Custom front bumber.

king44481

king44481

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Apr 29, 2015
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So I was BSing with my boss at work today. Was telling him I'm gonna get an ironcross bumper. He told me to hell with that and he and I can fab one up. Long story short... how thick should I go? 1/4 inch? 1/2inch? 3/8inch?

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clrussell

clrussell

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Sep 23, 2013
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3/16" is more than enough.. Go 1/2" on the mounting points


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gmasko

gmasko

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Jun 14, 2014
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Got 1/4" hot rolled steel all the around on mine and no doubt its solid, but at that point it gets pretty heavy so x2 clrussell.

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gmasko

gmasko

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Also when you create a mount bracket for the side mounts make sure you brace it well. My bumper bounces around a bit under the fenders.

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king44481

king44481

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gmasko said:
Also when you create a mount bracket for the side mounts make sure you brace it well. My bumper bounces around a bit under the fenders.

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If you get a chance can you post a few pics of the mounting brackets? I would really appreciate it. Or just pics in general would help

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gmasko

gmasko

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king44481 said:
Much appreciated

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Sure can. Need to pull it off to coat the inside anyways. Tomorrow if I get a chance. Keep in mind though, my brother built it going of a 1500 so there is a 2" height difference, but you'll get the point.

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king44481

king44481

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gmasko said:
Sure can. Need to pull it off to coat the inside anyways. Tomorrow if I get a chance. Keep in mind though, my brother built it going of a 1500 so there is a 2" height difference, but you'll get the point.

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That's all I need is just something to eyeball to get an idea. Thank you much

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jacobdewey

jacobdewey

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Before you put too much effort into it, check out move bumpers. They are pretty cheap diy kits.
 
frankenstien

frankenstien

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May 25, 2015
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Fairbanks,Alaska
As said earlier, 3/16" is good, use thicker for the mounting points. I used scrap from around the shop, used 3/8-1/4-1/8 and some schedule 80 pipe, ended up at 227lbs.

Mine sagged about 1-1.5" so kerp in mind you might have to crank the T bars to keep the current front ride hieght
 
king44481

king44481

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frankenstien said:
As said earlier, 3/16" is good, use thicker for the mounting points. I used scrap from around the shop, used 3/8-1/4-1/8 and some schedule 80 pipe, ended up at 227lbs.

Mine sagged about 1-1.5" so kerp in mind you might have to crank the T bars to keep the current front ride hieght
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I'll be getting brand new steel. If I have to take it in to get bent that is fine with me. And I hope I don't have to go cranking on the bars.. But if so, I'll just sip on my beer and do it

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king44481

king44481

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Just some before pictures

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gaphillips75

gaphillips75

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Jan 25, 2015
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Terre Haute, Indiana
I was going to build mine too. But after pricing out the metal it was cheaper to buy the iron cross frt and rear for what I was going to have in just the metal for the front.

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king44481

king44481

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gaphillips75 said:
I was going to build mine too. But after pricing out the metal it was cheaper to buy the iron cross frt and rear for what I was going to have in just the metal for the front.

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I'm looking at around 700 for everything including the powder coat. Not doing the rear...... yet anyways

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gaphillips75

gaphillips75

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Sounds like you can buy metal cheaper than around me or maybe metal has come down since I priced it. I was looking at 1200 in metal for just the front. I ended up buying my front with winch and rear for 1300. They had a sale going when I purchased them also.

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king44481

king44481

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gaphillips75 said:
Sounds like you can buy metal cheaper than around me or maybe metal has come down since I priced it. I was looking at 1200 in metal for just the front. I ended up buying my front with winch and rear for 1300. They had a sale going when I purchased them also.

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I'll be buying steel through the dairy I work at. We get good deals. Plus we buy tons of stainless every month

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