Building front end

[MaxComp88B]

I have a 2009 LMM CCSB. I have reverse leveled it and pulled a spring out the leaf pack and have de cranked the keys. I have bought the following
PPE Stage 3 Tie Rods
Kryptonite Hubs
Dmax Store Tubular Control Arms
I have bought all replacement hardwear and nuts and bolts.
I just put bilstien shocks under it 5000 miles ago so shocks are in good shape. What do you guys recommend me adding to the front end when I do the work. Obviously it isnt lifted so not near as much stress on the front end parts but I want to build the front end to be solid.

 

[PureHybrid]

I only have tie rods and a DHD steering brace. Seems to work fine, everything else is stock replacement type. IMO if you want the next level you need to buy the whole shebang from Kryptonite

 

[MaxComp88B]

Is Idler and pitman arm another weak link?

 

[PureHybrid]

Yes and no. They will flex, but the steering brace limits that by butting up against the front diff. If you're getting serious about 4x4 launches then I would upgrade, I'm still running the Moog HD replacement parts. Moog makes two different styles from what my auto parts guy said. The bulky pitman / idler setup is sweet but I'm not in a spot where I need to drop money on that, I'd rather upgrade the converter

 

[pl_silverado]

I mixed it up. Used a PPE Centerlink with OE Style Kryptonite tie rods, kryptonite idler and pitman arms, steersmarts idler with kryptonites weld in brace, and a PSC steering gear. Steering is tight! Absolutely zero regrets, wish I had done this sooner.

 

[MaxComp88B]

So im adding the weld in kryptonite brace. Only things left that I could add are pitman and idler arm and the support bracket. So about 600 bucks of stuff. For daily driving anyone recommend it or should I just stick with what Im doing? I don't do boosted launches but I have 20x12 wheels and I don't want to tear up the front end so I'm building it all to help it hold up to the -44 of offset from my wheels.

 

[PureHybrid]

Are you talking about the frame gusset?

 

[MaxComp88B]

Are you talking about the frame gusset?

Yes

 

[johnmyster]

Is Idler and pitman arm another weak link?

You see photos of broken pitmans on the internet, but I have a feeling their use/abuse case is different than mine and yours.

They are a wear item that wears even faster harder on lifted trucks where the tie rods are inclined, putting rotational forces on the center link. Ultimately that wear results in vague steering and lane wandering when the pitman is sloppy and inability to hold toe in/out once the center link rotation is excessive.

If you're going through the trouble to weld in a idler support brace, I'm guessing you're after precise/reactive steering. If this is true, the Moog HD problem solver parts can be had for about $175 (pitman, idler, and idler bracket) if you shop around. You're already having the front end aligned so if yours show any movement, it's an easy call at this point. (Not that changing these parts necessarily requires realignment.)

That said, if your pursuit is precise/reactive steering, you'll also be looking into your steering box, the upper intermediate shaft (specifically rotational play in the the telescoping spline), and the tilt wheel globe joint. Those plus the pitman are in my experience the most common causes of steering play in these trucks with mileage.

 

[MaxComp88B]

You see photos of broken pitmans on the internet, but I have a feeling their use/abuse case is different than mine and yours.

They are a wear item that wears even faster harder on lifted trucks where the tie rods are inclined, putting rotational forces on the center link. Ultimately that wear results in vague steering and lane wandering when the pitman is sloppy and inability to hold toe in/out once the center link rotation is excessive.

If you're going through the trouble to weld in a idler support brace, I'm guessing you're after precise/reactive steering. If this is true, the Moog HD problem solver parts can be had for about $175 (pitman, idler, and idler bracket) if you shop around. You're already having the front end aligned so if yours show any movement, it's an easy call at this point. (Not that changing these parts necessarily requires realignment.)

That said, if your pursuit is precise/reactive steering, you'll also be looking into your steering box, the upper intermediate shaft (specifically rotational play in the the telescoping spline), and the tilt wheel globe joint. Those plus the pitman are in my experience the most common causes of steering play in these trucks with mileage.

Great info man! I appreciate it!

 

[johnmyster]

Great info man! I appreciate it!

FWIW, my globe joint cost $0 to adjust using a T25 on a ratchet and a pair of vice grips. The upper intermediate shaft is $65 and took an hour. The steering box, also $0 to adjust if it isn't too far gone. You're debating on the pitman, and you're already doing the tie rods. Given tight ball joints and assuming the lower intermediate shaft u-joint is sound (they usually are) that covers the whole signal chain between you and the knuckles.

Folks want to rectify the steering on their various GMT800 vehicles, and while it could come from one place, it's more often several places depending on mileage and the attentiveness/scrutiny of the owner/prior owner. Accuracy of steering makes me less fatigued when pulling a heavy camper for several hours with screaming kids, other inconsiderate drivers, unfamiliar roads, keeping an eye on all the trucks mechanicals, etc. Tight steering will make it easier to stay where you want within your lane and keep the truck from wanting to follow road crown as much. As such, it's something I've gone after on my trucks.

I did my pitman arm last weekend, laying in my driveway using a borrowed puller and fork. It took two hours and the moog HD part was $60. I had to unbolt the idler bracket as a part of the process, so it would not have taken longer to also replace it. Given the low cost and relative ease of future replacement, you can almost use good parts and consider it a wear item. The boutique parts are 3-4x the cost and for me, not yet needed.

 

[wydopenLb7]

Definitely replace the pitman while you are in there. Mine snapped unexpectedly while pulling into a driveway. Was a total pain in the ass to get the truck off the road. Had to jack it up and strap the wheels over and over till I got it in a place I could work on it. Glad it didn't happen while I had the 40ft 5th wheel behind it. Truck is just leveled with 31's.

 

[1FastBrick]

Definitely replace the pitman while you are in there. Mine snapped unexpectedly while pulling into a driveway. Was a total pain in the ass to get the truck off the road. Had to jack it up and strap the wheels over and over till I got it in a place I could work on it. Glad it didn't happen while I had the 40ft 5th wheel behind it. Truck is just leveled with 31's.

A co-worker of mine purchased a used LBZ and had this issue 3 separate time's due the lift kit design. Even with the PISK kit installed, it would shear the stud on the idler or steering arm. It used a droped steering center link cross over. Was/ is a terrible design for a lift kit. He finally ditched it and went back to a stock height.

 

[MaxComp88B]

I have put in
PPE Tie rods
Kryptonite Pitman Arm
Dmax store upper control arms
Kryptonite sway bar end links
All I have left I want to do is add Kryptonite idler arm and idler arm support and frame gusset
Went to replace those the other day but the hole was torn up from 325k miles so I left it. Tightened it back down. I got a 3 year alignment from goodyear so I can align It whenever. I just need to add the idler arm stuff. Looking at a center link. What centerlink works with PPE Tie Rods and Kryptonite pitman and idler arm? I don't need a stupid expensive or big center link. I'm only replacing as the holes have become more oval like over time with 325k miles. I have looked at moog centerlink, PPE centerlink, Kryptonite and Cognito. Not wanting to spend 600 bucks just need one in better shape than mine now.

 

[1FastBrick]

PPE has a larger forged OE style replacement Centrelink.

2001-2010 GM Center Link OE-Style HD Forged 1.5” Dia Stock Taper

Center Link OE-Style HD Forged 1.5” Dia Stock Taper

ppepower.com

 

[Bdsankey]

PPE 1.5" stock replacement centerlink is the strongest OEM design centerlink that works with the parts you have purchased already.