clunk in reverse and when I come to a complete stop

Righteyeblind

Member
Aug 29, 2008
712
0
16
Fairbanks, AK
So I get a bad clunk/jar when I am in reverse. Like when I am backing out of a parking spot and have my foot on the brake inching back it clunks/jars pretty hard. Also when I come to a complete stop you can feel a little clunk. Anyone ever experience something like this? It doesnt feel like the rearend but it could be.
Ideas please...
 

sparepartsracing

spareparts offroad&fab
Mar 17, 2010
773
0
0
34
i notice the same thing stoping do you have lowering shackles because i never had it before i installed them
 

sparepartsracing

spareparts offroad&fab
Mar 17, 2010
773
0
0
34
well sence i lifted mine it has gone away but it started when i installed the lowering shackles never understood what it was or honestly bothered
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
Check your ujoints for play Reece. Mine were clunking so I swapped them out. Cheapest easiest start.
 

Darius6t9

I'm the Floater. Lurking.
Aug 23, 2008
574
0
0
Rusk, Tx. Again
I have the same problem and I haven't lifted it yet. Kinda feels like my shop jack sliding to the front and hitting my toolbox.
And that is with a completely new driveline. U-joints and all.
 
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SteveFord

What's Next?
May 8, 2008
1,317
0
36
Iowa
My last 2 lb7's clunked in reverse at times. It would go away then sometimes come back. Never figured out what it was as all the joints and suspension was good. Both did it though after the truck/trucks got tuned. But my last lb7 it went away and didn't come back. Figured it was something within the tcm or os of the tcm.
 

Linden

Sparkplugs FTL
Dec 12, 2009
147
0
16
Florida
its the 2 piece drive shaft the play in the carrier bearing wears out you can replace the carrier bearing or swap out to a 04+ single shaft. there is a technical bulletin at the dealership on it.
 

Righteyeblind

Member
Aug 29, 2008
712
0
16
Fairbanks, AK
I checked my u-joints and my carrier bearing is fairly new. I will check the slip yoke. Just wondering if my trans is starting to die. Its also starting to 2-1 bang here and there. Maybe thats just cause I go back and forth from hot tune and tow tune every weekend when I pull my trailer. I will get under there and go through everything.
 

MACKIN

Smell My Finger...
Aug 14, 2006
3,948
1
0
Connecticut
I checked my u-joints and my carrier bearing is fairly new. I will check the slip yoke. Just wondering if my trans is starting to die. Its also starting to 2-1 bang here and there. Maybe thats just cause I go back and forth from hot tune and tow tune every weekend when I pull my trailer. I will get under there and go through everything.



Unless you really ramped up the power and beat'er I doubt you hurt it (well maybe you did) but you surely are confusing it by switching power levels as the transmission needs to adapt. That would explain erratic shifts but not a bang.
 

Righteyeblind

Member
Aug 29, 2008
712
0
16
Fairbanks, AK
Unless you really ramped up the power and beat'er I doubt you hurt it (well maybe you did) but you surely are confusing it by switching power levels as the transmission needs to adapt. That would explain erratic shifts but not a bang.

I know that it learns but it is tough to tow 12k with a s472 on 600hp tune. My trans has 80k on it. I dont have erratic shifts unless i am at the strip and 2-3 3-4 hang a touch but I think that is a not learned issue. Just a 2-1 bang around town is all I get on the street since I dont drive it hard on the street. Im going to check everything over after work so I can rule out the easy stuff.
 

1953drtelco

Member
Feb 24, 2010
223
0
16
Riverside, CA
Not sure if this is your problem, but I had the same symptoms in my DMAX before I lubed the splines. Below is what I read last year regarding this problem

Originally Posted by PLM-1
I'm trying to find the correct nickel slip yoke for my truck. I found part number 89058876 on another forum.

89058876 is the nickel slip yoke part number listed in TSB 01-04-17-004B for 2500HD/3500HD trucks with the Allison (from alldatadiy.com)

Date: January 05, 2005

Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke)

Condition: Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

Cause: A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

Correction
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke.

Follow the service procedure below.

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection. Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint. 3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange. 4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange. 5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal. 6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press. Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint. 7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers. 8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.
10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear. 11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke. 12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke. 13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint. 14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring. 15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections. 16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating. 17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information. 18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom. 20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear. 22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear. 23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups. 24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups. Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup. 25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup. 26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove. 27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place. 28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove. 30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case. 31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft. 32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft).
33. Lower the vehicle.
 
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Righteyeblind

Member
Aug 29, 2008
712
0
16
Fairbanks, AK
I still have to pull the driveshaft to check the slip yoke but u joints are good and I had so someone hold the brakes while going from reverse to drive and park to reverse. It looks like the rear end has a lot of play in it. I changed the diff fluid but didn't see a lot of metal on the magnet. By the way how many qts in the rear end? I put in 4 but it's just a bit below the fill plug.
 

JD4440

<< Lo-Carb Monster
Feb 27, 2009
1,776
1
0
Orlinda, TN
I did the same. mine had a bit of slack in the rear but a lot of mine was in the t-case. I had damn royal purple in the rear and it was grey when I drained it w/ 50k on it. :mad: