Cam install in a gasser

[TIM Z]

I know most of you guys here are no strangers to gassers so i would like your help.

I bought a 1995 Tahoe sport with a T.B.I. 350 for my winter run around/everyday vehicle. Its a rust free southern truck.

I want more power / economy / performance from it, so im going to do a cam heads swap.

I bought a take out 97' suburban Vortec 350, i want to put the Vortec heads on my TBI motor.

Also while im swapping heads, i'll do a edelbrock vortec manifold and i want to swap in a Comp cams camshaft.

I have helped put a cam in my old truck , an 04 5.3 , that was cake, no having to remove the manifold, lifters,

I have not installed a camshaft in a gen 1 block, i know how it generally works but dont have hands on experience.

Are there any good manuals/ CD's that show EVERY STEP how to install a Hydraulic camshaft out there?

I have a 50/50 chance of this TBI engine bieng a factory Roller cam ( It seems GM made the cars Roller cam but kept the trucks Hydrualic cam but my block MIGHT have provisions to swap to roller cam, if it dores i will )


Sorry for the long post.

Im also concerned i might have to set valsh with installing new heads cam ??

 

[ZeroGravity58]

with hydraulic cams there is no valve lash like you have with solid cams. When you put the lifters back on you have to make sure the valve your adjusting is closed, put the nut on the rocker finger tight then put another 1/2-3/4 of a turn the the nut. Every chevy TBI motor i have pulled apart has had roller lifters and cam. If it does not then cross that bridge when you get to it because you would have to run diffrent lifters and a cam button.

 

[TIM Z]

with hydraulic cams there is no valve lash like you have with solid cams. When you put the lifters back on you have to make sure the valve your adjusting is closed, put the nut on the rocker finger tight then put another 1/2-3/4 of a turn the the nut. Every chevy TBI motor i have pulled apart has had roller lifters and cam. If it does not then cross that bridge when you get to it because you would have to run diffrent lifters and a cam button.

Thankyou for the info!

So i can slap the votec heads on, hopefully just throw a roller cam / timing chain in, and be good to go?

Im crossing my fingers its a roller but ive been told the trucks are hit or miss, so i guess i'll find out. Just wanted to order my cam and have all ready to go.

thanks again:coolspot:

 

[tylerrustLB7]

Thankyou for the info!

So i can slap the votec heads on, hopefully just throw a roller cam / timing chain in, and be good to go?

Im crossing my fingers its a roller but ive been told the trucks are hit or miss, so i guess i'll find out. Just wanted to order my cam and have all ready to go.

thanks again:coolspot:

what cam you going with?just wondering

 

[RPM Motorsports]

It's not hard to convert a non roller block either. You can use the stock roller spyder and tap a few small holes in the valley. It's a simple job!

Valve lash is simple. Rotate the motor & watch the two valves on the cylinder you want to adjust. When the exh. valve opens all the way or close to it, adjust the intake valve. Spin the push rod with your fingers while tightening the nut. When you feel friction you are at 0 lash. Give it 1/2-3/4 trun more and your done with that valve. Rotate the motor and do the same for the exhaust. There is an easyer way to do a few valves at a time, but I'll keep it simple for you.

 

[63chevyll]

the factor roller blocks will also have a cam thrust plate provision behind the cam gear, you will need that also if using a factory GM roller cam

About same here...actualy i personlay havent ran into a 94 roller, and Most were rollers in 95, but still hit and miss.

you can pull a valve cover in just a few min and see if its a roller.

I would recomend Comp's TBI cam. It works real well with heads/headers and a good coil. and egr.

Another thing, is you will have to fab a EGR tube from the exhaust Manifld to intake, as the Vortecs dont have EGR provisions

you will be limited by the PCM...in stock form, but if you want to get crazy you can have it flashed to your specific needs and delete EGR

 

[63chevyll]

i adjust valves by the compainion cylinder meathod also

 

[TIM Z]

It's not hard to convert a non roller block either. You can use the stock roller spyder and tap a few small holes in the valley. It's a simple job!

Valve lash is simple. Rotate the motor & watch the two valves on the cylinder you want to adjust. When the exh. valve opens all the way or close to it, adjust the intake valve. Spin the push rod with your fingers while tightening the nut. When you feel friction you are at 0 lash. Give it 1/2-3/4 trun more and your done with that valve. Rotate the motor and do the same for the exhaust. There is an easyer way to do a few valves at a time, but I'll keep it simple for you.

Thankyou for the explanation:thumb:

 

[TIM Z]

the factor roller blocks will also have a cam thrust plate provision behind the cam gear, you will need that also if using a factory GM roller cam

About same here...actualy i personlay havent ran into a 94 roller, and Most were rollers in 95, but still hit and miss.

you can pull a valve cover in just a few min and see if its a roller.

I would recomend Comp's TBI cam. It works real well with heads/headers and a good coil. and egr.

Another thing, is you will have to fab a EGR tube from the exhaust Manifld to intake, as the Vortecs dont have EGR provisions

you will be limited by the PCM...in stock form, but if you want to get crazy you can have it flashed to your specific needs and delete EGR

How can i tell by just pulling the valve cover? ( im at a blank)

Yep, going to use a comp cam 212 218 prob in roller config.

Also having TBI chips burn me a prom for the engine mods, they have done the same build So my tuning should be pretty close.

The heads, intake/ cam along with tuning and fuel PSI adjustment should net me a gain of 65-80 horse. ( stock is only 210 and roughly 160 at the wheels

 

[RPM Motorsports]

Pull a push rod and look down the hole, for the link bar on the lifters!

 

[63chevyll]

you dont even have to pull a push rod, just look down there with a flashlight, you will see a lifter retainer. (remember the roller push rods are shorter also)
if your gonna burn a chip you could delete EVAP and EGR in you dont want to mess with it

did a 406 TBI a while back and it screamed.....is a 89 K5 blazer, no lift all stock looking.

Hooker full length headers, Cast 400 crank, LT1 Rods, Speedpro Flat Tops, Vortecs,Adjustable FP regulator, w/GM intake, 454 injectors, No cats, 2.5 full system with Flowmasters.

Wasnt a roller, but used a Comp TBI cam and a custom Prom was burned a few times for it. Customer was pretty happy in the end

 

[TIM Z]

OK got ya, didnt know i could see the roller retainer thru the push rod hole! Awesome!

Yeah, going to delete the EGR and all emissions. No E check here.

Thanks again for all the info guys.:hug: :thumb:

I need something to play with while the weather sucks.

I just as soon pull the motor and slap a Gen III in it , but its miles arent bad and it runs nice, so a little better breathing is in order.


Man i'd like to ride in that 406 TBI motor, sounds like it was awesome.