck up
(it may take a few seconds for the fluid to start coming out so don't
be alarmed if it does this) You should be able to tell when the Dexron III
stops and the TranSynd starts. At that point cut the
truck off and reinstall the Cooler Line.. Now crank the truck back up
(check for leaks) and place it in Drive-Neutral-Reverse then back to PARK..
Do this a few times then check the Fluid level.. It should be on the "COLD FULL"
line if not add Fluid until.. Then as idle chatter said, drive it around
to get the trans temp up then check to see if it's at the HOT FULL mark
if not add fluid..
Pan bolt torque - 18-21 ft-lbs.
Drain plug torque - 25 ft-lbs.
Pan: 29536522 $48.87 PHOTO
Gasket: 29536526 $29.36 PHOTO GASKET NOT REQUIRED UNLESS DAMAGED
Filter-Suction, Deep: 29537966 $21.22 PHOTO
Spin on filter: 29537268 $8.87 PHOTO
Oh yeah, I read that awhile back. Sounds like a pain but would work if you didn't have access to flush machine. Thanks for the refresh.
Thanks for the info.
Why is it not good to flush an alli? Will it gum up the valve body or something?
Why is it not good to flush an alli? Will it gum up the valve body or something?
Ya like Mike said and has said for a long time that a power flush isn't good for I believe the seals and such. Doing it yourself as described is really easy just don't run it dry
just curious why your changing fluid? big dipper recommended to me that i continue to use dex III....
just curious why your changing fluid? big dipper recommended to me that i continue to use dex III....
Synthetic is a must in sub freezing temps. Dex 3 solidifies at -30F.
Ah i see, thanks mike i had no idea...i guess it would be nice if your trans fluid stayed..well..fluid lol