You sold the 65?
That truck was badass,But i like the new one.Back on topic....Did the injectors help?
Engine wont start - no fuel pressure
- Thread starter mick
- Start date
You sold the 65?
That truck was badass,But i like the new one.Back on topic....Did the injectors help?
You sold the 65?
Back on topic....Did the injectors help?
It was hard letting the 65 go Simon, but I have to spend my time on the Big Red one. I want to get the Diesel Drags going here and too many projects means not enough time to concentrate in that area.
Should have injectors in this week. Then loking to see if it will start or we still have another problem ......
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Even you think my nozzles are not good ... anyhow ... Rail pressure sensor works from 0.5V - 4.5V ... 0 - 1800 bar ... When the ECU sees 0.1V 0.2V it is under the limit and shuts the VCV off that means you don't get any fuel in the rail and also not in the engine. When you get white smoke your pump is working correctly. You have to see 0.5V over orange and brown at engine stop!!!
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Id like to think they were good Volka but how would you feel being supplied a brand new built engine that cost me app US$30,000 with your brand new 10 hole injectors to find 2 dud ones right off the bat? Here is a pic of the exhaust port of the worst one. I couldnt get any answers from you or the engine builder. Thanks for the other information though, I hope its better than the injectors :hug:
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WOW Mick, that looks terrible i am very sorry to hear that. It sure is a shame when parts fail especially when these incidents can be avoided by proper testing
Hope all goes well, bad machine ya got there!
Obviously, the diesel bug has bitten you, but how big is the diesel scene in Oz? Always wondered Id love to visit Australia someday! I know rotarys are big, love them! I wouldnt mind having a wicked RB30 VL too
Obviously, the diesel bug has bitten you, but how big is the diesel scene in Oz? Always wondered
Id love to visit Australia someday! I know rotarys are big, love them! I wouldnt mind having a wicked RB30 VL too
I'm sorry to hear that, but I didn't assembled the nozzles on the injectors and I'll find out what happens. Please don't tell me that we didn't try to help you to find out what the problem is/was. I was on the phone with your tuner for hours, and sometimes middle in the night. If I didn't took the phone at midnight on a Saturday, I'm sorry, but sometimes I have some private time.
BTW, I didn't have any nozzles failures yet and if you want, please send me these nozzles/injectors back and I will test them, that's all what I can offer you.
But you have still an other problem, that means your wires are wrong and your ECU doesn't see any pressure ... it has to read at least 0.5V ... otherwise your engine will not run.
WOW Mick, that looks terrible i am very sorry to hear that. It sure is a shame when parts fail especially when these incidents can be avoided by proper testing
Paint: It was not requested by the customer, by request I let them tested, and balanced ...
This is the tuner Volker and don't sound so innocent here bud. Hours, I don't think so. I really don't care to go into detail each of our few conversations. It could not be a good thing.
Your customer, for the injectors, was the builder. Can't be Micks fault, he didn't know that option was available.
15,000 miles and 16 hour time zone -{ with a call anytime [ from you ] }- makes it hard for hands on tech support so with this.......
No call back from messages left.... We even had to try and get folks who had tried { for their experience } to tune your injectors help. So, since this is not a pissing match.......
As far as adding to the frustration, the engine was to be started, run in and dynoed by the builder. This was to help with above statements, you were just a piece of the pie........
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Let's get the truck running here guys, rather than point fingers.:hug:
If an injector wire is pinched under the valve covers, it should still start, it just goes in a limp mode and shuts down certain cylinders IIRC. I had it happen once and it sounds like an old farm tractor at idle. Plus we got a P1261 or 1262 code in EFI Live.
I am racking my brain trying to figure out what your issue is because I know we dealt with the same thing at one time (if there is a fuel system issue, my orange truck has been bit by it in one way or another). You have checked all grounds? Tried another FICM?
We had bad injectors and it still would start and run, but our rail pressure maxed at 13k with both pumps unplugged.
If an injector wire is pinched under the valve covers, it should still start, it just goes in a limp mode and shuts down certain cylinders IIRC. I had it happen once and it sounds like an old farm tractor at idle. Plus we got a P1261 or 1262 code in EFI Live.
I am racking my brain trying to figure out what your issue is because I know we dealt with the same thing at one time (if there is a fuel system issue, my orange truck has been bit by it in one way or another
). You have checked all grounds? Tried another FICM? We had bad injectors and it still would start and run, but our rail pressure maxed at 13k with both pumps unplugged.
there has to be some reason that its not building rail pressure.
Its not that complicated (as far as what the engine needs to make fuel psi), I dont know why everyone is suggesting running around checking silly unrelated things like the CPS and CKP (which can prevent the engine from firing, but will NOT prevent a build in rail pressure). Its nice that everyone is trying to help, but all this random guessing hasnt really gotten anyone anywhere.
No, im not being the know-it-all and not pretending I know how to fix it, I dont, but thats just my observation in having read this entire thread.
ben
Its not that complicated (as far as what the engine needs to make fuel psi), I dont know why everyone is suggesting running around checking silly unrelated things like the CPS and CKP (which can prevent the engine from firing, but will NOT prevent a build in rail pressure). Its nice that everyone is trying to help, but all this random guessing hasnt really gotten anyone anywhere.
No, im not being the know-it-all and not pretending I know how to fix it, I dont, but thats just my observation in having read this entire thread.
ben
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Let's get the truck running here guys, rather than point fingers.:hug:
If an injector wire is pinched under the valve covers, it should still start, it just goes in a limp mode and shuts down certain cylinders IIRC. I had it happen once and it sounds like an old farm tractor at idle. Plus we got a P1261 or 1262 code in EFI Live.
I am racking my brain trying to figure out what your issue is because I know we dealt with the same thing at one time (if there is a fuel system issue, my orange truck has been bit by it in one way or another
We had bad injectors and it still would start and run, but our rail pressure maxed at 13k with both pumps unplugged.
Believe me, we are all trying to help get this truck running and pointing out comments is only a small part of the frustrations. These are just answers to comments, any real pointing will be left out but understand this has been a half year long ordeal. Defending is natural.
As mentioned, with pictures to indicate, the injectors had issues and were swappped to eliminate those completely. With Pat, Jneal and Fingers fuel system explanation, we should find fuel pressure building as the engine is cranked over, it's not building so we are moving on to find why.
Thanks Ben and no problems with your comments. We are asking for help because we can't fix it either. We are frustrated and can't think straight. Since we asked for help, we have to take pretty much all suggestions and try them just so we can check them off.
As you and countless other folks have mentioned, we should be getting pressure. So now the injectors have been changed with the two leaky ones replaced, it still will not build pressure. We have lots of volume and 10+ psi to the cp3 pumps. Both are connected properly. As Pat suggested we checked return to the tank and have just a tiny amount. His fuel pressure regulator has not popped and is not stuck open. No return through it. He can't find any signs of leaky injector to rail fittings.
So, ?
Is there a smiley of a bald guy with hair all around at his feet?
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As I already stated ... measure the voltage between brown (plus) - orange (negative) you NEED 0.5V (equal 0 PSI or 0 bar) otherwise your ECU sees an error (> 0.49V = error ) and will not work, closes the VCV on the CP3.
Unplug rail pressure sensor and meassure all 3 variables:
yellow - orange: 5V
yellow - brown: 4.5V
orange brown: 0.5V
Try to measure with the sensor on and with out it. When you get with the sensor 0.1 V ... 0.2V then the sensor might broke, If you measure without sensor 0.1V ... 0.2V then the wiring harness has a defect.
If you don't have return flow on the CP3 pump, that means the pump doesn't flow at all and not even the internal lift pump work.
With Mick's tester in an earlier post he commented he had 5v 5v and .2 volts respectively. According to his literature those numbers were good. We are under the impression the little bit of return to the tank is that returning through the pump.
We'll check again when he can but it will be 10pm or later so this process is kinda slow.
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Electrically, you need these before the engine will attempt to fire:
Crank Signal
Cam Signal
Fuel Pressure in rail
Voltage to the injectors. (they fire by grounding the injector)
Crank Signal
Cam Signal
Fuel Pressure in rail
Voltage to the injectors. (they fire by grounding the injector)
0% PWM ==> VCV fully open
100% PWM closed ==> VCV closed
see attachment ... eventually 250 Hz
