Can you cryo LBZ rods? I did not think it was possible until someone on another forum said he cryoed his LMMs...which I thought were the same rods!
Cryoed LBZ rods
- Thread starter 07nastymax
- Start date
Not to be negative but I would think if you went as far as that why not go with after market rods your not saveing much money or time plus you can make real power.
Sure you can, but why would you? I go back to the old saying "You can't polish a turd."
I would love to go with high performance rods but can not afford them at this point in time...not looking for anything over 600hp so I think strengthening them would do fine for me anyway...I just wanted to find out if it is possible to cryo the LBZ rods without any problems!
Should make them stronger in that critical area of where they bend in the general power place. Given the cost of custom rods makes sense to try and use your LMM rods for the build since you know that is all you want to do is run it in this 600 region. I'm looking for a script on what cyro does strenghwise after treatment. ATS cyro's critical parts and ever since seeing that I believe it's a benefit after reading the others who do it too in comp useage.......
Cryo can make a good part great. Cryo cannot make a marginal part good.
Your stock rods are made from an alloy that allows the cracking of the cap to save manufacturing costs. And they have a section size that's good for a bit more than the 360 HP that it was built for.
You cannot expect to improve your stock rods with cryo for 2 reasons:
1) the powder metal alloy used is not anything like 4340. Remember the article in the link that talks about conversion of austenite to martensite? Yeah, that's why martensitic steels react so well to cryo. Now ask yourself, how much martensite is in a powder metal rod with an alloy that does not even come close to resembling 4340, and is designed to crack?
2) If a part is suitably sized and you apply alternating stresses to it, at some point you will see fatigue failure. And cryo can help a good part go even longer because it helps delay the onset of fatigue damage. However, if your part is marginally sized, and it simply yields, then forget about fatigue...the part is already bent!
Cryoing a rod certainly won't hurt it, but it's going to give you about as much a benefit as painting a pinstripe on it.
Your stock rods are made from an alloy that allows the cracking of the cap to save manufacturing costs. And they have a section size that's good for a bit more than the 360 HP that it was built for.
You cannot expect to improve your stock rods with cryo for 2 reasons:
1) the powder metal alloy used is not anything like 4340. Remember the article in the link that talks about conversion of austenite to martensite? Yeah, that's why martensitic steels react so well to cryo. Now ask yourself, how much martensite is in a powder metal rod with an alloy that does not even come close to resembling 4340, and is designed to crack?
2) If a part is suitably sized and you apply alternating stresses to it, at some point you will see fatigue failure. And cryo can help a good part go even longer because it helps delay the onset of fatigue damage. However, if your part is marginally sized, and it simply yields, then forget about fatigue...the part is already bent!
Cryoing a rod certainly won't hurt it, but it's going to give you about as much a benefit as painting a pinstripe on it.
Should have done that to my first set of aftermarket rods.
What cryo'd or pinstriped?
What cryo'd or pinstriped?
Gotta go pinstripe, so it looks cool as it blows a window in the block:spit: