Just my observations. Install was straightforward, but none of this was covered in the instructs or online.
1) Take the hitch off before you start. Easier to remove rear spring bolts that way.
2) You'll have to loosen the fuel tank to do the drivers side, so make sure you dont have a full tank.
You cant get the front DS bolt out if the tank is solidly mounted.
3) Easiest just to take the springs out to work on them. Heck, you're only one bolt away....
4) Easy way to remove old bushings without using a press (took about 15 minutes/side):
a) Use air chisel to "fold" the lips of the outer side of the bushing inward to its center.
b) Spray a bit of lube around the exposed bushing sides.
c) Pound a screwdriver or chisel into the space between the spring and the eye to use as a wedge to spread the eye open just a bit.
d) Use a handsledge and a 34mm socket on the folded-in side of the bushing and pound it out. I used a 36mm socket and it was a bit too large.
e) Dont use the sledge directly on the aluminum bushing to install. I used the large socket as an anvil and pounded around the edge of the socket to squarely push the bushing in. I also used a small bit of antiseize on the bushing. Worked great.
5) If you're planning on removing leaves from your springs while you're installing the caltracs, make sure you have 1" shorter grade8 bolts or springpak pins to replace the OEM ones.
6) I tightened both Ubolts at the same time to keep all 4 nuts equal on the bolts. I figured the bolts may "twist" if one nut was tightened farther than the other.
7) Not sure if this was necessary, but I jacked the axle up to add some preload to the bushings before I tightened them down.
8) Torque specs:
a) Front spring bolt -- 110ft/lbs
b) Rear spring bolt -- 70 ft/lbs
c) Ubolt nuts -- 110 ft/lbs
ON EDIT:
9) You will probably have to trim the sides off the plastic spacer on the front of the second leaf of the spring so the caltrac pivot can move freely.
10) Dont be surprised if the two sides arent threaded exactly the same when you fit the bar to the bracketry. My DS is fully screwed in, and still the pin rests on the spring, while my PS is threaded out about 1/4" just to make contact. I checked, and my axle isnt tweaked...truck isnt dog-tracking. Very odd...must have something to do with added weight on DS (fuel tank), same as the torsion bars.
Hope it helps someone.
1) Take the hitch off before you start. Easier to remove rear spring bolts that way.
2) You'll have to loosen the fuel tank to do the drivers side, so make sure you dont have a full tank.
You cant get the front DS bolt out if the tank is solidly mounted.3) Easiest just to take the springs out to work on them. Heck, you're only one bolt away....
4) Easy way to remove old bushings without using a press (took about 15 minutes/side):
a) Use air chisel to "fold" the lips of the outer side of the bushing inward to its center.
b) Spray a bit of lube around the exposed bushing sides.
c) Pound a screwdriver or chisel into the space between the spring and the eye to use as a wedge to spread the eye open just a bit.
d) Use a handsledge and a 34mm socket on the folded-in side of the bushing and pound it out. I used a 36mm socket and it was a bit too large.
e) Dont use the sledge directly on the aluminum bushing to install. I used the large socket as an anvil and pounded around the edge of the socket to squarely push the bushing in. I also used a small bit of antiseize on the bushing. Worked great.
5) If you're planning on removing leaves from your springs while you're installing the caltracs, make sure you have 1" shorter grade8 bolts or springpak pins to replace the OEM ones.
6) I tightened both Ubolts at the same time to keep all 4 nuts equal on the bolts. I figured the bolts may "twist" if one nut was tightened farther than the other.
7) Not sure if this was necessary, but I jacked the axle up to add some preload to the bushings before I tightened them down.
8) Torque specs:
a) Front spring bolt -- 110ft/lbs
b) Rear spring bolt -- 70 ft/lbs
c) Ubolt nuts -- 110 ft/lbs
ON EDIT:
9) You will probably have to trim the sides off the plastic spacer on the front of the second leaf of the spring so the caltrac pivot can move freely.
10) Dont be surprised if the two sides arent threaded exactly the same when you fit the bar to the bracketry. My DS is fully screwed in, and still the pin rests on the spring, while my PS is threaded out about 1/4" just to make contact. I checked, and my axle isnt tweaked...truck isnt dog-tracking. Very odd...must have something to do with added weight on DS (fuel tank), same as the torsion bars.
Hope it helps someone.
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