Hello all and firstly, many thanks for the top notch guidance I have received from other posts as well as the guidance from high end engine builders and mechanics.
I am in deep on an LBZ build with the goals of an enduring engine with strong fuel economy and the tuning options of higher than the basic 500-600hp safe zone.
I have an LBZ with about 76K on a non modified, easily worked farm truck, and from my disassembly and inspection it is matching. I am shooting for a max possibility of 800hp on very rare occassions in my Hummer H1(no sled pulling or drags, less the local red light rice burner kids here and there). Just ordered PPE 16.5:1 Mahle performance pack pistons and Carrillo rods. Running a Garrett GT4088R solo. I have dropped the block off today at a trustworthy machine shop who will be clean and fluxing for $100 and boring over to .020 and replacing the cam bearings for $250. They suggested two highly recommended additional options for the LBZ, a heavier block. I'm looking for knowable guidance on lasting, performing rebuilds.
Firstly, they recommended an additional "pressure test" of 80psi to look for pinholes from the water jacket side and from the cylinder side. I asked PPE and they said it was not a concern with the harder, heavier LBZ. I have not heard of the need for this during other builds on various forums and sources, and remember, my engine is low mileage, low wear, high compression (380-400psi per cylinder) and was not needing ra rebuild less my desire to make it heavy duty for higher torque/HP capable possibilities. Does anyone have any input on this PSI check specifically?
My second machine shop recommendation, when I told them I had ARP main studs on the factory main caps was their absolute recommendation for me to have a "Line Bore" done for the crank journals, or stick with the factory bolts. The owner admittedly said there was a D-max guy in here last week with his build that the block owner measured and stated he did not need the line bore done as the studs did not distort the lobes out of specs. I have no plans of going in an additional grand for this only to have to then get eccentric bearings to fit my factory crank and hope it holds evenly all the way around. I do plan on having them do the engine balance once I even up the weights on the PPE PerformancePak piston kit and Carrillos.
lastly, I was looking at going with the harder Clevite "H" or even better, "HK" vice "P" in the standard size for bearings for the crank, rods, and cam. Any experienced words on this to help me with the forever lasting engine? Thanks very much for all of your help.
Ralph
I am in deep on an LBZ build with the goals of an enduring engine with strong fuel economy and the tuning options of higher than the basic 500-600hp safe zone.
I have an LBZ with about 76K on a non modified, easily worked farm truck, and from my disassembly and inspection it is matching. I am shooting for a max possibility of 800hp on very rare occassions in my Hummer H1(no sled pulling or drags, less the local red light rice burner kids here and there). Just ordered PPE 16.5:1 Mahle performance pack pistons and Carrillo rods. Running a Garrett GT4088R solo. I have dropped the block off today at a trustworthy machine shop who will be clean and fluxing for $100 and boring over to .020 and replacing the cam bearings for $250. They suggested two highly recommended additional options for the LBZ, a heavier block. I'm looking for knowable guidance on lasting, performing rebuilds.
Firstly, they recommended an additional "pressure test" of 80psi to look for pinholes from the water jacket side and from the cylinder side. I asked PPE and they said it was not a concern with the harder, heavier LBZ. I have not heard of the need for this during other builds on various forums and sources, and remember, my engine is low mileage, low wear, high compression (380-400psi per cylinder) and was not needing ra rebuild less my desire to make it heavy duty for higher torque/HP capable possibilities. Does anyone have any input on this PSI check specifically?
My second machine shop recommendation, when I told them I had ARP main studs on the factory main caps was their absolute recommendation for me to have a "Line Bore" done for the crank journals, or stick with the factory bolts. The owner admittedly said there was a D-max guy in here last week with his build that the block owner measured and stated he did not need the line bore done as the studs did not distort the lobes out of specs. I have no plans of going in an additional grand for this only to have to then get eccentric bearings to fit my factory crank and hope it holds evenly all the way around. I do plan on having them do the engine balance once I even up the weights on the PPE PerformancePak piston kit and Carrillos.
lastly, I was looking at going with the harder Clevite "H" or even better, "HK" vice "P" in the standard size for bearings for the crank, rods, and cam. Any experienced words on this to help me with the forever lasting engine? Thanks very much for all of your help.
Ralph
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