Drivers side motor mount

Mike

hmmm....
Feb 17, 2007
2,184
0
36
San Angelo, TX
I've installed the A5k. Pretty easy swap out, just a few modifications and I was finished. That is the positive, now for the negative. Test drove the truck and now I've discovered an extra clunk I didn't have before. I stood on the go pedal and wow I was gone but not before I felt the engine hop just before the left front come up a little more than usual, you know spring travel. The ride was fine, but since I've installed the turbo in such a high location, The turbine housing kissed the firewall. After carefully and cautiously asking the wife to hold the brake and gas at the same time. :eek: I noticed the engine lift up for what seemed like a mile.

My question is, Is this normal for a motor mount to give after a while and since I will have to replace it, is there a better mount available. I would like to stop future troubles at the pass. In my big block chevy racing days, I would simply bolt a chain from the engine to the frame. Or just use bailing wire.

Any suggestions?
 

02freighttrain

Team Salad Bartender
Aug 13, 2006
911
0
0
sootville, Fl
I've installed the A5k. Pretty easy swap out, just a few modifications and I was finished. That is the positive, now for the negative. Test drove the truck and now I've discovered an extra clunk I didn't have before. I stood on the go pedal and wow I was gone but not before I felt the engine hop just before the left front come up a little more than usual, you know spring travel. The ride was fine, but since I've installed the turbo in such a high location, The turbine housing kissed the firewall. After carefully and cautiously asking the wife to hold the brake and gas at the same time. :eek: I noticed the engine lift up for what seemed like a mile.

My question is, Is this normal for a motor mount to give after a while and since I will have to replace it, is there a better mount available. I would like to stop future troubles at the pass. In my big block chevy racing days, I would simply bolt a chain from the engine to the frame. Or just use bailing wire.

Any suggestions?

I noticed a lot of guy's were running solid mounts at the Mrechant event. I still have my stock mounts, although it's on the "to do" list. I would say you should talk to Eric or Pat and see what they are doing. I never could understand how the stock mounts could hold the torque levels that can be developed with a modified motor. If anyone has photos of a modified mount, Please post. Thanks
 

Mike

hmmm....
Feb 17, 2007
2,184
0
36
San Angelo, TX
I noticed a lot of guy's were running solid mounts at the Mrechant event. I still have my stock mounts, although it's on the "to do" list. I would say you should talk to Eric or Pat and see what they are doing. I never could understand how the stock mounts could hold the torque levels that can be developed with a modified motor. If anyone has photos of a modified mount, Please post. Thanks


Solid mounts :eek: how bad is the road noise? Or is there a sacrifice to make for the torque?

Thanks for the input.

Later
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jul 2, 2007
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limiting strap or better mounts would be my suggestion. and a tc brace
 

Mike

hmmm....
Feb 17, 2007
2,184
0
36
San Angelo, TX
Mighty fine suggestions Diesel Pilot and LBZ. Crap, I won't get any sleep for a couple of nights now.

I wonder though, are the mounts just bad or are they just weak?

Thanks
Mike
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jul 2, 2007
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Mr. Pat would be the expert to answer this question I reckon.

MO, stock mounts aren't made for 500+ HP!!!

I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread though-I would like to see what they are doing!!
 
Last edited:

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
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Lawrenceburg, KY
I know Eric Merchant broke his mount in Indy this year. Not sure what his resolve was though. You may ask him, as was mentioned earlier in this thread.

C-ya
 

dmaxalliTech

Shop Rat
Aug 28, 2006
129
0
0
I have solid mounts in mine. Took the stock mounts and welded the two halves togather with some plate. You can feel it in the cab, its not as isolated as before. I guess thats just part of the sacrifice of having a 800 hp daily driver
 

TxChristopher

Sometimes Helpful
Feb 8, 2007
70
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0
I used to take the small block chevy mounts and drill through the center of them and then snug down a 3/8ths bolt with a locknut. Never broke one after that, and the vibration was not an issue. ;)
 

JOHNBOY

< Rocking the Big Single!
Aug 30, 2006
2,159
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0
Saegertown, Pa
I think TX is doing what I did on my GN. Dril thru the complete mount and put a bolt thru it. I used a crimp lock nut on the end of the bolt. Just tightened till it touched. Make sense?
 

Mike

hmmm....
Feb 17, 2007
2,184
0
36
San Angelo, TX
I think TX is doing what I did on my GN. Dril thru the complete mount and put a bolt thru it. I used a crimp lock nut on the end of the bolt. Just tightened till it touched. Make sense?

Hello John

Thank you kindly, I now understand. Yes, makes since.

Mike
 

JOHNBOY

< Rocking the Big Single!
Aug 30, 2006
2,159
0
0
Saegertown, Pa
It works nice. When the one pulls up tight it compresses the other so vibration damping is not really effected

Workes nice for holding 22R mounts together also when large quanities of N2O are being applied!:rofl:
 

TxChristopher

Sometimes Helpful
Feb 8, 2007
70
0
0
I think TX is doing what I did on my GN. Dril thru the complete mount and put a bolt thru it. I used a crimp lock nut on the end of the bolt. Just tightened till it touched. Make sense?

Exactly. Don't compress the mount, just snug the bolt down so it limits possible seperation of the rubber in the mount. Thats what breaks the mount. I never broke a mount after modding them in this fashion, a grade 8 3/8ths bolt has huge shear strength, when combined with the existing mount strength, its darned strong.