Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Didn't balance very well?



No, it balanced out great. These cranks are very heavy. I had 3 options, internally balance (means new balancer and flexplate needed), drill the crank to reduce weight or drill the flexplate/balancer to reduce weight. I preferred pulling the weight from the balancer/flexplate as that’s less mass rolling around at the ends of the crank. Downside is the balancer/flexplate are now a match set to the crank. BUT down the road if I feel like going internally balanced because I decide this motor is going into something else and will see more rpm, the crank can be balanced that way without needing anymore added mallory or tungsten from drilled counterweights.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
Started on the engine today. Verified everything I had the machine shop do and they were spot on. Had a tight bearing on the mains. Main 3 was at .0013 at its tightest where main 5 was at .0031. Swapped them around and dropped back to .0024 on 3 and .0025 on 5. Stayed right in the .0022 to .0025 through all 5. The rods were on the loose side at .0030. Seems Callie’s ran this crank on the rod journals at the smallest diameter gm specs for the journals. 2.4764. Piston to wall clearance is all at .0025-.0027 and rings gapped at .024 top, .022 bottom. Main studs were torqued to 225ft lbs. this is what Guy did on my other engine so I had the mains line honed at that torque. Thrust is at .005

All in her glory
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Even got the pass side piston/rods in before dinner
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See if we can get the valve covers on by end of the night tomorrow or farther :D :D
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
3,727
296
83
Boise, ID, USA
Woot!

You running the rings that loose because of the boost you plan to run, or the sustained heat on your crazy hill climbs? I set all mine quite a bit tighter (around 15 or 16 IIRC), but they're not the stainless rings, so who knows what they're at now LOL
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Pretty much. I’m building this with the intention of being able to hit well over 1000 without issue in the bottom end. Hence looser clearances, different oil, and the crank/piston change. Not looking to turn more rpm that 4500 either (assuming power band even gets that high in rpm). I’ve done a couple engines with these clearances and hey actually turned out to run real well on it. Blow by wasn’t bad at all and oil consumption was small (not stock by any means but little for the clearances)

my piston to wall clearance is waaaaay better than the .005 I measured with the old pistons in the old block :rofl:
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
Put a lot of work in yesterday. Ran into an issue with the cam gear. It lost two teeth at some point. Im betting from the damn whiny water pump I put in when I first built the engine. I had seen Johnny’s engine (Gasuout) do this before from a water pump. So I swapped in an lbz gear I had after redoing the bolt pattern for the reluctor off my lb7 gear.

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I’m going to verify air gap today and I believe timing is the same based on lbz reluctors I can find on the net

Continued assembly to the water pump where I knew I’d have to drill a new hole in block... but I didn’t. It all literally bolted right in. I know for a fact this a lbz block as it has the bosses for the fan shroud and it came from a stock truck. Maybe this was a early 06 and gm drilled the block for both pumps? No idea.

Got to this point last night

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Valves are lashed so it’s ready to get closed up on the top end. I’m taking a bit of a break today till after lunch.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,680
5,827
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Phoenix Az
Just a few hours on her today. Spent most of my time cleaning parts. Kinda wish I’d taken the intake clam shells off and clean them now. Cp3 was full of grease/oil/dirt. I guess 220k without cleaning it will do that.

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Limo looks pretty sad up front lol