Went to a pull yesterday afternoon and my buddy broke his driver side CV. My other buddy twisted his driveshaft into a pretzel. Just curious what people are doing to beef up the driveline in these trucks. I haven't had an issue but every time it hops on a launch, I am waiting for a bang lol. Does anyone make a stouter front axle?
Driveline Modifications??
- Thread starter TROJAN366
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If its a drive line its just a fluke. These trucks have some of the strongest driveshafts on the market.. but a CV could be because of the angle...
fwiw I got an HD CV axle from rock auto or Napa can't remember and it was garbage it lasted a week, its replacement lasted 2 months and then traded that for just a regular one and goin on 3 years
And this is all with never pulled a sled
fwiw I got an HD CV axle from rock auto or Napa can't remember and it was garbage it lasted a week, its replacement lasted 2 months and then traded that for just a regular one and goin on 3 years
And this is all with never pulled a sled
My truck has done some wild stuff leaving the line before too. I never lift. But idk how long it will keep doing it haha.
His angles were great. Stock keys with the bolts taken out. Very well could have been a fluke. Just figured I would ask since I don't see many of these threads. Its an area I don't know much about.
Everything has a weak spot. I sheared a CV with no boost just trying to spool the charger. These driveshafts are pretty weak when traction is finally achieved...
Jeremy popped his CV the second he roled into the throttle. He got some heat into the charger and rolled off the brake. Wheels never even spun. Just snapped the shaft. Casey's driveshaft was a different story. Truck started hopping and he just stayed in the man pedal lol
if a driveshaft has any kind of ding, dent, or bad imperfection in it, its significantly weakened and will likely bend, twist around this spot. you learn this very quickly rock crawling lol.
that said, im still on my factory CVs from 01 (changed the outer boots when they tore) and factory driveshaft with new u-joint in it. i use to beat the piss out of my truck off road with the lift cranked all the way up (bad bad cv angles) and never hurt a CV. Im more worried about blowing the t-case now more than anything
that said, im still on my factory CVs from 01 (changed the outer boots when they tore) and factory driveshaft with new u-joint in it. i use to beat the piss out of my truck off road with the lift cranked all the way up (bad bad cv angles) and never hurt a CV. Im more worried about blowing the t-case now more than anything
If your going to upgrade the driveshaft's I suggest going with the bigger 1480 u-joint yokes. I had a 3 inch driveshaft on my reg cab Ended up twisting it and it took out everything. Now I run a 4 inch driveshaft with a way thicker wall. When I ordered a new pinion yoke, I went with a 1480 out of a newer truck. Its night and day difference on size. With you 4 wheel drive guys its easy to find a 1480 slip yoke unlike us 2wd guys.
did some of our trucks come with 1480 ujoints from the factory? because i was measuring mine for kicks when i changed my carrier bearing and it was 1.375 inches. i just figured they all had 1410 ujoints. and to the op, i have seen upgraded cv shafts before but they were for 06 and up trucks. i personally have trouble coming off the line with the zf and have taken some really bad hops, skips, and jumps. and have heard some really bad pops come from under my truck, but havent broken anything yet. but i have seen guys with one piece aluminum shafts with 1480's in them brake there shafts a couple weeks in a row
I don't know for sure but I kind of assumed that after I measured mine, because I have found in the past that manual transmission trucks seem to have a little bit better driveline in them. I am pretty excited now though
The driveshaft in my truck is a steel spicer unit not aluminum, did certain trucks come with aluminum? Also what about rear axles at what point should they be upgraded and upgraded to a better 30 spline or 38?
Im pretty sure the ccsb were all aluminum and the cclb were all two piece steel
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Early CC/SB have a two piece steel driveshafts. You can cut the carrier bearing out and use the newer 1 piece ones.