Dual Fuel maxing rail at Idle

[CaptPhil]

I bought Nick Murdocks built truck a few weeks ago, havent gone down to pick it up yet since I had to come back to Korea for work. He started it to take it to the paint shop to get the roll pan sprayed and upon startup it went straight to max rail.

Truck has a stock CP3 in the valley and an Industrial 85% up top, PPE controller.

He pulled off the top CP3 and put a good known stocker in its place, still the same. changed the FPR of the top pump, no change. Put another PPE controller on which also didnt fix it.

Put the stock belt on, unplugged the dual controller and ran it off the stock pump in the valley, and rail pressure was perfect. THis is the way it currently sits.

He said he tested the controller voltage and it all tested out fine. Fuse is good. In my opinion it has to be a ground problem or a bad connection since it runs fine on a single pump. Cant be the controller because he swapped it out with another one and it still did it.

Hopefully he chimes in when he sees this.

 

[dmax711]

I've checked power and grounds, I literally have swapped everything and have been tearing my hair out all day.

 

[MD_Max]

Hopefully you guys get this figured out. Capt phil when you run it up at cecil I'd love to see that thing!

 

[MaxPowerLB7]

Maybe try stock belt and dual controller and see how that behaves.

 

[CaptPhil]

Hopefully you guys get this figured out. Capt phil when you run it up at cecil I'd love to see that thing!

I hope we get it figured out as well. I am flying in Friday and flying down to NC to pick it up Sunday.

I plan on running it a few 1/8th mile hits to see how it reacts then go for a full pass and get kicked out (hopefully anyway).

 

[tripleturbo]

A little off topic but what are you doing in Korea lol

 

[CaptPhil]

A little off topic but what are you doing in Korea lol

I work on a drillship, we are building a new one over here now. Work 28 days on / 28 off. Fly back and forth each month. #drillionaire :woott:

 

[redws6rocket]

Does it have a power and ground at the battery and then a key on power like my ats controller? When we put my truck together it did the same, the terminals in the fuse box under the hood were spread out. We fixed that and fixed my issue, hope that helps?

 

[dmax711]

Does it have a power and ground at the battery and then a key on power like my ats controller? When we put my truck together it did the same, the terminals in the fuse box under the hood were spread out. We fixed that and fixed my issue, hope that helps?

Like I said I have tested everything, I'm getting voltage at the plugs that go to the fpr's . So that means ground and power are good..depending how long body shop has it I may take valley pump out. I really don't know what else it could be at this point.

 

[Fingers]

Those circuits are ground switched. That is, you will always have +12 but the ground is fluttered to control the FPR. What you really need is a scope to look at the signal across the FPR. Failing that, measure the voltage across the FPR terminals with the engine idling. (FPR connected)You should see about 4-6 Volts.

To get out of jail for now, return the belt routing to stock and only run the valley pump.

 

[dmax711]

Those circuits are ground switched. That is, you will always have +12 but the ground is fluttered to control the FPR. What you really need is a scope to look at the signal across the FPR. Failing that, measure the voltage across the FPR terminals with the engine idling. (FPR connected)You should see about 4-6 Volts.

To get out of jail for now, return the belt routing to stock and only run the valley pump.

I have it running on valley pump for now, thanks I will try measuring voltage with regulators hooked up. Before I tested them unhooked .i also did not know the ground was used to control it.

 

[DieselmafiaLLY]

Try cleaning all the terminals. I has similar issues and checked all voltages and ground all looked good. I got po'd so took harness off cleaned with dielectric cleaner and made sure ground was perfect. Has ran great ever since

 

[b_r_a_d_79]

It sounds like to me something is wrong with the controller. I know you said you swapped out the controller but the reason I say that it sounds like the controller is because if you run the stock pump in the valley by its self without the controller and runs fine then your getting correct voltage from the ecm. But when the dual controller is hooked up its running max psi then its sending incorrect voltage after the controller.

 

[andy-stevenson]

Like I said I have tested everything, I'm getting voltage at the plugs that go to the fpr's . So that means ground and power are good..depending how long body shop has it I may take valley pump out. I really don't know what else it could be at this point.

Why would you pull the valley pump if it runs fine with only the valley pump?

 

[CaptPhil]

I picked up the truck with it just running on the single valley pump. Planning on diving into this tomorrow, Reinstalling the Controller entirely and seeing what I can figure out.

I will say that it pulls crazy hard even though the single pump doesn't even come close to keeping up.

 

[CaptPhil]

OK so reinstalled the controller, plugged it up and left the stock belt on, rail was perfect. Put the long belt on and rail maxed out. So it appears that the top pump isn't getting any power.

Bad controller?

 

[DieselmafiaLLY]

Who's controller?

 

[CaptPhil]

Ppe. Tested voltage at idle. Valley pump is getting 4.5v, top pump isn't getting anything. Pulled the harness apart, the wires look fine.

 

[CaptPhil]

New fingers controller and all is good. Junk ppe controller.

 

[Robby05]

Glad you got it figured out. That truck looks like a beast