Forged Vs. Billet Rods
- Thread starter SIKDMAX
- Start date
Im useing cunningham rods
http://www.cunninghamrods.com/
Not these:rofl:
http://www.cunninghamflyrods.com/
I think the bamboo rods range from 125.00 up to 600:joker:
As for the connecting rods they are around 3000.00 ish ( The NORM )
These guys run a pretty small shop and are IMO all very knowlegible and helpfull and eager to help
I thought Carillos were billet rods as well. I haven't kept up with them since I went with the Crower.
Rods are not the area of concern for me, pistons maybee but , So far I have not heard a ton of failures with the bowls cut ! ...
Where is the wood KNOCK KNOCK !
Rods are not the area of concern for me, pistons maybee but , So far I have not heard a ton of failures with the bowls cut ! ...
Where is the wood KNOCK KNOCK !
Crower, Cunningham, and most others are billet. Billet is easy, buy a piece of material and start machining.
Carrillo are forged. Now we are talking about molten metal squished into a die. Forged is stronger.
Next is the "I" beam vs "H" beam discussion.
Both Audi and Peugot started with a blank sheet of paper for their Diesel racing programs. Both chose forged "H" beam.
Things that make you go hmmmmmmm.
Carrillo are forged. Now we are talking about molten metal squished into a die. Forged is stronger.
Next is the "I" beam vs "H" beam discussion.
Both Audi and Peugot started with a blank sheet of paper for their Diesel racing programs. Both chose forged "H" beam.
Things that make you go hmmmmmmm.
Thanks for the info Guy. Do you plan on carrying several brands/styles of rods/pistons or are you going to stick with 1? Any idea of timeframe for pricing/website updates?
On the other hand, that 7.1L Kit is looking enticing
I think your right. Knock the knots out and use these holes for the rod journal and wrist pin....:rofl:
At this point in time, I think your wasting your money on forgings. Unless I'm missing something (which I could be) we are not at the power levels to require a forged rod.
We have customers that want to over build all the time.... Diesel engines are a bit different than rocket engines or gas turbines, but overbuilding isnt always the best answer. If you have plenty of money then forged should be fine, but if you want to save every penny you can and not skemp on quality then "good" billet rods should serve you fine.
I think the crank would fail before a good billet rod would...
We have customers that want to over build all the time.... Diesel engines are a bit different than rocket engines or gas turbines, but overbuilding isnt always the best answer. If you have plenty of money then forged should be fine, but if you want to save every penny you can and not skemp on quality then "good" billet rods should serve you fine.
I think the crank would fail before a good billet rod would...
Thanks Guy,
H beam hold up better then I beams but i might be wroung since Isais billet was better lol
Thanks for the info Guy. Do you plan on carrying several brands/styles of rods/pistons or are you going to stick with 1? Any idea of timeframe for pricing/website updates?
On the other hand, that 7.1L Kit is looking enticing
I carry both the Crower and Carrillo brand, so you always have a choice. Coming soon are the Howard Rods, which are an "I" beam forging with the FPO or Forced Pin Oiling option for about $2850.
Do you like the forced pin oiling option?
I think it would be a bennifitbut i dont have the experiance that you do! I still think every lil thing helps
The crank?
I read of a place that will build custom cranks,but never heard of enough failures,That would concern me?
I know cranks have failed but it was because of other probloms Not the crank?
what do you know? or what have you read? C'mon spill the beans
one thing I have read is that you should take the wieght of the connecting rod into consideration
IMO you go with Tripp you let him do the research and just pull out the visa
personally I would of done this, But i bought a lot of stuff from a fellow member And yet Guy has still helped me!! He is top notch IMO
IMO you go with Tripp you let him do the research and just pull out the visa
personally I would of done this, But i bought a lot of stuff from a fellow member
And yet Guy has still helped me!! He is top notch IMO
i would agree... once we get a proven piston the wont crack/rip i think the crank/block is the next weak link
given if the mains stay put and not allow the crank to walk
Do you like the forced pin oiling option?
but i dont have the experiance that you do! I still think every lil thing helps
I like the FPO. Some of the high HP engines have started to flatten the bushing in the small end. Perhaps this extra lube will fix this issue. Time will tell.
If it doesn't I'll just get rid of the bushing and go with a DLC pin.
Do you not think the main studs from ARP are enough Adam?
Block could be a issue,Since GM decided to build a stonger one in the lbz and newer
Is there alot of people wrecking the crank? I thought we where good?
Shows you what I know
your always one step ahead of me arent you