Combustion leak tester

[Veikra]

I have a weird issue that doesnt look exactly like headgaskets.

Can I use this tool or will it only work for cars with a cap directly on the radiator ?

http://blockchek.com/instructions.htm

I don't want to change Headgaskets unless 100% sure they are bad

 

[ripmf666]

Why not make a thread on what your trucks doing. Being a Lly if the upper hose is staying hard over night and you have already replaced the coolant cap. And checked the coolant lines going into the turbo and checked the heater core line on the firewall. And the coolant lines and egr cooler for leaks. There is also a little blocker plate on the rear housing between the Trans and the motor just below the up pipe and Trans dip stick these leak and cause issues looking like head gasket. Also with cap off any bubbles in the coolant tank.

 

[Veikra]

You brought up some things that I wasnt aware off.

the reason I didnt make a tread is I dont know where to make it. It's not really a build, it's not tuning either. I don't see a help wanted or general technical section

I'll explain the problem with my engine. Coolant level varies too much. Can go from full (cold) to too low (instrument popping low coolant level) .

-My upper radiator hose does not stay hard or get very hard. Even hot with the engine running I can compress it .
-The engine doesnt overheat, doesnt smoke, starts very easy.
-I have no bubbles coming out into the overflow bottle.
-I only add coolant when it puked, at least if the engine drinks any, it's not enough for me to notice it


The WEIRD WEIRD thing is the coolant could have gone up to normal range from running it. Then after engine has completely cooled down, stay up there for a day or two. Leave the truck alone for 2-3 days and the coolant has gone down to where it was before it was run.

What I have done:

-I have bypassed the heater core, with no difference. I blew into them to make sure there was no restriction. I did notice the heater core is in line with the egr cooler. Maybe the egr is blocked.

OH ! I forgot.
When I disconnected the heater core lines, there was air in one of them.

What I think is happening in short. The truck acts like the difference in coolant level is too big for the system. Air probably gets in the system and makes the level appear higher.

I have absolutely NO drivability issues. Drove 400km with a trailer and it didnt puke a single drop. Seems to have more variance of coolant level on shorter trips .

I'm puzzled. It could be headgaskets so I'd like to rule those out or confirm so I have time to change them while it's summer.

Meanwhile im gonna check:
-coolant lines going into the turbo (disconnect and blow in them to see restriction? )
-Block off plate behind engine

Let me know where to post the tread, I don't want to put it in the wrong place

 

[ripmf666]

Have you only added coolant once or do you have to keep adding ? Also the low coolant light its not uncommon for those to just pop on in these trucks crappy sensors. When I say if you upper hose is hard after running it and being parked for say 3 or so hours is it soft. Also need to get all the air out of the system. When we fill them in the factory we vac it all down and shoot the coolant in. On top of the thermostat housing there is a bolt to purge the air out. Get the truck up to temp have the coolant tank filled to proper lever and loosen the bolt can remove just be safe not to drop it into the fan since the truck will be running and watch your fingers. Keep adding coolant to tank as needed. Once coolant is coming out of the thermostat housing bolt hole put bolt back in and cap back on. Also if you think you might have a leak and can not find it buy a die kit add die to coolant run the truck then use the black light to search for the leak.

 

[Veikra]

hose is completely soft less than 1h after the engine has been turned off.
I didnt see the bleeder screw, didnt know there was one. I'll try it. All the bolts looks the same, so is it the highest bolt at the front of the housing?