I'd like to find ways to stiffen a frame for a Dmax swap. Besides boxing the frame because mine is already boxed stock. I had an idea I wanted to run by you guys. I came across some 6061 and 7075 aluminum that is 1/4" thick. My idea was to run this plate kinda like a skid plate but from frame rail to frame rail. Using 1/2 bolts/nuts, welding the nuts to 1/8" thick large diameter washers. Then drilling holes just big enough for the nuts to slide into the frame rail. Then weld the washers to the frame rails. Doing so, say ever 3-4 inches down each side. I've figured out how to run one plate from the Trans cross member to the front of the rear lower link. Then one from the front of the Trans cross member to the front end cross member under the motor. Notching for clearance of course. Also I could use dimple dies through out to make it even more ridged and to drain water and what not. What do you guys think? The aluminum was free it's sitting in my garage right now.
Frame twist prevention?
- Thread starter turbhoe
- Start date
Talk to Eric at DuraBurb.
He has built several half-ton tahoes/escalades with duramax's. If anyone knows the answer as to exactly how much stiffening is needed, it would be him.
He has built several half-ton tahoes/escalades with duramax's. If anyone knows the answer as to exactly how much stiffening is needed, it would be him.
While adding the plate to the frame may seem like it would make it stronger, you would also need to add additional bolts to the body.
Think of the plate you are adding like a sheet of paper. Unless you make it into cardboard with the waffled center, it will just crinkle and flex. Additional cross members will do more provided they are properly fixed to the frame.
Where I work, we have prime movers that have triple frame rails in them for strength.
You may be amazed that the frame and body combination of the tahoe is quite strong and may possibly support what you are trying. Unless you plan on towing what a 3/4 ton truck is capable of.
Think of the plate you are adding like a sheet of paper. Unless you make it into cardboard with the waffled center, it will just crinkle and flex. Additional cross members will do more provided they are properly fixed to the frame.
Where I work, we have prime movers that have triple frame rails in them for strength.
You may be amazed that the frame and body combination of the tahoe is quite strong and may possibly support what you are trying. Unless you plan on towing what a 3/4 ton truck is capable of.
No plans of over weighting the Tahoe. But I do plan on big power. I figured the dimple dieing of the plat would increase its rigidity. I do know, the frame is short and fully boxed with a lot of braces front to rear. I wan to try and add some more cross members also but there is not a lot of room under there. About any where a brace can fit, it already has one.
Honestly, I really dont think you'll have to do much. Being fully boxed, with the long body stiffening up the frame (not like a pickup truck where the bed/body are separate and can twist individually), and lighter weight.......Id guess it would be fine.
But post on Diesel Place and see what Eric says....
But post on Diesel Place and see what Eric says....
Sorry for the delay
We have clients running crazy power on Tahoes with no issues
twins, dual CP3, and 60 over injectors. Is 750HP extreme for a Tahoe? Naww
Our shop SUV is a going together now and we will be blasting a ton of NOS & Propane through it shooting for 800HP I'll let ya know what we find.
P.S. you will need the 11.5" rear Diff and to convert to leaf spring to bring it all together.
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We have clients running crazy power on Tahoes with no issues
twins, dual CP3, and 60 over injectors. Is 750HP extreme for a Tahoe? Naww
Our shop SUV is a going together now and we will be blasting a ton of NOS & Propane through it shooting for 800HP I'll let ya know what we find.
P.S. you will need the 11.5" rear Diff and to convert to leaf spring to bring it all together.
thank you for the info. So I would just be making more work for myself I see. Good to know. I figured with it being so short and beefy it would be pretty strong. I just wanted to make sure.
Oh man, leafs? Booo. Lol. Is the 4 link not stout enough? I was going to fully weld all the connections and go with Dom for the links.
I need to get with you on how that 8 lug swap worked out that we talked about last year.
Oh man, leafs? Booo. Lol. Is the 4 link not stout enough? I was going to fully weld all the connections and go with Dom for the links.
I need to get with you on how that 8 lug swap worked out that we talked about last year.
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P.S. you will need the 11.5" rear Diff and to convert to leaf spring to bring it all together.
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the tahoe in this picture doesnt have an 11.5" diff though....?
I was just thinking the same thing, Ben. That looks like a 14bolt SF 9.5. I have one in the garage right now.
i'm really starting to consider the 9.5". there are some great upgrades for them and i see quite a few guys running them with good duramax power.