Dual Fueler issues, HELP!!

[rfletes79]

Just finished up a custom dual fueler kit for the chevelle. Used an older used PPE 01-05 controller and some of their lines for the kit. This is a low mount bracket we made in house to keep the hood on and used the factory LB7 fuel distribution block with fps and a factory LB7 line to connect the second pump to the fuel rail. Electronically I run an LB7 ecm E54, PPE dual fueler controller, S&S 12 mil in the valley and a stock LLY pump on the belt. I cannot for the life of me get it to regulate fuel pressure correctly. It idles at 160mpa (23k psi) 99.9% of the time. I haven't driven the car yet due to this, with the dual pumps working. I can remove the pulley off the second pump, remove my idler and run a stock belt and it works fine with the 12mm and all the ppe controls connected work without any issues, but as soon as I put the belt on the second pump it shits the bed.

I've swapped out the controller and wiring for another 01-05 PPE controller, same issue.

I've tried 2 different regulators on the belt driven pump, both bosch oem new, one lb7 and one lly, same result. I did get it to run correctly once right after the LLY reg install, was short lived as after turning the car off and refire it was maxed out again.

I installed a new bosch lb7 reg on the 12 mil pump and the belt driven pump, both now with the same stock lb7 regulators and still same issue.

I reinstalled the lly reg back on the belt driven pump and it worked!! but again once I cycled the key it maxed rail pressure. And stays maxed after every key cycle.

I've even changed out the belt driven pump to a different known good one and same result, maxed pressure.

I even cut the connector off the dual pump (fpr connector), installed a brand new one and same result.

I've changed my tuning, B1010 table and all the other fuel pressure related tables but no change. Normally we do nothing in the tune for dual fueler setups, so I returned all my tables back to stock, but same result maxed pressure.

I must be missing something or this ppe controller will just not cut it?? Hoping someone can chime in with similar experience or a good solution. I want this thing to work.

Rick.

 

[2004LB7]

Have you tried commending pressure with the DVT controls? What is the desired control current vs actual when it running?

 

[rfletes79]

I haven’t tried dvt controls.

Depending on engine temp desired varies from 40-49mpa. As it warms up it’ll settle in at 40 desired, which is where I’ve had it set for some time now (years). Actual is about 160mpa and goes up with throttle input.


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[2004LB7]

40mAmp is really low. That's basically full pressure. Less current = higher pressure. I don't remember the exact number off the top of my head I thought it should be closer to 1000 - 1500 mA during idle.

 

[rfletes79]

Sorry misread your question before.

Current is set at 1800 mil amp for idle and is getting that according to the log. I’ve varied this from 1500, which is stock for an lb7 to as high as 2000m-amp.


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[Chevy1925]

seems like power or amperage is dropping out. May need to back probe the connectors and see if it’s a connection issue or the controller. A scope would be real handy on this

 

[rfletes79]

I’ll have to look into this.


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[2004LB7]

How's the 12v supply and ground to the PPE controller?

 

[rfletes79]

It’s good, checked multiple times and moved it (just in case).


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[DAVe3283]

It sure sounds like the PPE controller isn't sending enough current to the 2nd pump. But what are the odds of 2 of them being bad?

Can you measure the current going into the 2nd pump with a multimeter? You'd have to cut one of the wires to the regulator and put the meter in-line, or dig up a DC current clamp if you don't want to cut into it. If the 2nd pump is getting 1500 mA or more, double check the stock regulator is also getting the 1500+ mA.

 

[2004LB7]

It sure sounds like the PPE controller isn't sending enough current to the 2nd pump. But what are the odds of 2 of them being bad?

Can you measure the current going into the 2nd pump with a multimeter? You'd have to cut one of the wires to the regulator and put the meter in-line, or dig up a DC current clamp if you don't want to cut into it. If the 2nd pump is getting 1500 mA or more, double check the stock regulator is also getting the 1500+ mA.

Some meters will freak out or display the wrong information as it's a PWM signal that controls the regulator. I wouldn't rely too much on the actual reading but it will probably give some idea if it's high or low

Best to use a scope as James mentioned already. But not everyone has one

 

[rfletes79]

I’m going to look into these options. And possible try a different brand controller.


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[Chevy1925]

I’m going to look into these options. And possible try a different brand controller.


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If fish still makes his, that would be a sleek little option

 

[Bdsankey]

If fish still makes his, that would be a sleek little option

They still do. I've had pretty darn good luck with the PPE and Fish controllers. They seem to be the most true to commanded output (IE no funny business added to the signal from the ecm) from what I've seen.